slant 6 engine questions

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trudysduster

trudysduster

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I have 2 questions for the slant 6.
1. is there supposed to be a crank bolt to hold the crankshaft pullies on. I pulled the pulley off today and the timing cover to check the timing chain for slack and there wasnt a bolt as there is on my 440. I didnt find a bolt on my 74 Dart Sport or on my 66 Valiant either but there are threads there. Can someone educate me on this.
2. How much slack is normal on this timing chain. I have not heard this engine run so I dont know what it ran like but I am getting ready to drop it in one of the cars so I am doing the bearings and all the little things to be sure it is right.
 
Crank bolt was not used often, maybe only on trucks and a fe car motors....? many didnt have it. Chain should show less than 1/4" deflection but your in there, may as well change it as they are pretty cheap.
 
pishta said:
Crank bolt was not used often, maybe only on trucks and a fe car motors....? many didnt have it. Chain should show less than 1/4" deflection but your in there, may as well change it as they are pretty cheap.
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Yeah, that is not what I have on the chain. Looking at the engine one side is tight and the other side probably has 1" slack. I thought maybe 1/2" max would be ok but not 1".what do I do about the crank pulley. drive it on with a socket. what keeps it on the end of the crank. seems kind dangerous to me.
 
trudysduster said:
Yeah, that is not what I have on the chain. Looking at the engine one side is tight and the other side probably has 1" slack. I thought maybe 1/2" max would be ok but not 1".what do I do about the crank pulley. drive it on with a socket. what keeps it on the end of the crank. seems kind dangerous to me.
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It's not, I promise. Millions came with no bolt. In fact, to date, I've never seen one with a bolt and that includes all the trucks I've ever seen with slant sixes. I've seen where people say some came with them and I'm sure they did, but I've never seen one. Also, I've never seen one sling the balancer off, hub and all.

Now, if you were going for a performance build, you might consider putting one in. Since all of the slant 6 cranks were threaded, that's certainly an option.
 
RustyRatRod said:
It's not, I promise. Millions came with no bolt. In fact, to date, I've never seen one with a bolt and that includes all the trucks I've ever seen with slant sixes. I've seen where people say some came with them and I'm sure they did, but I've never seen one. Also, I've never seen one sling the balancer off, hub and all.

Now, if you were going for a performance build, you might consider putting one in. Since all of the slant 6 cranks were threaded, that's certainly an option.
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What do I do, tap it on with a impact socket and leave it.
 
I always wondered why they didn't put one in from the factory.
I guess the buck that they saved on one bolt for each engine adds up.
Maybe it was because they were a low R.P.M. engine?
 
Dartnut said:
I always wondered why they didn't put one in from the factory.
I guess the buck that they saved on one bolt for each engine adds up.
Maybe it was because they were a low R.P.M. engine?
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I think that's probably a fair assessment.
 
Use a standard LA bolt to torque it on and then keep it in there. I think they were pressed on with a ram or jack screw drive on the engine line. IIRC some early Chevy SB motor balancers were not bolted on either.
 
pishta said:
Use a standard LA bolt to torque it on and then keep it in there. I think they were pressed on with a ram or jack screw drive on the engine line. IIRC some early Chevy SB motor balancers were not bolted on either.
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It seems like the best way to do it. I know my 440 has one so I am not familiar with the slant 6 yet but I am learning. What would be the best timing chain kit to put on this engine.
 
trudysduster said:
It seems like the best way to do it. I know my 440 has one so I am not familiar with the slant 6 yet but I am learning. What would be the best timing chain kit to put on this engine.
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I can't remember which, but one of them is too short. But one fits. It's either the big or small block, I just caint remember.
 
I borrowed "The Bolt" from Layson's to reinstall my pully. Hammering on the end of the crankshaft didn't seem right even for a bone head like me.
 
Duggie said:
I borrowed "The Bolt" from Layson's to reinstall my pully. Hammering on the end of the crankshaft didn't seem right even for a bone head like me.
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Yeah, I am going to buy a couple bolts tomorrow to put in there.
 
I have two slant engines on the stand at the moment, both were untouched from the factory before I got my grimy paws on them, and both have the bolts. However, both are truck engines which I am told is a factor for bolt or no bolt. YMMV. If you want a bolt, any really good hardware store or fastener place will have a bolt for you, it's 3/4 fine thread. If you want to know the length let me know, I'll dig out one of my spares and get a measurement. I used a Rollmaster timing chain on the slant for my Valiant, I thought it was worth the extra money.
 
Having that bolt in the front of the crankshaft makes it easy to put a wrench on it and turn the engine over when setting valve lash, if you are doing that without the engine running, which is how I like to do that.
 
It sounds like you have it apart to a point you can see the chain? Youre crazy if you don't change it. Youre there. Most I've seen,had nylon teeth on the cam gear and I've seen them shear on any engine equipped that way, some worse than others. If you don't it'll come back to bite you, you'' set yourself up for a "redo". for what itll cost you its cheap insurance at a minimum.
 
you can pull the plugs and turn that motor over just by pulling on the belts. I found a bolt that fits but it looks too long the depth is about 2" and it is a 3/4-18 bolt that has a 1 1/4 hex. So youll probably be able to use this with its thick washer or get on slightly shorter.
 
pishta said:
you can pull the plugs and turn that motor over just by pulling on the belts. I found a bolt that fits but it looks too long the depth is about 2" and it is a 3/4-18 bolt that has a 1 1/4 hex. So youll probably be able to use this with its thick washer or get on slightly shorter.
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yeah I am going to get a couple for the 3 slants I have. Thanks
 
volaredon said:
It sounds like you have it apart to a point you can see the chain? Youre crazy if you don't change it. Youre there. Most I've seen,had nylon teeth on the cam gear and I've seen them shear on any engine equipped that way, some worse than others. If you don't it'll come back to bite you, you'' set yourself up for a "redo". for what itll cost you its cheap insurance at a minimum.
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its getting replaced. I just ordered a Cloyes timing chain kit. I have always had good luck with that brand. The Rollmaster is a little too rich for what I need.
 
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trudysduster said:
its getting replaced. I just ordered a Cloyes timing chain kit. I have always had good luck with that brand. The Rollmaster is a little too rich for what I need.
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Quality metal sprockets & a std. link-type chain did My Slanty perfectly for tens of thousands of miles & almost constant beatings and over-revving, it is still in great shape, on the eng stand waiting for Me to get busy with v3.0 of course change it. No crank bolt either, not needed, sprocket & dampner are press-fit tight. My engine saw the tach needle over 7K during some burnouts for show, & stayed planted firmly at 6k, You'll be fine...btw, the sprocket & dampner hub are supposed to be heated before pressing on......NO HAMMERS!
 
trudysduster said:
What do I do, tap it on with a impact socket and leave it.
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I went to hard ware store and bought a long bolt with a nut and a few washer and pressed it on like that
and used a short one to A block the hole and is nice to turn over the engine with a wrench
 
I think the approach 67belevdere/225 used is best, and probably what I did. Instead of just using a bolt to force the damper on, use a longer bolt with a nut (if radiator is out to allow room). Screw the bolt in, like a stud, then tighten the nut to push the damper on. A damper install kit I have is like that, but also has a roller thrust washer so the forcing nut doesn't drag on the crank snout. I just checked and it includes a 3/4-16 stud which appears a fine thread (post 17 says 3/4-18, typo?). I bought it later (Amazon) for my 2002 3.8L engine. That factory bolt (assume) was broken off in the crank hole about 5 threads deep, but I was able to center drill and cut it out with a tap (one of the few times that trick succeeded). By using a nut, you aren't both pulling and twisting the bolt to risk snapping it, though unlikely the 3/4" bolt would fail, and buy Grade 8 (local Ace Hardware).

If you ever plan an AC compressor (or other accessory), now is the time to find the special AC pulley which bolts to the inner side of the damper-pulley. It has a large center hole to clear the snout of the timing cover. It looks like there isn't room for it, but should just barely avoid scraping the timing cover if all your dimensions are perfect and you don't push the damper on too far (possible? might butt tight against the timing chain sprocket).
 
trudysduster said:
its getting replaced. I just ordered a Cloyes timing chain kit. I have always had good luck with that brand. The Rollmaster is a little too rich for what I need.
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I think the Cloyes is perfect. On a totally stock engine, it will be just fine.
 
trudysduster said:
its getting replaced. I just ordered a Cloyes timing chain kit. I have always had good luck with that brand. The Rollmaster is a little too rich for what I need.
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The B/RB bolt is the right one to use if You want to leave one in, the A one is too long unless You've added something to the dampner face.
Honestly all this talk of bolts & washers for the $ spent is foolish, Harbor Freight & others offer installers so reasonably priced for the hobbyist, it makes no sense to not use the proper tool.
 
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