JGizmo
Well-Known Member
Does anyone know what these two plugs in the firewall of my '65 Valiant go to?
What are these two plugs?
- Thread starter JGizmo
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Scody21
Just send it
Ballast resistor for the ignition
JGizmo
Well-Known Member
Thank you, would one of them have been unplugged for a reason?
pishta
I know I'm right....
that resistor is somewhat low resistance when cold to provide the coil almost 12V, when it starts to warm up, it starts getting more resistive, cutting voltage to the coil to about 6V to prolong the life of the ignition. Many have had to jump this resistor when it opens (cracks) to get the motor started and get home or to a auto parts store. Every Person who's had this happen usually keeps a spare one in the glove box or trunk. Its a Mopar thing...few understand. 
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
"Go to?" The go to right where they are, that is the ballast resistor. One end comes from the key switch "in run" and supplies power to the ballast, which drops the voltage to the ignition coil. The wire taking off from the "key" "run" end taps off power to the voltage regulator IGN terminal.
The other end goes to the coil, and the extra wire comes from the key during cranking, and feeds full battery voltage to the coil during that time.
The other end goes to the coil, and the extra wire comes from the key during cranking, and feeds full battery voltage to the coil during that time.
Scody21
Just send it
Maybe when the motor came out. Not much force is necessary to pull the connector off.
JGizmo
Well-Known Member
I did not know that, thanks for the infothat resistor is somewhat open when cold to provide the coil almost 12V, when it starts to warm up, it starts getting more resistive, cutting voltage to the coil to about 6V to prolong the life of the ignition. Many have had to jump this resistor when it opens (cracks) to get the motor started and get home or to a auto parts store. Every Person who's had this happen usually keeps a spare one in the glove box or trunk. Its a Mopar thing...few understand.
JGizmo
Well-Known Member
Very informative, thank you
JGizmo
Well-Known Member
That would make sense.
Slowswinger
Well-Known Member
What is your plans for an engine?
JGizmo
Well-Known Member
Welp, I blew the original 170 slant six in it in early February. I finally found a new 225 that at least turns over last week, and my goal was to drive it to my last day of high school. But sixes are hard to find where I am, and this one needs a lot of work, so I do not think I'll be done in time. Maybe I'll hemi swap it in a few years.
Slowswinger
Well-Known Member
It's good to see a younger guy in the hobby and working on these cars. Depending on what the new engine needs, parts availability, and your budget it is doable to get it running in a month. Lots of slant guys around here with a wealth of info.
Slowswinger
Well-Known Member
Is there something different on the 65 and earlier slants than 225's or will his 225 bolt up?
JGizmo
Well-Known Member
It'll bolt up, it's just that the new 225 I have probably hasn't ran in 40 years. It is from a 1970 so I need to use a 170 oil pan and pickup (my old 170 has a hole in the pan and I'm guessing metal shards in the oil pump/pickup). I also need to use the distributor from my old motor because this one didn't come with one. And I'm definitely a beginner so I need to figure out timing.
JGizmo
Well-Known Member
Yeah, and as of now I have three slant sixes. Hopefully combined they will make one decent, running Frankenslant.
shittyslant6
Well-Known Member
Whereabouts are you in california? My 225 slant I pulled in October ran great and if you need any parts let me know.
(I also put in a new motor to drive it during high school)
shittyslant6
Well-Known Member
If you need a distributor and are close, the one I have is all brand new inside.
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Great to see you young guns getting after it, there is a wealth of shanty guys on here Rob is one of them @RustyRatRod enjoy guys.
shittyslant6
Well-Known Member
ok, so timing is easy on these slants.
This is not the recommended way to do this but I had no timing light and was new at it then too.
I put the motor at 10-15deg.BTDC using the crank timing marks.(with the distributor out)
Then since the slant dizzy has an oblong hole, and marks at the distributor base on the block, I put the distributor in at 10deg. BTDC as well. for a total of like 22-28deg.
I did this because I was not running vacuum advance and did not realize what centrifugal advance was at the time.
It worked and was reliable, but using a timing light is definitely more accurate if you have access to one.
While there are several slant 6 oil pans there is no "170 pan" or "225 pan" necessarily.
What did the replacement 225 come out of?
If another a body you should be good with what's on it. If a truck it will definitely need swapped out.
JGizmo
Well-Known Member
I think I used the wrong wording for that. I meant that because my car is a '65 and the engine came out of a 1970, I would have to swap the oil pan because I heard they changed shape between those years. I have no idea what the new engine came out of, but I assumed it was an old farm truck judging by the amount of dirt and dust that it was caked in.
JGizmo
Well-Known Member
I'm in Northern California, right by Santa Rosa.
JGizmo
Well-Known Member
I've got the distributor off my old 170, but I'm not sure if there's any difference between the distributors on 170s and 225s.
shittyslant6
Well-Known Member
there shouldn't be but im sure someone more well versed in the slants will chime in
Is the sump on your "new" engine in the back or more centered?
Yeah even the A bodies had different pans up to 66 and after 67. There was a long thread about this courtesy of member "cruising ram" on here recently, it shouldn't be more than couple of pages back. There was a pic in there showing all the different pans that could have come on a/6 and description of which ones could/couldn't be used in a given chassis. Would be worth a look back for you,
at this point.
If you have to change your pan for your replacement engine to fit your car you also need to make sure that you get the right pickup screen that works with that particular oil pan.
If that engine is so nasty/dirty, are you planning on going thru it to any extent before you drop it in? I'd at least do a complete regasket on it and a power wash before dropping it into another vehicle.
Do you have any history?
If your car is a 65 and the engine is a 68 or newer you need the adapter sleeve to go in the back of the crank for the torque converter snout.
Yeah even the A bodies had different pans up to 66 and after 67. There was a long thread about this courtesy of member "cruising ram" on here recently, it shouldn't be more than couple of pages back. There was a pic in there showing all the different pans that could have come on a/6 and description of which ones could/couldn't be used in a given chassis. Would be worth a look back for you,
at this point.
If you have to change your pan for your replacement engine to fit your car you also need to make sure that you get the right pickup screen that works with that particular oil pan.
If that engine is so nasty/dirty, are you planning on going thru it to any extent before you drop it in? I'd at least do a complete regasket on it and a power wash before dropping it into another vehicle.
Do you have any history?
If your car is a 65 and the engine is a 68 or newer you need the adapter sleeve to go in the back of the crank for the torque converter snout.
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