71 Duster 340 carb issues? Maybe

Stopped and idling;
>If it is running out of fuel , and the fuel level started out close to correct, it will give lots of warning. As it goes lean the idle speed will go up a lil, level off then rapidly slow until it sputters to a stall.
>When an engine begins to flood, at an idle, it rapidly slows down and struggles then stalls sometimes puking a fuel cloud up thru the carb backwards.
>If it just flat quits, that is much more likely to be an electrical issue.
>If the engine is overheating, because the ring gaps are too tight, the engine, from an idle will just slow down until it quits without any drama. If you attempt a restart right away, it will crank slowly if at all. If you leave it cool for twenty minutes or so, it may crank normally and fire right up, unless it has cooked the gas out of the carb.
>If your fully warmed up engine is putting steam into the tailpipes on a normal-humidity day, with a fully warmed up exhaust system, this could be bad news. If you are simultaneously loosing coolant with no signs of leakage, it may be going into the combustion chambers. This will cool the chambers and affect carburation; as the chambers cool, she will want more fuel. Making steam take a huge amount of energy.
>Many times it happens that after you replace the fuel level sender and that little short jumper-hose, that you might have Not re-used the factory spring clamps. If you have used gear clamps, thinking they are better, that is a wrong thought. Gear clamps that small, have to be used in pairs, with the heads rotated about 180 degrees, so that the pump does not suck air from the gap that just using one clamp, creates.. That jumper needs 4 gear-clamps in total.
Good luck