DARTGAME
SuPeRcHaRgEd
From the video sounds like exhaust leak to me. Take a flash light and one of your dental mirrors to look around all the exhaust ports at the header flanges.
SM Head Install... forgetting anything?
- Thread starter DentalDart
- Start date
-
furrystump
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 13, 2004
- Messages
- 2,093
- Reaction score
- 1,693
I run graphite gasket from Flatout. Seals even my massaged exhaust manifolds. I have also reused them 3 times and they still don’t leak.
I held a hose up to the headers to help listen for sounds. The sound is definitely coming from below the middle header/exhaust areas. So I'll loosen and retighten the bolts later. I have some carb and cable adjustments to make today.
mopowers
Well-Known Member
What exhaust gaskets did you use again?
DARTGAME
SuPeRcHaRgEd
Justin, those header gaskets are on up side down from the picture, this will definitely cause a exhaust leak
@mopowers its just the metal looking gasket that came in the felpro gasket kit. I have my old gaskets as well. @DARTGAME they only go on one way? As they hook over the last stud in the headers. Maybe they could be on backwards, with the other side supposed to be facing the headers and one facing the machined face of the heads.
In this picture, the header gaskets are shown right side up. Yours are on upside down.
Ill take them off tomorrow and see. Dang I hate taking the header bolts out lol.
Metal gaskets rarely seal. Kim
Indeed. So far, I've found Remflex the best. Unfortunately, they are not reusable. I guess you caint have it all. lol
And even though you have heat sleeves on those plug wires, you'll want to get those OFF the headers, as they WILL burn the wires eventually. Probably sooner than you think.
doogievlg
Well-Known Member
I ran those headers for 10 years and they leaked from day one. Nice headers are a great investment.
“So far” I’ve found they are reusable, both header and collector gaskets “If” you only loosen the bolts just enough so you can wiggle (parallel, sliding action...no pulling) the headers or exhaust pipes to break them free from any sticking and then remove the bolts.
Definitely can’t just pull the bolts and pull the headers/exhaust as the Remflex can stick and then they aren’t usable like you say.
My driver side header always leaked shortly after replacement. The header is probably not flat. I put a remflex in about 6 years ago and it's still holding. Be careful when handling and installing as they are fragile.
Last edited:
Yes, the hooker headers suck, but I got them for free in the trunk of my car. I would love some nice tti headers, but those are $$, and my car isn't nice enough for them. Lol. Also, no, the faces of the headers are definitely not flat, but again... free.
If you cannot get it to seal with the gasket alone... get the RTV out. It ain't pretty... but it works.
mopowers
Well-Known Member
Not sure why you guys are suggesting the gasket is upside down. The shiny surface below his valve cover is the machined finish on the cylinder head, not the gasket. Plus, how can a SB exhaust gasket even be installed upside down? The bolts holes on the outer ports are offset.
Is there anyone here who's made a warped set of old headers seal with stock exhaust manifold gaskets? That's his problem. @DentalDart - It's time to invest in a decent set of gaskets. Percy's of Remflex gaskets will seal your non-flat flanged headers. Alternatively, you could always try some heat heat red rtv. I know a couple racers who only use rtv. Just let it setup for a day before firing it up.
Is there anyone here who's made a warped set of old headers seal with stock exhaust manifold gaskets? That's his problem. @DentalDart - It's time to invest in a decent set of gaskets. Percy's of Remflex gaskets will seal your non-flat flanged headers. Alternatively, you could always try some heat heat red rtv. I know a couple racers who only use rtv. Just let it setup for a day before firing it up.
@RustyRatRod i bought new pkugs, all black to be matching... well when I put the 90 plugs on them to go under the headers they didnt hold or look very good, so I out 2 old wires on them and bought some more black wires..
@74Scooter rtv all over the new heads where everyone can see it. Disaster  my other busdy keeps saying Mega Copper, I think that is like an RTV. question on timing since everythone is reading. Is it normal for timing to be changed when adding aluminum heads?
Rat Bastid
Dunamis Metron
If the flanges aren’t flat, take a saw or grinder and cut the flanges apart. Then you have the header flange in 3 pieces. That helps some but Remflex and one other gasket works.
I know.. sucks to have RTV on your new heads... but is sucks more to have to listen to them leak. Maybe try just adding where they are leaking the worst to minimize the mess?
For timing... are you saying the timing is now different on it's own with no other changes?
-or-
Are you asking if the timing might need to be changed? I'd say yes. Different chamber's & changes to compression ratio can surely necessitate some adjustment.
@74Scooter I figured timing would need adjusted after the head install. I'm not good at timing a car... Really, I'm not good at anything tuning related. It was at 16 initial and 36 all in. I watched a YouTube video that 318willrun posted on timing. I tried to do it, but I got confused once my car ended up getting to like 22 initial timing with the vacuum unhooked. That seems really high to me. I put it at 17 initial and left it, but I don't know if it is right.
Heres the leak at the headers...
36 is about the maximum I'd go all in(maximum mechanical advance).... wrekin a motor with detonation would suck. Keep your ears open for the tell tales. Too much initial can make it hard to start. That said... I've run more according to the timing mark. Without degreeing the cam yourself.. hard to know how accurate the mark is. How's it run 16 init and 36 all in?
-
