Need help with a Dodge Charger question.

Bewy said

35 posts talking about LED lights, but not fixing the OPs problem, which I stated early in this thread is probably worn out alt brushes. They cannot handle the extra load of the Hi beams.
H/light switches get warm because they switch a lot of current & they have a rheostat that dims the panel lights; depending on where this is set, it will also generate some heat. A warm switch is not necessarily an indicator of failure. If the HL switch [ or dimmer sw] was faulty & causing a bouncing ammeter needle, I would expect the HLs to be flickering, & this has not been reported.

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Another benefit to the relay kit. No headlight load crossing the bulkhead multiple times and only switching energy to turn on relay, maybe 1/3 amp. Saves the headlight switch and bulkhead from all that heat. Reduces those failure point that makes these cars so adorable...

I do enjoy the butchering comment. I'm sure the guys with original hemi and six pack cars that I've built kits for feel that way, butchered. Even us lowly A body guys. :) A well designed kit is virtually invisible to most people looking in the engine compartment. Some take my kit and wrap it in friction tape. You really have to look for it and the halogens with a relay perform great, many comment they are better than the new vehicles they drive. No cutting EVER with a well designed kit.

In 10+ years I've had one reported failure of a relay and it had NOTHING to do with the relay itself. An acid was sprayed very close and corroded the relay switching mechanisms.

JMO, led lights look like crap in these older cars. Talk about butchery... :) As I say.. pick your parts, pay your money.