Spot Welds

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CRUZE 418

CRUZE 418

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I do not want to drill holes for the pilot type cutter, so. How long do the other type last? I have approximately 50 spot welds to drill out. They can cost upwards of $30. a piece
Use cutting oil and keep the speed down?
I borrowed some from a friend, they are so dull that they need to be replaced. So how many should I buy?

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These work great. Get good ones like these. The one kit should do you for 50 welds. Keep the cutter square, low speed and lube. Make sure that you get the right size. Blair has several different sizes.
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CFD244 said:
These work great. Get good ones like these. The one kit should do you for 50 welds. Keep the cutter square, low speed and lube. Make sure that you get the right size. Blair has several different sizes.
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Yup, that's what I use. Like a hot knife through butter. You actually have to be careful they are so good.
 
I got one from Harbor Freight (cheap), was amazed at how well it worked. A little cutting oil and slower speed . Didn’t have to cut clear through, just near, and a pry bar would pop it loose easily. Then finish spot with a 120 grit flap disc on angle grinder and your done.
Yote
 
Those are the type that I didn't want to use.
The back side of my radiator support will look like Swiss cheese! I could use them on the frame horn I guess, well, I know what I am going to do now.
Thank you everyone for answering!
 
Hadn't thought of that route. More than one way to do it. Will keep that in mind.
Thank you.
 
sometime the wreck was so crushed in , we'd have to cut off the material just to get to the welds .
 
I believe that. Used to work at a Dodge dealership in parts , '70 '71. I just repainted my engine bay and redo of everything under the hood. Garage accident. Trying to be surgical in removing the lower radiator support. Brings tears to my eyes, stupid accident, all my fault.
 
CRUZE 418 said:
I believe that. Used to work at a Dodge dealership in parts , '70 '71. I just repainted my engine bay and redo of everything under the hood. Garage accident. Trying to be surgical in removing the lower radiator support. Brings tears to my eyes, stupid accident, all my fault.
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Oh Boy:(
 
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Some say that they use this type of sander to grind down the throwaway side of the spot welded metal.

Then peel back the remnants.that way there are no big holes to weld up.
 
I have a small had grinder, will have to cover things up to guard from metal sparks!
That's another approach!
Thanks !
 
Yote said:
I got one from Harbor Freight (cheap), was amazed at how well it worked. A little cutting oil and slower speed . Didn’t have to cut clear through, just near, and a pry bar would pop it loose easily. Then finish spot with a 120 grit flap disc on angle grinder and your done.
Yote
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Yep, the HF China one was 7 bucks, 2 years ago..
 
I love the Blare spot weld tool. Bits are cheap (3pack) and they are reversible easily.

even a pford guy can use them. Lol!
 
Going to see if I can find someone to sharpen the old bits. I knew they could be sharpened, matter of finding who can do that. I do know someone that should know.
 
CRUZE 418 said:
Those are the type that I didn't want to use.
The back side of my radiator support will look like Swiss cheese! I could use them on the frame horn I guess, well, I know what I am going to do now.
Thank you everyone for answering!
Click to expand...
The center pin is spring loaded so there isn’t really a pilot hole. Just center punch it first.
 
Found that out yesterday. Still had to drill a partial hole. They work, went through 3 cutters on approximately 20 welds. That's with cutting oil and slow time. My hernia will be taking a break for a couple of days!
 
With the HF hole saw I found the spring-loaded pin wouldn't keep the darn thing from walking off the work. I wasted one cutter side PDQ, chipping off all the teeth. Went to pilot drilling 5 or 6 spots, then hit 'em with the cutter, and it was slow going. Started using the cutting fluid and it made a world of difference for me. I recall running the drill speed fairly quick though.

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Front lower corner of inner fender. IIRC, had to use an extension next to the frame rail spots....
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