Most of the info you need is
here, except there are additional parts needed if your '60 engine is all original.
If you still have the '60-only intake manifold—it's aluminum, so check with a magnet—and the '60 carburetor, then you will need to do some parts swapping. How much swapping of what parts depends on how patient you're willing to be and how much money, time, and effort you're willing to put into this. The '60 intake manifold does not have the extra 1/4" hole on the carb mounting pad. This hole was provided as the PCV flow pass-thru starting on the '61 manifolds (cast iron). There's a matching hole on the bottom of the throttle body of a PCV-compatible carb, leading to the nipple at the left front corner of the carb where the PCV hose attaches. You can't just drill the 1/4" hole in the manifold yourself, because there's no metal there for it; the carb mount was slightly enlarged to accommodate it.
There is a workaround: In '67 on the Carter BBS, a couple years later on the Holley 1920, the PCV arrangement on the carburetor was moved over to the right (inboard, driver's) side and the pass-thru was completely contained within the throttle body; it entered at an inward-downward angle so there was no longer a need for that 1/4" hole on the outboard side of the carb mount pad:
View attachment 1715922962
This can't be surgically done on an earlier carb without ruining it, but there are carburetors that have the appropriate throttle lever for the '60-'66 rotating-rod throttle linkage
and the inboard-side PCV port. They were mostly service replacement carburetors meant to fit a range of year/model Slant-6 cars, and one of these would neatly solve the problem for you. The trick is finding one; at this late date good Slant-6 carburetors have grown scarce and expensive.
Here is a brand-new one (ad says "225", but it will work just fine on a 170).
This project you have in mind is worth doing; even with an engine in good shape, normal crankcase vapours and fumes
stink.
