A833 no shift

>Put it in second gear, then start the car with the pedal depressed.
If the car creeps, the disc is dragging
If it is hard to pull the stick back into neutral, same answer.
>With engine running, clutch depressed, try shifting into reverse.
If it grinds, the cluster is spinning. Wait 5 seconds and try again; if still grinds, same answer.
>With the engine running, depress the clutch and put some pressure on the stick as if to select Fourth gear; then shut the engine off. If it snicks into gear just as the engine is coming to a stop, the disc has been spinning.
> with the engine slow idling, get some guys to push you along at about 3.5 mph, then depress the clutch and try putting it into first gear. If it pops right in, the M/S is now turning at the right speed to synchronize with a spinning input gear.

For a spinning disc/input gear/cluster;
here are some possibilities;
> not enough Clutch departure; I recommend .080 or
> the disc is bent with respect to the hub, or it is wavy, or the PP finger heights are not all at the same height, or
> as mentioned the pilot bushing is tight, or
> you just have the wrong parts installed as to fork-length or Z-bar ratio or the Z-bar is not installed in the right plains. As to this last one, the Z-bar tube must be at ~90* to the center-line of the vehicle in plan view (from the top), and parallel to the ground when viewed from the front or rear. If it is not, it will lose ratio.
>Furthermore;
the fork-pushrod from the Z-bar to the Fork, must be about parallel to the center-line of the vehicle, and the angle going to the Z-bar should be approximately 90* to the fork.
>at rest, the fork must be close to the front of the window, and must Not hit the back of it with the pedal depressed. To change any of this, while all the parts appear to be correct, the fork pivot would need to be changed.
>The clutch-end Z-bar arm, should be traveling from just forward of plumb to just rearward of plumb.
> the Downrod coming from the pedals should be more or less centered in the firewall cutout, and at no time should it rub on the firewall.
> with the modified pedal-ratio, and the freeplay set to 1" or a lil less, it should only take about 70% pedal-travel to create adequate clutch departure.
Go get-um, lol

For what it's worth ;
all your geartrain bolts right into an Aluminum F-body box. The only hitch is the 5.125 retainer, and bigger input bearing.. But that can be solved. I weighed my long-tail but forget how light it was. I'll guess 85 pounds with alloy tail and sidecover.

EDIT:
transferred in from post #24
>if the transmission mounting face is not parallel to the face of the flywheel, then the centerline of the trans will not be on the same centerline as the crank. This will cause the clutch departure to be different at various locations. Therefore you may measure it as adequate in one place, whereas it may not be so, in all places.

>The Z-bar has to be immobilized from moving transversely. There is supposed to be a wire-clip on one end, to engage the nylon bushing halves and positively locate the tube, on the bushing, on the ball. IIRC it is on the outboard end. You can see one of the holes in the pic you posted. just "forward" of the "tear"in the tube.
If the Z-bar is allowed to shift sideways, the ratio will be reduced, and take departure with it. However, when it shifts, the downrod will eventually stop it by rubbing on the edge of the hole in the firewall. When it rubs it makes a peculiar noise, thus signalling you that something is wrong.