Battery in Trunk Wiring That Exceeds NHRA Requirements

You HAVE to have something in the way of a relay, or switch, SOMEWHERE.

If you want to have ALL power cut, (and I am a believer in that) there are only so many ways to do that

HERE IS THE problem: Are you familiar with the old wives tale of "testing a charging system" by removing a battery cable on a running car? Allegedly, if you do, and the engine stays running, the alternator is OK

THAT IS THE PROBLEM you face. Whether "1 wire" or multiwire alternator, the charging system will maintain the engine systems with the battery disconnected.

You need a big *** quality switch to "break" the main battery cable, and you need something that will either break the EFI/ ignition circuit, or break the alternator in some way---either break the VR or break the main output.

The SIMPLEST way I know is to use a 4 terminal, quality disconnect switch. Break the main battery with the large terminals, and break the ignition circuit with the other two.

If you happen to have an MSD ignition, that is EASY because the "small red" trigger wire is low amperage.

If you do NOT have MSD you should consider using a relay to fight the voltage drop of having the two wires all the way to the rear, and then back to the front, from the second set of contacts