Match this 500hp/500lb-ft Combo?
Totally agree with that based on what everyone says and writes about them. I'm not shy about getting dirty and porting the heads myself so the edelbrocks could work. (Yes I known I probably wont do as good a job as a professional or CNC ported head but diy is the fun part of this hobby for me.) The expense would be if there is a decent gain going to a 2.08 valve.
I don’t think the expense is needed as a 2.08 valve would be best in a large bore at/around 4.16. That’s not to say there would be a gain. It’s just, like what bug’s bunny said on his sign when falling,
“Is this trip really necessary?”
Being you can port them yourself, it’s just a huge HOMERUN!
W2/W5 would be great, but those are rare, valve train is rare and expensive and most of them have been ported to the point they probably wouldnt work well for my target combo with a smaller cam and more low/mid torque than all out RPM HP goals. I think something flowing over 300cfm might be a bit lazy in a street car? (then again gen III Hemi's dont have any issues with +300 cfm heads on the 5.7)
It’s not the heads big flow that is bad for the street, but the overall size of the port on the selected displacement that can ether be ridiculously awesome or a horror show.
The W2-5 is harder to come by these days. A Harland sharp rocker set up is not to much more money than standard rockers. It’s super hard to find W5’s. There dicey on how well the casting is. Mine gave up the ghost @ 312cfm. The W2’ should be a waiting game for them to show up.
The heads themselves aren’t that expensive but there bare. This is a plus and minus since you now have to get valves & get the work done. I don’t see the lack of valve springs, retainers and keepers as a minus because locks and retainers are cheap but the springs are now order to your spec, not what Edelbrock or TF deliver and hope/wonder if they will fit the cam profile you select.
With the W2, it’s just there weight.
Intakes are easy to find. Just wait. They pop up often. The W5 can use a re drill the standard LA intake. Then home port the port window to fit the heads port. No big deal.
That long, fun street car 2500-5500 torque band is basically what I am going for with this combo. It seems like a lot of the chevy hydraulic rollers have the same similar specs to the .904 lifter lobes for mopars (or at least the ones listed by Comp and Hughes I have looked at), so I could get a flat hydraulic mopar cam with basically the same specs as that one BP has listed. Who has the best Mopar lobe selection?
It’s not how has the best .904 profiles. They all have it. They know what they can push and can not push on a tappet size for the lobe profile. What your after is the cam timing events to compliment the build.
Even though the Chevy and MoPar cam both list the same advertised and @.050 spec, the MoPar cam can still be more aggressive because of the larger tappet.
You said “get a flat hyd cam” A flat tappet Hydraulic?
(SMH….)
Isn’t the BP Chevy engine running a Hyd. roller?
What duration would you suggest compared to the one BP has listed? It peaks around 6000 and torque isnt dropping off a cliff with just 230 intake. Wouldn't a 235 intake bump the hp peak up a few 100 RPM and probably get the hp over 500?
If your looking to exceed the BP engines output on the Chevy engine, you’ll just need to make sure your heads outflow the BP heads. Copy everything else. Except the cam. Use a more aggressive rate of lift on the cams ramp with more lift and take advantage of the better head flow. You can even keep the duration the same. A few more degrees on duration will push the entire curve upwards. A better flowing head extends the curve at the top so it doesn’t fall off. It’ll just hang in there longer.
A better flowing head through out the heads flow curve will produce more power & hang onto it further. All of this with the same cam.
Perhaps a fella here who has run a dyno a few times can tell you better how this will work and operate between a tiny 5 or 8 degrees more or less of a camshaft. Just exactly what a 230 vs a 235 vs a 240 @.050 in a stroker will do more precisely than an educated guess or what was seen from other dyno tests which can often be of much smaller or larger displacements. I really do t want to speculate on this.
