next project...rear plow

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diymirage

HP@idle > hondaHP@redline
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hey guys, i am working on a deal for a rear plow for my plow truck

im sure i can figure the mechanical part out (stay tuned for pictures) but at this point my main concern is the electrical
its a full sized truck and i intend to run the pump in the back, with no separate battery (the truck allready has two)

so im looking at running about 25 foot of welding leads to the back of the truck
would 4 guage be sufficient?
 
Due to the length and amperage of the pump (180-250amps on most plow pumps) I would go 2/0 welding cable. Easier than hydraulic hoses all the way to the back like one truck I had with a pull plow out back. The guy put the pump up front next to the master cylinder - short battery cables and then two hydraulic hoses to the back like 20ft long each. It worked actually as a pull plow and the front push plow it was a awesome combo.
 
Without knowing the power the plow pulls, impossible to recommend. Remember that all this puts TREMENDOUS load on the charging system, not just the alternator, but the wiring as well. You have to re-charge those two big batteries

There is another caveat........the more load you put on a vehicle system, and start to pull it down, the electrical noise caused by both the alternator (ripple at minimum) and the loads (motors and switchgear) goes UP. This can raise hell with the vehicle electronics

You might want to investigate a much larger alternator and direct wiring charging line. similar to an "ammeter bypass" except---there probably is no ammeter, but the point is, get a direct heavy route from alternator to battery.

It MIGHT even be time to consider isolated systems..............Two batteries, one only for the plows, with a separate added alternator
 
I just pull plow with my front plow. lol
A couple passes the length of the truck.
I've had a total of 8 different plows, never felt the need for a pull plow.
 
I have a plow on my truck, it draws a lot of power. Two batteries. Chevy 1/2 ton. Guessing 100 amp alternator. Been on the truck 8 years.
I use 1 run of welding cable to rear battery and heavy grounds to frame. Having a rear mounted plow has always been on my mind, plowing in reverse. Too much expense, time and abuse to make a rear plow worthwhile.
 
thanks guys

the truck allready has 2 batteries and a V plow up front
i think the charging system should be adequate, but ill keep an eye on it

one of the main reasons i want to add a rear plow is because i do a few large parking lots and i spend a lot of time backing up
i was thinking it would be awesome if i could use that backing up to move snow...even if it is just to clean up some windrows


as far as the amperage, the pump im looking at is advertises as 1.6 KW, so that should be 130ish amp
 
Look- as a person who has owned them commercially for plowing they work great. especially in condo units. Back up, drop both plows drive forward just past one truck length. Pick up both- back up and drop the front only and done. Also good for residential driveways because it cleans up over spills when making corners.
Again mine was 8ft and pulled about 200amps when hot but when it’s ice cold possibly a lot less. Go for it! Saves on the neck muscles too!
 
Look- as a person who has owned them commercially for plowing they work great. especially in condo units. Back up, drop both plows drive forward just past one truck length. Pick up both- back up and drop the front only and done. Also good for residential driveways because it cleans up over spills when making corners.
Again mine was 8ft and pulled about 200amps when hot but when it’s ice cold possibly a lot less. Go for it! Saves on the neck muscles too!

i dont suppose your commercial ones were hitch mounted were they?

the one i just picked up was originally bolted to the frame of the truck, but i want to convert it to hitch mount
it has a bog ole plate so i can just cut that off the I beam and weld a hitch bar on it
im not sure if it makes sense to get a class V drawbar, cut it off and weld it, or buy one of the solid weld on bars

(if yours were hitch mount, was the part that slid into the hitch solid or heavy wall ?
 
Took some measurements and it looks like the new plow mount would bolt right to the frame, and replace the rear bumper

i would just need to figure something out with the hitch, because i cant keep my hitch on it
in the summer i use the plow truck to pull the boat so i would have to do something

right now, the plan is to bolt on the plow frame and get all that operational, and then have a shop weld in a new receiver tube

71I7GXW79YL._AC_SL1500_.jpg



(i got a welder, but i only have fluxcore wire, no gas, and i dont want to have to worry about anything as i pull with this)


one of my buddies had fallen on hard times so i let him borrow the truck so the whole project is on hold for a while
 
got the truck back today and started pulling things off
the bumper and the hitch are now on the side yard

i took a good look at the plow frame and it looks like it can not slide flush on the truck frame because of the shock mounts
long story short, it will portrude of the truck frame by about 3/4s of an inch
not a big deal but it meant i couldnt copy the plow frame holes onto the truck frame, so i swapped it around and put the stock bumper mount holes on the plow frame

by then, i had lost all daylite so i wont know for sure untill tomorrow if it fits, but i got high hopes it will slide right in

best part of this set up is, the stock bumper mounting bolts were pressed into a plate together so they only take one socket to torque down

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