/6 head bolt + ring and bearing suggestions please.

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DodgyDan

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Rebuilding a 225 slant out of a 79' for my Dart.

Curious which rings and main/rod bearings are suggested to pick up and use? This engine only needs to last me a few years then I'll swap to a SB but for now, I just wanna freshen her up a bit.

I don't want to shell out $$ for a hot tank and hone or rely on the shops in my area to determine which rings I should run really... not a lot of good machine shops in my area or for many miles that I'm aware of.

I have some flexhone dingleballs I believe are the correct size to hone it so my plan is to just swap out bearing shells and hone/re-ring and do the pushrods new and possibly lifters.

Any suggestions on which brand/coating to use for these cylinder walls is greatly appreciated!

Also in pursuit of some head bolts. I seem to be unable to locate a set of new/stock head bolts. Are they good to clean and reuse? I find ARP but 130$ for a set, maybe I will get them.
 
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Rebuilding a 225 slant out of a 79' for my Dart.

Curious which rings and main/rod bearings are suggested to pick up and use? This engine only needs to last me a few years then I'll swap to a SB but for now, I just wanna freshen her up a bit.

I don't want to shell out $$ for a hot tank and hone or rely on the shops in my area to determine which rings I should run really... not a lot of good machine shops in my area or for many miles that I'm aware of.

I have some flexhone dingleballs I believe are the correct size to hone it so my plan is to just swap out bearing shells and hone/re-ring and do the pushrods new and possibly lifters.

Any suggestions on which brand/coating to use for these cylinder walls is greatly appreciated!

Also in pursuit of some head bolts. I seem to be unable to locate a set of new/stock head bolts. Are they good to clean and reuse? I find ARP but 130$ for a set, maybe I will get them.
Head & rod bolts reusable, all Mopars were until 2.2's . For what You're doing, any name brand moly ring will work. Name brand shells where You can find these days. Felpro gaskets for everything but mannys, go Remflex.
 
^^^ What Killer6 said. I'm not sure where in OR you live, but if you have trouble finding parts try Tony's Auto Parts in Vancouver. They got me main bearings (Federal Mogul IIRC) and Hastings rings, and did so promptly.

Make sure your engine is really a 79. The main bearings are different between the earlier forged cranks and later cast cranks.

Take the head and rod bolts to a wire wheel and clean them up, then use thread chasers for all the threads on the bolts and block. If you are going to dingle ball hone the bores, I suggest giving the block a hot water soapy bath after honing and chasing threads - you don't want that crud inside the engine causing trouble. Blow it out to dry it off and give it a wipe down with Marvel Mystery Oil in the bores afterwards.

I'm not sure why you want to replace the lifters and pushrods? Unless you have something wrong they should be re-usable. Make sure to keep track of which lifter and pushrod came off which cam lobe. They need to go back in the same hole when you reassemble.

If you need a good machine shop try Somers Racing in Vancouver.
 
Don't know about Tony's parts but the rest of what was said above is good.
My engine was a basket case and missing parts, I had asked and members here helped me out with miscellaneous nuts and bolts Including head bolts.
I stuck all of those and pushrods etc into an ultrasonic cleaner. Came out like brand new.
 
When I rebuilt the OE slant motor in the 68 Barracuda I went in the opposite direction.
This OE motor had cylinder bores out of spec for taper and size, the mains and rod journals were at the upper limit but not scored.
I built this engine for drag racing and wanted a ‘loose’ motor.
I took it completely down, kept bearings-pistons-rings marked so they could all go back in the same hole.
Cut the head to get the compression up to 9.5
Put in new valve seals, 340 valve springs, re used the existing valves with a back cut, cleaned up the port bowls and had new seats cut in.
Power Ported the pistons, this involves drilling holes from the piston crown down behind the top ring groove, really helps the top ring seal.
Used a dingle berry hone to put the cross hatch back on the cylinders.
Had the cam reground, nothing real exotic, like 228 @ .050 .450 lift degreed in the cam to a 101 ICL.
Had the block and head hot tanked, which means I had new cam bearings put in. Also put in a new timing chain.
Put it all back together, and used a MSD ignition box with a MS3 Pro MPFI.
Used an oil pump off a Hydraulic lifer slant. Ran 15W 40 diesel engine oil in it.
Shifted that motor at 6500 rpm, ran great, not super fast was a 15 second car, the engine ran great, no oil smoke, never let me down. Also had long tube Hooker headers on it and the car was fully stripped out so it was not much more than a shell. Did bracket racing and I won races with that car-motor.
Built a new 275 hp slant and took that motor out, it’s in storage in the garage, it’s good for all that it is.
Personally for your build, I think the hot tank and getting the crud out of the inside and oil passages is money wisely spent. If your existing bearings are not scored, and are not far out of the top limit, re use them.
Same with the pistons - rings, do get the piston ring groves clean.
For new parts I would go with: cam bearings, valve seals, timing chain and a gasket set. Spend a little money on valve seats, raise the compression into the mid 9’s, and put a mild grind on the cam. And put the cross hatch back on the bores. Consider the hydraulic oil pump if the mains and rods are just beyond the high limit.
No guarantees for you, but this worked for me.
 
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Thanks for all the info you guys! I have learned, thus far, more about the 6 than I ever intended too in my life!

This engine has a pushrod that seems to have cracks in its cup.. not sure why or what would cause this. The engine sat for many years.. about 20. Then I changed the oil, rebuilt the carb and fired it up after cranking a while in hope to get oil pressure up.

I then ran the motor, for about 2 mins. It ran like poo for the entire time and smoked out the neighbourhood through its 1" destroyed exhaust.

When I took engine apart, there's so much grime that I'm not sure the oil passages were allowing oil to pass or the water passages to allow water to pass.

Seems like a pretty high mile engine, even the oil pump gasket was puking oil on it and it had no front crank seal to speak of.. and no bolt at all in the damper pulley.

~~ The reason I asked ~~

I have rebuilt several aluminium blocks. The rings are often piston specific. If they're not in round with the piston or manufactured for the specific piston, from what I've been told they're not correct and can cause massive issues being not exact fit for the piston.

This being cast block and chromo cylinder walls, I am happy to hear the robustness of them tolerates any manufacture ring and I hope the cast SB engines are that way also.

I just spent 220$ on 4 ring sets for a Honda engine, to make sure they're correct for the OEM pistons. :(

I also have my eyes on a 64 dart 4 door and a Plymouth Scamp that's been in a barn for a lot of years. I have a feeling I haven't seen the end of /6 for many years to come!
 
I have another question for you /6ers that have been in these motors a couple times.

The cam on this engine... seems to have a whoooole lot of horizontal slop.. I can slide it in and out of the block close to 3/8 an inch..

This seems very excessive. IS this normal for these motors?

I do not even see a retainer or how these cams are kept in their journals on these motors. Do they just kinda free float in there and have the ability to move following the chain on the crank being retained by the chain and lifters?

Thanks again for all the infos!

Enjoy the nice days!
 
I have another question for you /6ers that have been in these motors a couple times.

The cam on this engine... seems to have a whoooole lot of horizontal slop.. I can slide it in and out of the block close to 3/8 an inch..

This seems very excessive. IS this normal for these motors?

I do not even see a retainer or how these cams are kept in their journals on these motors. Do they just kinda free float in there and have the ability to move following the chain on the crank being retained by the chain and lifters?

Thanks again for all the infos!

Enjoy the nice days!
Likely the timing chain is worn. In use the oil pump drive gear and the distributor drive gear as well as the lifters limit fore and aft movement of the cam. Most racers add a cam button to the timing chain cover to positively keep the cam back.
The grime and sludge in the motor is from the engine oils that were in use in the 60’s and 70’s. Engine oil today is much better.
 
Stock head bolts are more than adequate. I'm funny about rings and bearings. I hawk ebay for older NOS parts. I much prefer the older stuff, because in my mind, metallurgy on everything else nowadays is cheapin out, so what makes bearings and rings any different? Might not be anything to it, but that's my personal preference.
 
When I took engine apart, there's so much grime that I'm not sure the oil passages were allowing oil to pass or the water passages to allow water to pass.

If you have this kind of grime, I would absolutely get the block and head hot tanked. It makes no sense to reassemble an engine with filthy internals, even if you're trying to be cost-conscious.
 
Thanks for all the info you guys! I have learned, thus far, more about the 6 than I ever intended too in my life!

This engine has a pushrod that seems to have cracks in its cup.. not sure why or what would cause this. The engine sat for many years.. about 20. Then I changed the oil, rebuilt the carb and fired it up after cranking a while in hope to get oil pressure up.

I then ran the motor, for about 2 mins. It ran like poo for the entire time and smoked out the neighbourhood through its 1" destroyed exhaust.

When I took engine apart, there's so much grime that I'm not sure the oil passages were allowing oil to pass or the water passages to allow water to pass.

Seems like a pretty high mile engine, even the oil pump gasket was puking oil on it and it had no front crank seal to speak of.. and no bolt at all in the damper pulley.

~~ The reason I asked ~~

I have rebuilt several aluminium blocks. The rings are often piston specific. If they're not in round with the piston or manufactured for the specific piston, from what I've been told they're not correct and can cause massive issues being not exact fit for the piston.

This being cast block and chromo cylinder walls, I am happy to hear the robustness of them tolerates any manufacture ring and I hope the cast SB engines are that way also.

I just spent 220$ on 4 ring sets for a Honda engine, to make sure they're correct for the OEM pistons. :(

I also have my eyes on a 64 dart 4 door and a Plymouth Scamp that's been in a barn for a lot of years. I have a feeling I haven't seen the end of /6 for many years to come!
No dampner bolt, the press-fit is enough. If You wish, You can install a B/RB crank bolt to turn it over, &/or torque it to the B spec & leave it in. Chances are the threads need de-rusted/cleaned/chased.
 
If you have this kind of grime, I would absolutely get the block and head hot tanked. It makes no sense to reassemble an engine with filthy internals, even if you're trying to be cost-conscious.

I 100% agree with that. What I don't agree with is that I have to drive 140 miles round trip twice to get it done. The lack of machine shops and tools in my area is really a bummer.

So, me and cleaners/brakleen are going to have to do the best we can me thinks. Unless I build this motor for lasting, I'm not sure I want to make a 280 mile trip for a hot tank.

The head is a newer no drip style head that has been all rebuilt and never used. its clean as a whistle. Just this old block of mine that I'm having to deal with. I got the rockers all cleaned up and lookin good. Same with pushrods, which is how I found cracked cup on one.

Most people would probably scrap this motor or use it for an extensive overhaul. I may set it aside and go with the 318 in this car to save the /6 for future use or to retain the parts I've acquired for a better blocked car at least. =) Shame to keep this motor for so many years and finally get to tear it down to see what a mess it is ='(

Thanks for your feedback on my project, I appreciate it!
 
If you have this kind of grime, I would absolutely get the block and head hot tanked. It makes no sense to reassemble an engine with filthy internals, even if you're trying to be cost-conscious.
Why anyone would skip that process when it's so cheap considering all the other costs involved escapes me, yet, some people do.

Was not directed at the OP, of course.
 
With soap and hot water and dedication you will be able to clean the block.
Get some long handle bottle brushes for cleaning the oil lines.
If you can get a power washer that will make you job easier.
Purple Power is a good greaser, oven cleaner may also be your friend.
If re using the rocker arms, give those a through cleaning, carb cleaner is good for blowing through the oil passages.
The rocker shaft should have the cup plugs pulled and scrubbed internally and the oil pump pressure relief valve should be serviced.
 
I 100% agree with that. What I don't agree with is that I have to drive 140 miles round trip twice to get it done. The lack of machine shops and tools in my area is really a bummer.

So, me and cleaners/brakleen are going to have to do the best we can me thinks. Unless I build this motor for lasting, I'm not sure I want to make a 280 mile trip for a hot tank.

The head is a newer no drip style head that has been all rebuilt and never used. its clean as a whistle. Just this old block of mine that I'm having to deal with. I got the rockers all cleaned up and lookin good. Same with pushrods, which is how I found cracked cup on one.

Most people would probably scrap this motor or use it for an extensive overhaul. I may set it aside and go with the 318 in this car to save the /6 for future use or to retain the parts I've acquired for a better blocked car at least. =) Shame to keep this motor for so many years and finally get to tear it down to see what a mess it is ='(

Thanks for your feedback on my project, I appreciate it!
I would add to my68's post, how far from a coin operated wand-style car wash are you? Get the passages good, get the heavy stuff off, leave oven cleaner/degreaser soak then wash & rinse it there 'til she sparkles!
 
One thing I would suggest. As per the OP, this is just a inexpensive/temporary rebuild. He is just going to "dingle berry" hone the cyl. I would just use a plain cast iron ring. It will work better on used cylinders. Will not last as long as a premium ring. Also make sure to clean the oil pump relief valve.
 
Why anyone would skip that process when it's so cheap considering all the other costs involved escapes me, yet, some people do.

I have seen some janky hanky in my life! -- IMO there's nothing like working in a clean environment with clean parts. I am very very OCD about this. Greatly saddens me we have nothing close in my area to take care of this stuff.

We own a shop, I may just invest in a parts cleaner -- for myself, my family and my local area. I'm sure cleaning peoples parts who have no where else to take them, would pay for the machine in a years time!

I have a 3' parts washer this motor has made me need to replace my fluid in :eek:

Purple Power is a good greaser, oven cleaner may also be your friend.
If re using the rocker arms, give those a through cleaning, carb cleaner is good for blowing through the oil passages.
The rocker shaft should have the cup plugs pulled and scrubbed internally and the oil pump pressure relief valve should be serviced.

I by Purple Power by the gallon! I recommend that stuff to everyone I know. My brother recommended after cleaning really well to use a paint stripper on it as well then clean again.

I have an air compressor and tools - I blow out everything I can with compressed air and brakleen.

Thanks for all the infos guys, I had not even thought about servicing the oil pump although its been dunked in my parts washer for a while now. I will make sure to look into this!

Still heavily up in the air about tossing this motor together or saving it in the corner for a future project (when I'm able to replace the block or get it tanked, buy a cam(expensive) and lifters/push rods and fab some exhaust). I have a ton of /6 stuff now that I want and will use at some point for sure.

Grabbing a SB 904 from my bros house over the weekend and retrofitting this 318 with it into my 63' to see if I want to go thru that hassle or not.

After further looking into things, the sbv8 is 220+hp with 300tq and the /6 is sitting at 110-145hp and 200ish tq. -- Makes me want to buy a wagon for my /6 :lol:
 
I always say when assembling, you need operating room clean, and it's true.
 
^^^ What Killer6 said. I'm not sure where in OR you live, but if you have trouble finding parts try Tony's Auto Parts in Vancouver.
Isnt that the one down the street from AllAmerican Classics?? I drive.by there almost daily. So I guess a hello to a local FABO guy!! My company has a commercial Oreilleys account, so Im always using that for the discounts LOL, plus the commercial accts girl just loves the challenge of finding obscure or hard to find parts... Now if she would just find me a few yards of OEM Dodge Floral Top material LOL..
 
Isnt that the one down the street from AllAmerican Classics?? I drive.by there almost daily.

Yup, that's the place. A for-real parts store with people who know how to find stuff and a half ton of reference books on the back counter.
 
Rebuilding a 225 slant out of a 79' for my Dart.

Curious which rings and main/rod bearings are suggested to pick up and use? This engine only needs to last me a few years then I'll swap to a SB but for now, I just wanna freshen her up a bit.

I don't want to shell out $$ for a hot tank and hone or rely on the shops in my area to determine which rings I should run really... not a lot of good machine shops in my area or for many miles that I'm aware of.

I have some flexhone dingleballs I believe are the correct size to hone it so my plan is to just swap out bearing shells and hone/re-ring and do the pushrods new and possibly lifters.

Any suggestions on which brand/coating to use for these cylinder walls is greatly appreciated!

Also in pursuit of some head bolts. I seem to be unable to locate a set of new/stock head bolts. Are they good to clean and reuse? I find ARP but 130$ for a set, maybe I will get them.
Try and get yourself some Hastings Moly piston rings and just find yourself some sealed power, clevite, Federal-Mogul bearings on eBay or somewhere cheap. Google what kind of bore finish for the ring. Look at engine builder magazine articles or simply go on the ring manufacturer site or search Hastings moly Ring finish requirements then use the right Dingle ball or stone
 
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