Tuning for WOT

Couple thoughts.
Torque Converter Stall: The number varies with how they are built and the torque applied. At low rpm and torque the car may start to move at idle or just above. Under high torque is when something close to the advertized stall speed comes into play. If you want to check the brake torque once, as a reference, get the number and your done. I don't see the heat issue for that but maybe that depends on the converter. A higher torque engine should stall the same converter at a slighterl lower rpm.

Traction:
Is the car's nose still high at rest?
For traction the car's suspension must be able to move up.
Its a whole system approach. I think the anti-squat in the leaf spring angle is important. That's what I'm doing for street and autocross, and its helped when using stiff springs. But I've seen cars lifted on the pinion snubber set just touching with the factory leaves & rear spring clamos moved to the front. The nose rises as does the rear, the body is almost level as it comes off the line. That's with slicks but the concept is important. The downward force on the rear tire depends on lifting weight.