Holly carb help

I once ran that cam in my 11.3 scr 360 with alloy heads
If your Carb does NOT have a 4-corner idle , then I know exactly what's wrong, Ok rephrase; I think I know Almost exactly what's wrong, lol
Firstly; IMO your compression ratio is too high for pump gas on the street. I highly recommend you do a compression test and post up the results. Crank at WOT, until you get two consecutive pulses of same or similar pressure.
Then;
#1, forget trying to set the Idle Afr with that cam, there is far too much monkey-motion in the intake until about 2000/2200 rpm.
#2, you have way too much idle timing
#3, your secondaries should be closed tight but not sticking
#4, your transfers are NOT open far enough
#5, she is gonna want some idle-air bypass with the closed secondaries
#6, your idle speed is way too high.
#7 your jets may not be not quite right, depending on your elevation.
#8 Your cruise timing is waaaay not enough

My 367 idled at 750 real steady, and I could drag it down to 550 with the clutch. It did not care about the cam-timing. I ran it every 4*, from 8 advanced to 4 retarded, all on the same carb settings and timing, it just did not care.
Here's what I ran; 360+.040, OOTB Edelbrock alloy heads, Airgap, 750DP, no spacer, 292/292/108 Mopar cam. TTIs and dual 3" all the way.
As to Ignition;
I started with the ORANGE box, and a well-used standard Junkyard 318 Mopar distributor, with a 20* cam, and the 318 springs one of which had the one-long loop. I set the Power-timing to 34* which resulted in 14* of Idle-timing. The curve resulted in 28*@2800, then slowed down to 34* at 3400.
I modified the V-can to get 22*, as fast as possible.
Full cruise-timing at 2800, was 28+22=50* which was not quite enough but the best I could get.
At these setting I was able to run 87E10 full-time.
As to the Carb; (750DP)
I flipped the carb over, Set the Transfer slot to just noticeably taller that wide, maybe 30%. I reset the Holley mixture screws to 3/4 turn. I closed the secondaries up tight but not sticking. I drilled one Idle Air bypass in each Primary throttle-plate of 5/32. I put it on the front side, between the idle discharge port and the T-slot, and about .25" back from the front edge. I lightly deburred the holes on both sides.
If your carb does NOT have a 4-corner idle system, and if you crack the secondaries for bypass air; I did that, and I struggled with a crappy idle for quite a long time. Finally I said chuck it and started drilling the blades. I got up to 7/32 before you know it, but that was too big. I had to solder them closed, move over, and try again. Do NOT drill more than 5/32, and DO NOT drill thru any solder plugs.
Other
>If you have power-brakes, do NOT route the vacuum hose to any single runner. Instead, route the hose to the hose-barb on the secondary side of the carb, or if none there, then drill/tap a hole into the plenum at about that location. Do not use fuel line for this hose; you need a thickwall vacuum hose.
If you run that hose to one runner, I guarantee two problems at 750 rpm idle; 1) it will idle rough every time you step on the brake, and 2) the booster will run outta boost at slow speeds.
>The PCV is whatever I pulled out of the junkbox that fit (probably off a 318 but IDK). Make sure you use only PCV hose on that circuit.
>With my alloys I run a coolant temp of 207*F, but I suggest you run no more than around 185 at the stat-house with your iron heads.
>I have adjustable valve gear, and run 1/2 turn lifter preload.
>I ran 78/86s with a 10.5PV@930ft.
>Plugs are the Champion coppers heat-range of 12, IIRC
> If you ever need to buy a coil, I highly recommend the Accel square top SuperCoil.
>If you have an AirGap, I doubt the 1" spacer will do any good.
Lemmee see what I forgot.
Ok done
Ok wait, That is what I ran, lol, and it worked for me. Car ran fantastic but could have used a lil more pressure. I ran 3.55s with a standard A833.