Engine enamel paint

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jawbone

jawbone

Cuda_queer
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Want to paint my block 68 red. Word has there is a source for engine paint other than the typical well known VHT, Duplcolor, Rustoleum etc. What I understand is, there is "the guy" that is a source for a better quality paint. If anyone reads this and knows "the guy" please pass his contact information on to me. Jeff
 
I have used this Red Acrylic Enamel automotive paint with the hardener to match and paint a '69 red 318 engine.

Tuff and stands up to heat and engine chemicals.

Exact same color and product as the Red on this buggy.

Can get the code when I am back at the shop in a couple of weeks.

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Would be interested in color code when you can sir. Thanks for responding. Jeff
 
D-mailman said:
Caliper paint is good for 500 degrees and comes in about every color you would want , and available at most auto stores .
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Thanks will take a look. Never have painted calipers before so would have never thought of that.
 
You used to be able to get Chrysler Red from Eastwood but the killed that color. They do have a red that’s close but not exact.
 
International Harvester red is a dead match FWIW.
 
RustyRatRod said:
International Harvester red is a dead match FWIW.
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I have Seymour Spruce #98-44 Ford/Chrysler Red engine enamel
Seymour Farm & Industry #16-214 International Harvester Red rated to 300 degrees
Rust-oleum Massey Ferguson Red (not an engine enamel)
and the winner is Rust-oleum International Harvester Red (but not an engine enamel)
Will check for different source for IHC paints that may have a temp rating. Thanks. Just so happens I have a 75 IHC Scout II. Jeff
 
Hell I did not want to paint the thing anyway. It's in my office inside the house. I'm treading on thin ice with the wife as it is. Can you imagine what kind of fallout there would be.
 
jawbone said:
Hell I did not want to paint the thing anyway. It's in my office inside the house. I'm treading on thin ice with the wife as it is. Can you imagine what kind of fallout there would be.
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Come on. You know the rule. Ask forgiveness not permission.
 
jawbone said:
I have Seymour Spruce #98-44 Ford/Chrysler Red engine enamel
Seymour Farm & Industry #16-214 International Harvester Red rated to 300 degrees
Rust-oleum Massey Ferguson Red (not an engine enamel)
and the winner is Rust-oleum International Harvester Red (but not an engine enamel)
Will check for different source for IHC paints that may have a temp rating. Thanks. Just so happens I have a 75 IHC Scout II. Jeff
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Well that's convenient! lol
 
I have used that rule at work but at home may end up with right cross. I must say my wife has been very patient. Brought the engine inside to keep the rust off as I put it together. Big learning curve i.e. degree the cam, cc the heads, check piston to valve clearance, calc pushrod length. The intake I want will not be available until July. I must use the stay on good behavior rule.
 
Bill Hirsch Paint in spray and in brush forms are really good and stand up well. The only problem I have with the company is their shipping costs are and have been crazy, well before Covid.
 
earlymopar said:
Bill Hirsch Paint in spray and in brush forms are really good and stand up well. The only problem I have with the company is their shipping costs are and have been crazy, well before Covid.
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Just received my paint from them. They give it a shelf life of one year. Better get on the ball.
 
I primed and painted my calipers with non engine/heat paint and held up good. Key is prep and primer.
 
QuickDart360 said:
I primed and painted my calipers with non engine/heat paint and held up good. Key is prep and primer.
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Unexpectedly, Bill Hirsch specifically did not recommend primer on cast iron block surfaces. Only on smooth surfaces such as stamped steal valve covers.
 
Hi i always used 2k solid paint on my engines whid a epoxy primer on the bottom but now im gona use troton bed liner its extremle durabul and can take a lot of heat,its the firts time im using this paint so im looking forward to this experiment,im using the same epoxy primer as before,I painted the front piece behinde the grill whid this paint,dont knowe what its calld in englich,whid good result its semi glass,any body else tredje this produkt,just a heads up you have to thinn it before you shoot it its realy thick

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if you want the "correct" color then call Bill Hirsch... he is the accepted pro when it comes to that. it will be whatever the factory used.

i like to use a high solids urethane ove epoxy primer myself. that **** us practically bullet proof and lasts for years and years. you just have to match the correct color up on the color map for the proper mix.
 
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