Noise between bellhousing and Engine

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Braeden Clark

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Any thoughts on what this noise is between the engine and bellhousing? Only seems to do it when warm. Engine runs great and trans shifts fine. Maybe nature of beast but I'm not sure. Engine only has 700 miles on a rebuild. I put my ear up to the oil pan and don't hear any strange noises coming from that. Seems louder closer to thr starter. It's a magnum 360 with a 46re. Definitely seems louder on driver side.

https://youtube.com/shorts/SON6w6ojNU0?feature=share
 
Check for loose flex plate to crank bolts or loose converter bolts. Maybe even trans to block bolts.
 
Mr. Sinister said:
Check for loose flex plate to crank bolts or loose converter bolts. Maybe even trans to block bolts.
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That's definitely where I am going to start. Not sure how to check flexplate to crank bolts though. My engine also makes a ticking type noise that I am now thinking may be related to this noise at idle. Maybe. Only makes the ticking noise under 2k rpm. As a side note I feel like when I installed the converter to flexplate there was a tiny gap between the two, and the bolts pulled it together. Is that normal? I may incorrect in remembering there wad a gap but just a thought.
 
The converter snout butts up to the crank center so yes a small gap between the it and the flexplate is normal at the mounting lugs. Did you use a new flexplate? If it’s used it might have developed a crack. Also check to see if your converter bolts are correct length, too long and they might have bottomed out against the converter simulating that they are tight.
 
Mr. Sinister said:
The converter snout butts up to the crank center so yes a small gap between the it and the flexplate is normal at the mounting lugs. Did you use a new flexplate? If it’s used it might have developed a crack. Also check to see if your converter bolts are correct length, too long and they might have bottomed out against the converter simulating that they are tight.
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Similarly, some convertor bolts have too tall of a head and can rub up against the inspection cover or engine block, causing the tick.
 
If the bolts are interfering, AKA hitting the engine you should be able to see that with a good bright light and inspection mirror. Chips, bright spots, "corners" knocked off the bolts and chips out of the block in the radius that the bolts rotate. Get a means to pry the crank forward and aft on the crank end play and see if that "tells" anything. A common problem is ??warpage?? of the dust cover, that is the cover itself rubbing.
 
Kendog 170 said:
Hopefully just the dust cover. I had one bolt too long that did that.
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It was make my year if it was that simple. I don't think it will be but we will find out. Seems worse when the engine is warm though... maybe coincidence. The oil pan is coming off no matter what so if it's bottom end we will find out
 
Sounds to me like a broken exhaust valve spring or related echoing through the exhaust pipe. But the speed points more toward a crank issue do to the crank spinning twice to the cam once. Hard to determine listening to the video. The starter isn't staying engaged is it?
It sort of sounds more like a rattle then a metallic hit.
 
Oldmanmopar said:
Sounds to me like a broken exhaust valve spring or related echoing through the exhaust pipe. But the speed points more toward a crank issue do to the crank spinning twice to the cam once. Hard to determine listening to the video. The starter isn't staying engaged is it?
It sort of sounds more like a rattle then a metallic hit.
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I don't think the starter is staying engaged. The noise I'm hearing here at idle I'm thinking may be related to the ticking I hear when the rpms are help under 2k. Hard to say though. I'm gonna just have to drop the pan and see what story that tells. While I'm at it I can check the flexate/trans area. Damn this makes me mad. The fact it seems worse when it's warm makes me think maybe even bearing related. Idk. Frustrating to say the least
 
We had one that had a weld on a heavy metal slug on the rear counter weight hitting the rear edge of the block. The thrust bearing was wore. Push and pull front to back on the crank with some type of pry bar See if it has a lot of movement.
 
The rear oil pan seal might be pushing the cover into the flex plate. This happened on a friends car, turned out he used the wrong seal. the gasket set comes with two different ones.


Alan
 
The one on the left is the correct one, not sure what the one on the right is for.

Oil pan seals
2008-06-28_001.jpg



Alan
 
Oldmanmopar said:
We had one that had a weld on a heavy metal slug on the rear counter weight hitting the rear edge of the block. The thrust bearing was wore. Push and pull front to back on the crank with some type of pry bar See if it has a lot of movement.
Click to expand...
Well I changed the oil tonight. After I changed it, I started the vehicle up. Noise was still there. It's never been there with cold oil. Everything else in the truck was warmed up. I'm almost thinking maybe I've got a trans/torque converter noise... really seems louder near the bellhousing. Just strange as the truck shifts fine. Any insights on the possibility of torque converter noises?
 
Cuda Al said:
The one on the left is the correct one, not sure what the one on the right is for.

Oil pan seals
View attachment 1715922016


Alan
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The one on the left is the correct seals for 69 and earlier oil pans. front and rear. The one on the right is correct for 70 and later front and rear 318-340. 360 has a different rear pan seal but uses the one on the right for the front.
 
Oldmanmopar said:
The one on the left is the correct seals for 69 and earlier oil pans. front and rear. The one on the right is correct for 70 and later front and rear 318-340. 360 has a different rear pan seal but uses the one on the right for the front.
Click to expand...
See if you can move the crank front and back. You don't have to take anything apart to do that.
 
Oldmanmopar said:
The one on the left is the correct seals for 69 and earlier oil pans. front and rear. The one on the right is correct for 70 and later front and rear 318-340. 360 has a different rear pan seal but uses the one on the right for the front.
Click to expand...
Any thoughts on a possible torque converter issue? Do they make that type of noise when going bad?
 
Darren said:
What did you find?
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well... absolutely nothing. All bolts were tight. No rubbing between anything. Even swapped out all the rod bearings (old ones were fine, one was scratched, had about 1000 miles on em). Cylinder walls looked clean, wrist pins moved freely. I've just been driving the truck. Beating on the engine. Few longer trips. Runs like a champ as of right now. So... I'm just driving it until something happens. And if it does... maybe time to build a stroker... bit the noise may also be trans idk
 
The flex plates are known to crack, and the pieces rubbing together sounds kinda one of those spring steel " crickets" we had as kids, press and it "clicked" .
Get a stethoscope, take needle off, use the cone end to find noise location.
Any washers under converter bolts may cause bolt head to hit block .

,
 
Which bearing was “scratched”? Can you post a picture of that bearing? I had a not-exactly-round rear cap cook bearings and make some noise back there.
But that kinda sounds like a tiny exhaust manifold leak. No?
 
Braeden Clark said:
Any thoughts on what this noise is between the engine and bellhousing? Only seems to do it when warm. Engine runs great and trans shifts fine. Maybe nature of beast but I'm not sure. Engine only has 700 miles on a rebuild. I put my ear up to the oil pan and don't hear any strange noises coming from that. Seems louder closer to thr starter. It's a magnum 360 with a 46re. Definitely seems louder on driver side.

Click to expand...

Did ya ever figure this out? Im experiencing the exact same symptoms on my 5.9 magnum with 46re trans
 
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