6 cyl or v8 torsion bars?

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Once again, I think the average guy here is smarter than a fruit basket.

To make the claim they these cars won’t stop or turn with /6 bars and radials is just bullshit. Most everyone I know that wants to go fast at the dragstrip and still drive on the street is using /6 bars or if it’s a BB car a lower rate torsion bar and no one I know is out there crashing on a regular basis.

It’s just silly to claim it’s unsafe.
 
Less safe under certain circumstances would be more accurate. There are good reasons for having spring rate choices. In a grocery getter, it probably means very little except for ride comfort. In a drag race car, slalom car, high speed oval car, or, on the street in an emergency situation, it can mean a world of difference. The weight and weight bias is an important factor too. That's why there were several options available from Mopar from day one. Otherwise they would have just had one bar for all applications. Usually, having a stiffer torsion bar (and springs) will give you better cornering and emergency handling, but, you can go overboard there too and actually make it worse if you go to extremes on a light car. Choose a torsion bar (and rear springs, shocks, and sway bars) according to what you intend to do with the car, the ride comfort you want, and the handling performance you hope to achieve.
 
Once again, I think the average guy here is smarter than a fruit basket.

To make the claim they these cars won’t stop or turn with /6 bars and radials is just bullshit. Most everyone I know that wants to go fast at the dragstrip and still drive on the street is using /6 bars or if it’s a BB car a lower rate torsion bar and no one I know is out there crashing on a regular basis.

It’s just silly to claim it’s unsafe.

Who said they won't stop or turn? I didn't.

I said they won't stop or turn nearly as well, and that's absolutely true. Believe it or not I have driven these cars with stock torsion bars and 14" or 15" rims with the standard choices for all season hockey pucks for tires. Compared to how my car is set up now the handling and stopping capability was pathetic. I have run everything from .85" bars up to 1.12", and until you get up to about 1" bars the handling is very sad. So yeah, I have no problems saying /6 bars on the street with radial tires negatively effect your handling and stopping. They absolutely do.

I'm also gonna go out on a limb and say that "most everyone you know" probably drive their cars less than a few thousand miles per year, and only in good weather conditions. So it's not really surprising they're not crashing on a regular basis. They barely drive at all and usually only under the best conditions. That doesn't prove their cars handle or stop well.
 
Who said they won't stop or turn? I didn't.

I said they won't stop or turn nearly as well, and that's absolutely true. Believe it or not I have driven these cars with stock torsion bars and 14" or 15" rims with the standard choices for all season hockey pucks for tires. Compared to how my car is set up now the handling and stopping capability was pathetic. I have run everything from .85" bars up to 1.12", and until you get up to about 1" bars the handling is very sad. So yeah, I have no problems saying /6 bars on the street with radial tires negatively effect your handling and stopping. They absolutely do.

I'm also gonna go out on a limb and say that "most everyone you know" probably drive their cars less than a few thousand miles per year, and only in good weather conditions. So it's not really surprising they're not crashing on a regular basis. They barely drive at all and usually only under the best conditions. That doesn't prove their cars handle or stop well.


Someone else said that. Not you. I just didn’t quote the post where it was said.
 
Less safe under certain circumstances would be more accurate. There are good reasons for having spring rate choices. In a grocery getter, it probably means very little except for ride comfort. In a drag race car, slalom car, high speed oval car, or, on the street in an emergency situation, it can mean a world of difference. The weight and weight bias is an important factor too. That's why there were several options available from Mopar from day one. Otherwise they would have just had one bar for all applications. Usually, having a stiffer torsion bar (and springs) will give you better cornering and emergency handling, but, you can go overboard there too and actually make it worse if you go to extremes on a light car. Choose a torsion bar (and rear springs, shocks, and sway bars) according to what you intend to do with the car, the ride comfort you want, and the handling performance you hope to achieve.


I agree.
 
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