450-500HP 360?

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he was pointing to the 414hp 9.7:1 360 that has the dyno sheet posted on the third page of that thread, with a voodoo camshaft.
the 8.2:1 360 was a 300hp combo with a 260h camshaft and 318 heads it seem...
...and I was referring to one of his low compression big block builds. I was clear as mud. My bad.
 
The best indication of horsepower is through the MPH #'s, not HP #'s. Traction will affect ET too much. What the engine goes in is also a big factor when it comes to impressing the ones not not familiar with the variables since there will be a big difference between 500HP in a 2,500 lb vehicle and a 3,500 lb vehicle.
Preach it brother!
 
I've never given a CRAP how much power something has. As long as I'm happy with how something runs, that's all that matters to me. Everything else is fluff and bullshit.
 
I have no clue what track times equal to in hp. What does an 11 second 1/4 mile car equal to in hp?
In an A-Body or lets see........maybe a D-Series pickup.....or even, I don’t know, an old Van?? Hard to really say!:steering:
 
I don't understand how random formula's ( online 1/4 mile calculator ) that give different results from one another is suppose to hold more weight then a $100,000 machine that's designed to measure hp (torque & rpm) and if dyno aren't accurate how can we verify these formulas accuracy ??
 
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Here is a 477 horse 318
Iron-Headed Mopar 318 Magnum Engine- Popular Hot Rodding Magazine

nothing magical about making a 450-500 horse 360
One I took out of my Dart last season qualifies.
Bone stock 360 shortblock
Eddie heads with minor port work
Air gap
950( 750 would work)
Headers
Good camshaft( mine was 260/264 565/565 lift)
Ran almost 119 at 3330 pounds, shifting at 6200-6300
 
I don't understand how random formula's that give different results from one another is suppose to hold more weight then a $100,000 machine that's designed to measure hp (torque & rpm) and if dyno aren't accurate how can we verify these formulas accuracy ??


You don’t verify the dyno’s accuracy. You have to verify the operators accuracy.

If they don’t calibrate the dyno with certified weights then you can’t trust the data. How many RPM/second the test is changes the power and torque.

Change the coolant or/and oil temp and it skews the data.
 
You don’t verify the dyno’s accuracy. You have to verify the operators accuracy.

If they don’t calibrate the dyno with certified weights then you can’t trust the data. How many RPM/second the test is changes the power and torque.

Change the coolant or/and oil temp and it skews the data.

I mean these online 1/4 mile calculator formula's that people say are more accurate then a dyno.
 
I mean these online formula's that people say are more accurate then a dyno.


Ahh, gotcha. Those aren’t more accurate than a dyno IF the guy running the dyno does his due diligence making sure everything is not only repeatable but accurate.

I’m not a fan of less than 600 rpm/second tests. No engine accelerates that slow.

There are also several different correction factors. You have to know which one is being used and why.
 
I think my stock bottom end 360 was close to 450 hp. It ran 10.20 at 130 mph at 2850 lbs.
 
Wallace says your 130 MPH at 2850 is 482 HP. I’d buy that.

like Dwayne Porter says, take the above figure and add 10% to it on a solid pretty well sorted out car.
More if it isn’t well sorted, maybe less if it’s an NHRA stocker type deal.
 
Same heads, cam, intake, headers ……… installed in my 340” and so far it’s been 9.90 at 134.6 mph.
 
My idea of a stock stroke 360 that’s targeting the 450hp mark would look something like:
Aluminum heads, 10.5:1, good quench, solid cam in the low/mid-240’s, RPM A/G, 750 carb, headers.

Same combo(a little extra cam duration) in a 408 would put you in the 500hp range.


Sweet! Should be pretty close then but I have a 340, not a clue in hell what quench is, and think my cam is a touch bigger. :thankyou:
 
Honestly just have always wanted a car with 500hp. I would eventually like to have a 10 second street car. I should have plenty of time for the build since I have a good runner now and a spare engine and trans. Basically what I see here is that with a good set of heads and the right cam it should get me close.
 
Honestly just have always wanted a car with 500hp. I would eventually like to have a 10 second street car. I should have plenty of time for the build since I have a good runner now and a spare engine and trans. Basically what I see here is that with a good set of heads and the right cam it should get me close.

And convertor.Very key piece.
If I was building a 10 sec small block street car( and I have lots of times, lol) I would start off with cubic inches. It’s gonna give you room to not get a combo perfect, but still run the numbers you are wanting to see. You also won’t have to lean on it rpm wise to get there.
It’s gonna typically be 3 or 4 tenths faster than a stock stroke deal, all else being similar. I just saw that going from a 360 myself , actually more, but also more compression.
 
I’m also not putting off the idea of turbo or turbos. I don’t want to run nos for sure, and superchargers are$$$
 
Another cheap and easy 500 hp is a junkyard 5.9 magnum, head studs, cometic gaskets, rpm intake, blow through Holley 750, and a gt45. Run it at 7-8 psi and it’ll live a long time and make the power. Spend the money on a good ignition system and a good fuel system.
 
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