Tried 11033 new Lares power steering box on 72 Duster

When replacing a power steering gear, you need to get all the air out of the system. This is the way I like to do it....I start by filling the reservoir with P/S fluid. Then, I turn the wheel from side to side one turn or less with the engine off to work out most of the air. I then check the oil level and top it off and repeat the procedure as necessary. I then run the driver's side seat belt through the steering wheel and cinch it up tight before I start the engine in case the adjustment is way out of whack. That way the wheel won't spin and slam to the stop, possibly damage the box. If the adjustment is ok (I can easily rock the wheel back and forth slightly), I release the seat belt and work the wheel back and forth a half turn or so. Recheck the oil level, top it off, and repeat.....gradually increasing the turning range of the wheel. You don't want to run it all the way to the stop however! That can cause all sorts of foaming if there is any air in the system still. A turn and a half each way is plenty to work out the air. When you think the air is out, drop the car onto the ground, let it sit for 5-10 minutes, and recheck the oil level. Take it for a test drive, and recheck the level again when you get back. Recheck for leaks.

Thanks for input. I think I may be causing problems by trying to go lock to lock . It foams a bunch if running and going lock to lock or otherwise. The Lares instructions say to disable the ignition and crank the starter while steering one way then the other. I don't like punishing my starter like that. I was going lock to lock with front wheels up not running. Then with it running. That's when all the foaming happens. I put a stock style power box in another a body slant six years ago. Was easier to put in than this 340 with headers and was no issue getting it running.