SM Head Install... forgetting anything?

-
@74Scooter I didnt degree the cam myself... Tony did most of the work while explaining to me what he was doing. Right now it runs pretty dang good considering I get no traction when I slam on the gas from a stop and still have the shitty 2nd-3rd shift.
 
@74Scooter I didnt degree the cam myself... Tony did most of the work while explaining to me what he was doing. Right now it runs pretty dang good considering I get no traction when I slam on the gas from a stop and still have the shitty 2nd-3rd shift.

Let it be then, get to work on trans and gears.

I'm doing mine opposite order of yours. Have my new heads but the transmission started bleeding and I dropped it off at the transmission shop earlier this week. 727 will come out and be rebuilt and reinstalled with a new converter to match my cam and rear gear.
 
“So far” I’ve found they are reusable, both header and collector gaskets “If” you only loosen the bolts just enough so you can wiggle (parallel, sliding action...no pulling) the headers or exhaust pipes to break them free from any sticking and then remove the bolts.
Definitely can’t just pull the bolts and pull the headers/exhaust as the Remflex can stick and then they aren’t usable like you say.
I've tried that. Several times now. My experience is half the gasket sticks to one side and the other half to the other side. I wonder if painting them with a high heat paint would help?
 
I've tried that. Several times now. My experience is half the gasket sticks to one side and the other half to the other side. I wonder if painting them with a high heat paint would help?


I was going to try a thin (and by thin I mean real THIN) coat of anti seize on both sides of the gasket. I just haven’t tried it yet.
 
New gaskets on the drivers side with some copper gasket maker on them; if these leak, I'll get some Remflex gaskets.

20220326_145202.jpg


20220326_153806.jpg
 
@4spdragtop headers are on the list...the same list that has converter, stroker kit, and body/paint... I wish I could buy everything all at once (money isnt an issue) but I am saving to buy a dental practice in the next 6 months so I have to have at least 5-10% of the purchase price in savings to get financed...
 
I hope I didnt sound like a downer, you even said they were "junk", and I would hate an exhaust leak to cover up another possible issue after all the time, effort and $$ invested.
I fully understand. :thumbsup:
Good luck on the purchase!
@4spdragtop headers are on the list...the same list that has converter, stroker kit, and body/paint... I wish I could buy everything all at once (money isnt an issue) but I am saving to buy a dental practice in the next 6 months so I have to have at least 5-10% of the purchase price in savings to get financed...
 
@mopowers my coupler is always talk of the town, like my mismatched spark plug wires... I have never messed with the coupler. The steering column, coupler, and ps are on the list as well. A borgenson at some point because they are so much more compact.
 
Close nuff.. ignore the circles and arrows. The seal and cover should be on like the photo to keep crud off the shoes inside the coupler.

;topic=18701.png
 
Here's a diagram of what I'm talking about (below). Regardless of the the seal/seal cover, those shoes need to be all of the way into the coupler body.

coupler-jpg.jpg
 
Those covers are always a pain to keep sealed to the box. I actually bought an old "problem saver" clip that helps solve that problem and keeps the cover sealed to the coupler.
Good eye on spotting that!
Here's a diagram of what I'm talking about (below). Regardless of the the seal/seal cover, those shoes need to be all of the way into the coupler body.

View attachment 1715896215
 
What's happened is, someone has "serviced" or disassembled the coupler for "some" reason in the past and left the small roll pin out that keeps the shoes from coming all the way out. You can see "dowel pin hole" in that diagram above.
 
What I see, is the coupler is slid down, likely the role pin is below where it should be, or not even there. That coupler is way too far down.
 
Yes. Those are the coupler shoes and they are supposed to be in the coupler body FULLY. That's dangerous. You really should pay more attention. No offense.

No offense taken but the coupler has looked like that since I have owned it for almost 3 years. Not saying that is right just how it has been. I will work on trying to get those shoes all the way in the coupler body.

Per your roll pin comment, all the holes line up there just isn't anything that sticks in the middle of it. I will also look for something to put in there to hold it all in place.
 
-
Back
Top