A833 no shift
1964 Valiant w/225, originally 3 on-the-tree. Now 1965 Barracuda A833 B&T trans swapped in.
I originally thought my swap meet 65 trans was the easiest conversion because I wouldn't have to mess with the driveshaft and 7-1/4. It took a couple years to collect all the parts like the /6 BH, floor hump, etc.
I came across a Hurst shifter at Carlisle in 2020 and the seller didn't know what it was from. I recognized it as possibly the special early "A" factory shifter because the shift tower angles forward to clear the floor cutout and seat so I bought it. I tried a later Hurst shifter from my stash and it did indeed clash with the floor cutout. My "new" Carlisle shifter fits perfectly so I took it apart, cleaned and reassembled it. The internals are different from the later ones due to the forward shift bias.
I rebuilt the bargain swap meet trans (first time) using a Brewer kit and after having to replace the main shaft, improved wider 1-2 shift fork, input bearing retainer, etc. ended up with more money in it than originally planned but oh well. It seemed to shift through the gears ok when it was laying on the floor in a big heavy lump.
The bellhousing run out checked out to be 0.0075 which is just within the FSM number of .008. I also replaced the pilot bushing. I had the 225 out for some minor issues and installed it all as a single unit.
Should be ok with factory parts right?
No, if the engine is running in neutral, and then try to engage any gear I cannot get it to go. Like something is blocked. I can barely get it in reverse with the engine running but there is a crunch.
With the engine OFF, I can shift through all 4 gears pretty easily.
I probably drove it a total of 15 miles always downshifting into first before totally stopping at a light or stop sign. Otherwise I have to turn engine off, engage 1st, and restart with clutch in. It shifts through the gears when driving but not very smoothly.
I checked the clutch departure through the inspection opening with feeler gages and it's about .05 inches.
I used the Joe Gibbs GL4 gear oil. I asked Jamie Passon at Carlisle and he said to use gear oil. FSM says to use ATF and that would be a quick change. Maybe first thing to try.
More info:
For the last year or so before the swap, it was getting extremely difficult to shift the old 3 speed. Really hard. Partially due to the clunky column shift. I drove the 320 miles to Carlisle with the 3 speed and had similar issues. I had put the floor hump, new carpeting and "new" bucket seats in but elected to stay with the old trans right up to crunch time before the trip. (Just ran out of time even with a couple 17 hr days.) This leads me to believe that it may be clutch or linkage related.
One deviation from stock is I installed a new 10" clutch when I got the car running 5 yrs ago just in case I went turbo. Other than that it's pretty much factory parts.
Unless I come up with something, I have no problem going back to a 9-1/4 clutch.
Getting close to cruise time and I want to move on from this.
Suggestions?
1964 Valiant w/225, originally 3 on-the-tree. Now 1965 Barracuda A833 B&T trans swapped in.
I originally thought my swap meet 65 trans was the easiest conversion because I wouldn't have to mess with the driveshaft and 7-1/4. It took a couple years to collect all the parts like the /6 BH, floor hump, etc.
I came across a Hurst shifter at Carlisle in 2020 and the seller didn't know what it was from. I recognized it as possibly the special early "A" factory shifter because the shift tower angles forward to clear the floor cutout and seat so I bought it. I tried a later Hurst shifter from my stash and it did indeed clash with the floor cutout. My "new" Carlisle shifter fits perfectly so I took it apart, cleaned and reassembled it. The internals are different from the later ones due to the forward shift bias.
I rebuilt the bargain swap meet trans (first time) using a Brewer kit and after having to replace the main shaft, improved wider 1-2 shift fork, input bearing retainer, etc. ended up with more money in it than originally planned but oh well. It seemed to shift through the gears ok when it was laying on the floor in a big heavy lump.
The bellhousing run out checked out to be 0.0075 which is just within the FSM number of .008. I also replaced the pilot bushing. I had the 225 out for some minor issues and installed it all as a single unit.
Should be ok with factory parts right?
No, if the engine is running in neutral, and then try to engage any gear I cannot get it to go. Like something is blocked. I can barely get it in reverse with the engine running but there is a crunch.
With the engine OFF, I can shift through all 4 gears pretty easily.
I probably drove it a total of 15 miles always downshifting into first before totally stopping at a light or stop sign. Otherwise I have to turn engine off, engage 1st, and restart with clutch in. It shifts through the gears when driving but not very smoothly.
I checked the clutch departure through the inspection opening with feeler gages and it's about .05 inches.
I used the Joe Gibbs GL4 gear oil. I asked Jamie Passon at Carlisle and he said to use gear oil. FSM says to use ATF and that would be a quick change. Maybe first thing to try.
More info:
For the last year or so before the swap, it was getting extremely difficult to shift the old 3 speed. Really hard. Partially due to the clunky column shift. I drove the 320 miles to Carlisle with the 3 speed and had similar issues. I had put the floor hump, new carpeting and "new" bucket seats in but elected to stay with the old trans right up to crunch time before the trip. (Just ran out of time even with a couple 17 hr days.) This leads me to believe that it may be clutch or linkage related.
One deviation from stock is I installed a new 10" clutch when I got the car running 5 yrs ago just in case I went turbo. Other than that it's pretty much factory parts.
Unless I come up with something, I have no problem going back to a 9-1/4 clutch.
Getting close to cruise time and I want to move on from this.
Suggestions?
