just need a quick confirmation on my idiocy

^^READ the ABOVE^^

The reason that the dist is supposed to be "just so" and so on is so the factory assemblers can rinse, repeat, so the plug wires "lay nice," and so the tune up and other mechs "see what they expect"

ALSO REALIZE that some distributors do not have the drive tang oriented relative to the rotor the way some OEM ones "did."

There is TWO WAYS to determine compression.

1...If you are assembling the engine and have either rocker cover removed, rotate engine until timing marks come up to TDC and see whether No1 or no 6 both valves are closed. Whichever cylinder, THAT one is ready to fire, and that is where you point the rotor

2...The second method is remove no1 plug, and stick in your finger. Bump engine until you start to feel compression. When you do, wrench the engine up slow, watching for the "marks." Do NOT set the engine on TDC, but rather WHERE YOU WANT initial timing.

Drop the dist in with the vacuum can over on the pass side. You can either "make" no1 whichever tower the rotor happens to point to, or you can "walk" the dist drive gear up with a screwdriver and correct it. rotate the dist CW (retard) until the points are closed, then CCW (advance) slowly until the points just break. If breakerless, rotate until the reluctor is about in the center of the rotor

Now install the rest of the wires and start it up. As member Crackedback has pointed out, you can check timing "on the starter."