slant 6 engine questions

I think the approach 67belevdere/225 used is best, and probably what I did. Instead of just using a bolt to force the damper on, use a longer bolt with a nut (if radiator is out to allow room). Screw the bolt in, like a stud, then tighten the nut to push the damper on. A damper install kit I have is like that, but also has a roller thrust washer so the forcing nut doesn't drag on the crank snout. I just checked and it includes a 3/4-16 stud which appears a fine thread (post 17 says 3/4-18, typo?). I bought it later (Amazon) for my 2002 3.8L engine. That factory bolt (assume) was broken off in the crank hole about 5 threads deep, but I was able to center drill and cut it out with a tap (one of the few times that trick succeeded). By using a nut, you aren't both pulling and twisting the bolt to risk snapping it, though unlikely the 3/4" bolt would fail, and buy Grade 8 (local Ace Hardware).

If you ever plan an AC compressor (or other accessory), now is the time to find the special AC pulley which bolts to the inner side of the damper-pulley. It has a large center hole to clear the snout of the timing cover. It looks like there isn't room for it, but should just barely avoid scraping the timing cover if all your dimensions are perfect and you don't push the damper on too far (possible? might butt tight against the timing chain sprocket).