450-500HP 360?

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You don’t need a power adder to reach your stated goal. Why add the expense, higher maintenance and complexity to your build? I find turbo’s interesting, but I would want to start with a clean sheet of paper if I was to build one. I know guys have successfully run them, but not sure I would start with an LA/Magnum either. They really could use a fifth head bolt. You could go aftermarket block, but not a simple thing. I would probably lean Gen 3.
 
You don’t need a power adder to reach your stated goal. Why add the expense, higher maintenance and complexity to your build? I find turbo’s interesting, but I would want to start with a clean sheet of paper if I was to build one. I know guys have successfully run them, but not sure I would start with an LA/Magnum either. They really could use a fifth head bolt. You could go aftermarket block, but not a simple thing. I would probably lean Gen 3.
You are correct, the OP doesn’t NEED a power adder for his stated goals but boost makes this target so much easier to reach and keeps the drivability of a completely stock engine. It’s a win win. The complexity is a good argument as there is more fabrication involved with exhaust plumbing and such, but I would argue that for a street driven car it’s almost easier to do. And you end up with the hp you want AND the benefit of having a very docile, drivable engine when it’s out of boost.
 
I really don’t have one at this point, but I’d say up to $5k or so in the end.


Then I wouldn’t go with a stroker. I see so many good parts daily selling for very fair prices but build a plan on paper so you build a nice combo and don’t go off in every direction. Scat I beam rods, used set of flat top pistons, cut or polished stock crank, external balanced engine, hope you can find a proven set of used ported Edelbrock, Speedmaster, Pro Maxx heads, and talk to one of the several good guys on this site about a nice solid lifter cam for your combo. When you start building a stroker engine and internally balance things your budget gets eaten pretty fast. 500 horsepower on a 5000.00 budget is doable but man you better find a few deals.
 
OP...You can get pretty close to your goal with a good set of heads and intake, a healthy FT cam, good headers equal-to or > 1 5/8" primaries, and a quality convertor that is stalled correctly. If there's enough $$ in your budget left over, a quality set of cast flat top pistons to increase the compression would help too. Since you're not spraying it.

Keep an eye out for deals. With everything that's going on with the economy, there will be guys unloading a lot of unfinished projects very soon.

From there, weight reduction will pay dividends. I can't out-horsepower a Hellcat, but I can definitely be lighter. Play to your car's strengths and have fun
 
A certain number to quote or just fire it up and do some show-n-tell: 10.5:1 Max CR, Edelbrock Air Gap, 750 DP, set of quality headers, ported heads (TF, ProMaxx Shocker Etc) solid cam about 250ish@.050” and decent lift w/1.6 rocker ratio, 3500-4000 tight converter, 27-28” rear tire diameter Max, 3.91/4.10 gears. Keep the weight down. Like I’ve said, go to the strip there ain’t nobody asking “how much horsepower “? That ***** for the people sitting in the stands.
 
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And a good solid roller !


A solid roller will make him to go over budget real quick. I’ve gone 9.82 with a .520 lift solid cam and 9.42 with a .660 solid lifter cam so that’s not a deal breaker. 5000.00 isn’t a lot of money when you are starting with a bare block.
 
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Not that I have the extra money but I would love to find another deal like I found in 2015. Machined ready to go R3 block, balanced 422 assembly (Eagle forged 4 inch crank, Eagle rods, Diamond Pistons), Indy 360-1 heads and rockers, Indy intake, .660 lift solid lifter cam and Shubeck lifters, I sold those lifters and bought EDM lifters, rings, and bearings. All for 7500.00.
 
Not that I have the extra money but I would love to find another deal like I found in 2015. Machined ready to go R3 block, balanced 422 assembly (Eagle forged 4 inch crank, Eagle rods, Diamond Pistons), Indy 360-1 heads and rockers, Indy intake, .660 lift solid lifter cam and Shubeck lifters, I sold those lifters and bought EDM lifters, rings, and bearings. All for 7500.00.

Great deal!
 
The best indication of horsepower is through the MPH #'s, not HP #'s. Traction will affect ET too much. What the engine goes in is also a big factor when it comes to impressing the ones not not familiar with the variables since there will be a big difference between 500HP in a 2,500 lb vehicle and a 3,500 lb vehicle.
You got THAT right! 400 rear wheel hp, but under 2500lbs with me in it. 6.30s/9.90s
 
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