Matts440
Well-Known Member
Well I'm just about to throw in the towel and sell this car, still nothing, making no power, they want to do a compression leak down test. I'm so over this ****. Here's a graft of the pull they did today.
67 twin turbo dart
- Thread starter Matts440
- Start date
-
That’s really discouraging Matt but this has to be a simple issue but maybe easy to overlook. Does the engine free rev easily? Looking at your toothed wheel setup is your ignition angle set at about 80
degrees in TunerStudio? It’s been a long time since I did this on my Megasquirt but I remember having to scratch my head for the longest time before I caught on. Essentially the goal is to give the computer a heads up that tooth #1 (TDC) is coming when the 80 degree tooth crosses the sensor which should be enough. In fact 80 is the example they give in the manual on a 32-1 wheel.
degrees in TunerStudio? It’s been a long time since I did this on my Megasquirt but I remember having to scratch my head for the longest time before I caught on. Essentially the goal is to give the computer a heads up that tooth #1 (TDC) is coming when the 80 degree tooth crosses the sensor which should be enough. In fact 80 is the example they give in the manual on a 32-1 wheel.
You’ve come a long way, but sometimes it’s healthy to walk away and give up for a while.
My car will be down for at least 3 months and you’re welcome to borrow my cherry megasquirt crank sensor if you think that’s the issue. Your car still sounds very weird to me. Like it’s running on 6cyl’s or timing deeply retarded….just sounds wrong.
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
Hopefully it’s a little encouragement for you Matt but we all want to see your car run. You’ll figure it out I guarantee it and when you do you’ll be happy you didn’t throw in the towel.
Matts440
Well-Known Member
Those numbers were from when Louis had it, its about 50* btdc now.
Matts440
Well-Known Member
It does rev freely. Just not putting it to the ground, unless that tranzact trans is just plain f'd up from them. I have a new crank sensor from Holley I can put on. They want to run a compression leak down, when they changed the oil they said it smelt like fuel, I'm wondering if the old fuel injectors washed the cylinders and the new bigger ones made it worse causing to much blow by. The said that the valve cover fittings(didn't hook up the breather system yet) had a lot of vent gas coming out, which they was some when we first went there but if its excessive could be the lack of power. Thoughts.
Matts440
Well-Known Member
Before the dyno I would start it up and idle and rev a little bit nothing high, but would let it get to operating temp for a bit, would do that every weekend.
Rat Bastid
Dunamis Metron
Look at the converter and transmission. This is where an engine dyno is a better option. This takes all of that out of it.
I know that’s probably not an option now, but you need to get from the converter back out of the equation.
Matts440
Well-Known Member
Converter is brand new from PTC, its their turbo one, I'll find out the stall, trans is questionable
Hemirunner
Well-Known Member
Every weekend? What was the purpose? Especially if it wasn’t tuned. I don’t start mine unless I’m driving it, loading it on a trailer or such. My buddy did the same. Several stuck injectors and washed all the rings out. It still made 1500whp on the dyno. I doubt that’s your issue.
Matts440
Well-Known Member
Just to keep fluids moving, plus me trying to tune it myself a bit, and checking all sensors since my oil temp and trans temp sensors didn't want to work, so just getting those figured out too. The old injectors could have stuck open at the beginning, I don't know. I don't think its the engine either. What do you think could be a issue? Would bad clutch packs cause the power to not transfer through, or even a valve body for that. Or this shop could just be screwing around just for work not sure.
Last edited:
Hemirunner
Well-Known Member
I run Holley so I’m not familiar with issues that can crop up with MS nor can I diagnose that thing over the Internet from 1000s of miles away but they need to be logging and if the dyno shop can’t log, diagnose and tune, why are they in business? They need to check for any type of configuration issues like a rev limiter Or spark cut safety or coil dwell/ignition setup errors. That graph isn’t even reflective of engine only power so hard to say what’s going on. You got anybody building and tuning big power stuff in your area? They’ll likely know how to diagnose.
Matts440
Well-Known Member
True, was just looking for in site. They have sent the tune to megasquirt to look it over and see if he missed anything. When I was there we did log and send some to be checked over to megasquirt as well. Not really they are pretty much the only dyno shop that does megasquirt, all others are the more popular ones like your Holley. I know he kept saying it felt like the brakes were on when driving, engine revs clean he had been tuning that just to clear up the issue of the crank signal drop out which is taken care of now. Rev limiter was set to 6900 where I set it. Unless they did change it here's where I had it. Coil nominal dwell 3.5ms, spark duration 1.0ms. Here's the last I had for settings.
Last edited:
Hemirunner
Well-Known Member
You’re attachments aren’t working. Given the “brakes on” comment, I would be looking for issues with driveline, like transmission or converter. How does it shift? The feel of that would make one look closer or rule that out. It still doesn’t explain the cut out at exactly 4000 rpm. That looks suspect for engine issues. What do the plugs show? Those should be your go to for anything tune related. The widebands will lie to you, the plugs always tell the truth.
Matts440
Well-Known Member
Fixed. Yeah they checked the trans and found the bands loose, and found that the carriage bolt holding the kickdown block off had dropped its nut into the pan and the spring pressure plate was missing a bolt . They say it moves better not like it was, that's why I'm wondering if the clutches are bad, since the bands were loose and not fully engaging, course I only drove it that once down the street and back. I wrote PTC to see what the stall is on that converter, here is the description 9.5 TF-8 15-0x45 .090 SL. Plugs were black and they changed then out to some NGK copper ones, had NGK iridium's in it.
Last edited:
Hemirunner
Well-Known Member
NGK 7 copper would probably be fine, go to an 8 if you ever get past 4K rpm. Make sure the gap is tight. Like .018 tight. Turn the dwell table on and populate it. 3.5 w/1ms seems like an issue but I’m not sure how MS applies those figures. I started with speed density fueling but changed to VE. I think I sent you my VE table. That ended up within 2% correction on mine. What’s the AFR table look like?
I reviewed my setting compared to yours. Under "Ignition Options/Wheeled Decoder" I have "Ignition Input Capture" set to falling edge. The note shows this setting will correct timing drift. I do recall checking to make sure my timing was stable under varying RPMs with the timing fixed. I'm thinking falling edge may be the default because I don't remember having to change this to correct instability. I'd be interested to hear what others have theirs set to on their MS3.
I see their note says it was a mis-fire cut out. What was the timing doing during the cutout? Was it stable? If it was, the computer is doing its job and I'd look for a hardware issue. Plug wire, spark plug, coil, etc. Have you put a heat gun on each of the header tubes to make sure they are similar?
Matts440
Well-Known Member
That's the thing I just have what they sent to go off of. I haven't and they probably haven't either. What's your coil dwell set to? I'll have them see if changing the input capture to falling edge makes any difference
@Hemirunner not sure which cooper plugs they put in as far as heat range. Think the 3.5/1 ms is what megasquirt recommended, be interesting to see what others have their set to.
Hemirunner
Well-Known Member
Good thread on digital rising vs digital falling. Digital Rising vs Digital Falling?
what’s the purpose of the 170 degree threshold for the boost control?
what’s the purpose of the 170 degree threshold for the boost control?
Matts440
Well-Known Member
Thank you for that. I am not sure, that was set up before I got this setup. Just did a search the ecu won't let boost be active or controlled below 170* or what ever you set it at, probably a safety thing so you can't just get in and jump on it on a cold start.
Hemirunner
Well-Known Member
I figured as much. I don’t recall how yours is configured if you’re on the gate springs on the dyno or trying to make boost with dome pressure. The thermostat is out of mine right now and it wouldn’t hold 170 in between pulls, just sayin. These EFI systems are so customizable it’s easy to paint yourself into a corner.
Matts440
Well-Known Member
I have the smallest spring in the waste gate so its between 7-10 psi, they might have set it higher a bit to see if it will make power to 15. True it is, I'll know more about the engines compression hopefully today, but I'm really thinking the trans is just f'd, when they were getting the shifter to move more freer they noticed on the throw on the valve body for gears that its wider then usual, so if you want a good 3rd, park is questionable that it goes in, or the other way, good park and questionable 3rd. I think that tranzact just built a crappy trans this time for Louis and I got it before even he ran it. So its all new from them.
Hemirunner
Well-Known Member
It’s sure sounding like that which is why I asked how it shifted. I went through lots of issues getting mine up and running as well. I’ve learned an amazing amount since then. Keep at it and it’ll all be worth it!
Matts440
Well-Known Member
Oh I will, I'm to stubborn to give up plus to much money into it lol. I'm wondering if I should rebuild the clutches and get a new valve body, or just a whole new built trans. Anyones best guess on with the clutch bands being loose and valve body not letting fluid let's say to the right places, would you think the clutch packs might still be good and just replace the valve body or just do new clutches and valve body?
Last edited:
-
