Braided SS vs. Hard Line

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adamm

adamm

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Forgive my lack of knowledge, but are there any concerns with forgoing the hard line from the rear distribution block on the axle to the driver side bracket, and just installing a one piece stainless steel braided line directly to the caliper instead?

I'm putting all new brake lines into my 74 dart sport, with a strange S60, Wilwood disc brakes in the rear. It's approximately 14 in from the distribution block to the caliper fitting, and I'm wondering if it's okay to just put only a stainless steel braided brake line in.

Secondly, could I also do this from the rear distribution block to the passenger side caliper as well, where the total length is around 40 in?

I am using the "V" style brake distribution block that is a factory replacement from Dr diff.

I've read a few examples on this site where individuals skip the hard lines, however, they're always seems to be some mixed opinions on it and the threads were a bit older that I found.

Any input is very much appreciated.
 
My opinion only......
Any time you can replace rubber (which is what most braided stainless line is) with hard line, I do it! I'm in the process of changing 15ft of braided rubber fuel line that leaks like a sieve with hard line.
IF you decide to use flexible line, you MUST use teflon line for brakes. And all the special connectors that teflon requires, along with specialized assembly techniques.
 
33IMP said:
My opinion only......
Any time you can replace rubber (which is what most braided stainless line is) with hard line, I do it! I'm in the process of changing 15ft of braided rubber fuel line that leaks like a sieve with hard line.
IF you decide to use flexible line, you MUST use teflon line for brakes. And all the special connectors that teflon requires, along with specialized assembly techniques.
Click to expand...

Thank you for your thoughts! I will have to research more on teflon lines as I'm not familiar.

One of the biggest concerns I've read is that the braided lines allow for some expansion, creating a softer pedal and more travel before the brakes engage compared to hard lines.

I have also read some product info on braided lines from manufacturers that claim to have resolved the expansion problem. I don't have the knowledge, unfortunately, to assess such a claim, and I appreciate the feedback.

I have access to some SS braided brake lines on the cheap, and if feasible (safe), thought it may be worth the convenience to replace the short hard line on the drivers side rear at least.
 
It's the RUBBER stainless lines that expand, and of course give a spongie pedal. That's why you MUST use teflon, it doesn't expand under pressure.
If the lines you have access to have normal A/N fittings, they are likely rubber, and I would NOT use them.
You can usually tell if rubber or teflon line . The rubber is fairly flexible and can be used in a fairly tight bend. Teflon is stiffer (and lasts ten times longer) and can't be bent as tight.
Edit: you really want "on the cheap" brake parts on your car?
 
33IMP said:
It's the RUBBER stainless lines that expand, and of course give a spongie pedal. That's why you MUST use teflon, it doesn't expand under pressure.
If the lines you have access to have normal A/N fittings, they are likely rubber, and I would NOT use them.
You can usually tell if rubber or teflon line . The rubber is fairly flexible and can be used in a fairly tight bend. Teflon is stiffer (and lasts ten times longer) and can't be bent as tight.
Edit: you really want "on the cheap" brake parts on your car?
Click to expand...

Thank you again! I get ya, PTFE... haha, I didn't realize the "T" stood for teflon.

"on the cheap" means I have access to discounted QUALITY products, specifically some Russel PTFE 308 SS Braided hose. The parts are by no means cheap in quality, just a heck of a price cut. Sorry for the confusion there, I should have used better wording.

This is an all new install, as the car was stripped to it's shell and underwent a full restore. Finally at the stage of the brake system. I have a full Wilwood disc kit front/back, MC, and prop. I do have nicopp and will be making my own lines. Just was curious on the short 14" section on the rear.
 
I have no problem with it if you want to use heavily discounted quality ptfe/teflon.
When I did the nine inch under my foreign car I had to get a special teflon line made to mate the nine inch brake tee to the foreign car hardline. I retained the hardline from the tee to the calipers however.
 
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In general, with brakes, use flexible line only where neccessary.
-3 has less expansion under pressure (than -4) but that's mostly a concern for road racing and otehrs who want maximum brake feel.

I have had -3 brake line fail. Happened just at the end of driving down the east coast to Pensacola. Fortunately that's a location where its easy to have new AN lines made for you.
I do not know if the failure was due to the crimp, or slightly (1/2") too short creating a too tight of a radius, or slight twist when I installed it. All of the above are reasonably possibilities.
 
adamm said:
One of the biggest concerns I've read is that the braided lines allow for some expansion, creating a softer pedal and more travel before the brakes engage compared to hard lines.
Click to expand...
That is exactly what happens. We used to try that with Dune Buggy (Volkswagon) brakes and found that you lose pedal because of the stretch.... For brakes on the road I would never use anything other than what was done from the factory for fear of the impending **** storm if you hurt someone. Just my opinion, and I am not referring to DOT approved systems like Wildwood etc.
 
A small data point. A flex brake line in my 1996 Plymouth developed a leak. It had been rubbing against the aluminum engine cradle which wore thru the stainless weave, then the inner liner swelled and burst like a blood vessel aneurism. The plastic liner appeared perhaps light blue but could have been Teflon. It was in a location very hard to see, so took a while to figure out where the leak was, first thinking at the ABS block where the brake fluid flowed down to. In modern cars, they put a flex section below the Master Cylinder (MC) about 16" long, I presume to limit flexing the steel tubes as the car body slightly moves, though seems a strange need to me. I think they coiled the factory tubes at the MC in our cars for the same reason, unless it was to provide extra tubing for failures when replacing the MC, but doubt they would be so thoughtful.
 
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