Air Gap intake back form media blast.. clear.. paint or run as-is?

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Have it powder coated silver or what ever color you want. Clear will turn yellow real fast. I cleared mine the new engine will get aluminum ceramic paint or powder coat. No more clear for me.

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I used Arvoe brand engine paint. Painted my aluminum intake satin aluminum color. Holds up better than bare.
 
Thanks all for the input!

Reading the responses I'm leaning toward painting it aluminum. Cost effective and I can do it myself.
 
If you want to keep the silver color either powdercoat it silver or have it vapor blasted. Here is my tunnel ram after vapor blasting. Granted it is NOS... but it wont stain easily after vapor blasting .
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One more great option you can have it polished.it's much easier to clean and with a little aluminum polish and elbow grease , sexy.

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For those who painted.. did you primer first or shoot directly to bare metal?
 
I cleaned the manifold with a degreaser ( Varsol) . Then I cleaned it again with thinners. Primed with a grey primer then used the Duplicolor Metallic . 4 years and 7000 miles later and it still looks great!
 
Thanks for the mentions!!
Unless it's outgassed first, just painting or clearing a used intake will hide The Ugly for awhile but all the embedded impurities, old fuel stains and oil will return after some heat cycles ... and now will be permanently trapped and on full display on your engine.
 
Had the Edelbrock "endura shine" coating removed as previous owner ruined it. It's bare now and seems like it would suck up any oil like a sponge without a coating of some sort. What say ye.. paint it aluminum color, clear satin or run it as-is?

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For durability, clear powder coat. Next would be a clear Ceramacoat. Keep the as cast look as much as possible.
 
Whatever you decide @CudaChick1968 can give you ideas as to what makes aluminum resist the elements (as in longevity) from a professional standpoint.
Aluminium gets a thin oxidation layer on it almost immediately that prevents further deterioration. This also prevents glue products adhereing well. There is a surface treatment for glueing from I think West Systems. Paul Lamar of rotaryeng.net recommended it. He is gone now and I am not sure what his son is doing with that site.
 
Aluminium gets a thin oxidation layer on it almost immediately that prevents further deterioration. This also prevents glue products adhereing well. There is a surface treatment for glueing from I think West Systems. Paul Lamar of rotaryeng.net recommended it. He is gone now and I am not sure what his son is doing with that site.
Yep, I'm aware of the oxidation on aluminum. I've owned Harleys before they chromed everything from the factory. What a royal p.i.a.
 
I paint all my motors including cast iron intakes together. Final cleaning before painting is done with acetone and I had never had a peal. I also use acetone for gasket installs. Do not remember which heat paint(clear) I used for my one aluminum intake, but I recall you had to bake it in an oven of some sort (My wife was pissed at me for some time). LOL.... It looked good for many years, but now showing its age (34 years) as the rest of the motor. Also no pealing.
 
I paint all my motors including cast iron intakes together. Final cleaning before painting is done with acetone and I had never had a peal. I also use acetone for gasket installs. Do not remember which heat paint(clear) I used for my one aluminum intake, but I recall you had to bake it in an oven of some sort (My wife was pissed at me for some time). LOL.... It looked good for many years, but now showing its age (34 years) as the rest of the motor. Also no pealing.
I don't have the guts to use the oven to cure paint, but I do use the gas grill. I will use the oven on low to cook the oil out of my bowling ball when she isn't around.
 
Thanks for all the info folks.. I ended up hitting it with a rattle can... hope it holds up ok.

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Yep, I'm aware of the oxidation on aluminum. I've owned Harleys before they chromed everything from the factory. What a royal p.i.a.
On a bike, down here anyhow, once you Start polishing aluminum, you Don't Stop polishing Aluminum
 
Yep, for certain
Mag wheels were the same. That is why they make a special cleaner, so not to remove the coating that protects the finish. I no longer use those cleaners, because I clean them with just dish soap and water every 2 to 4 weeks. The trick is, not to let them, including intakes, become saturated in filth. Clean often!!!!
 
I painted my slant six with POR15 Chrysler blue and manifold high heat paint. Brushed both on and they look great.

Didn't brush on the valve cover though. Even though the brush marks mostly disappear, I didn't think they would disappear enough on a smooth surface that is front and center.
 
I painted my slant six with POR15 Chrysler blue and manifold high heat paint. Brushed both on and they look great.

Didn't brush on the valve cover though. Even though the brush marks mostly disappear, I didn't think they would disappear enough on a smooth surface that is front and center.
I'm not sure what would happen if you could keep the paint warm enough to flow, before the brush marks lay down, or use thinner. That's how we brushed metal trim , back in the day... I'd just Send it, to CudaChick1968!
 
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