Are aftermarket A body upper control arms worth it ?

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The overlord has spoken!! Let's all bow down and kiss his rectum!!

Save your money and put towards tires unless you want to spend dollars and brag to your buddies?
 
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Last I heard alot of people had breakage at the welds, or bending on pot holes from all the different manufacturers.

ummm. no. CAP had an issue but that was about the only one i remember. the other legit companies out there didnt have that issue. you need to do a little more homework.
 
Does everyone here need to pass a lie detector test before replying? OP is the one needing to do his/her homework. It's their car. Seems every thread now gets nitpicked to death...
 
The overlord has spoken!! Let's all bow down and kiss his rectum!!

Save your money and put towards tires unless you want to spend dollars and brag to your buddies?

Have you ever run an A-body with more than +3.5° of caster? Because if you haven't I don't see how you can have a relevant opinion on running more than that.


I also see you changed your reply, was the first one not good enough?
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Also- a salesman? I didn't promote a single product or a single seller. Heck I listed half a dozen sellers that compete with each other.

Does everyone here need to pass a lie detector test before replying? OP is the one needing to do his/her homework. It's their car. Seems every thread now gets nitpicked to death...

No, of course not. But if someone shoots from the hip about what they thought they remembered from 10 years ago and in the process make wildly untrue statements about the safety of certain parts they should be corrected. Because nothing even close to what was said is actually true. And "doing your homework" should mean considering the facts, not wading through a mountain of made up BS.
 
:drama:Wow... Just wow

Hey it's not my fault you insist on posting total nonsense and then breaking out the red X's and name calling for anyone willing to fact check you.

And, are you going to answer the question? Have you ever run more than +3.5° caster on an A-body?
 
What a fuckin joke....fyi, I can post wherever AND whatever the **** I like.
Mods dont like it, I'm sure I'll hear about it lmao.
Screenshots? REALLY? Is that the REAL fabo? Its blue, mines burgundy, I think it's been photoshopped and not the real fabo....gimme a break. As far as my edit, i would let you know, BUT seeing as how it bugs you, you can figure it out.
Like I said threads nitpicked to FUCKIN DEATH!
Have you ever run an A-body with more than +3.5° of caster? Because if you haven't I don't see how you can have a relevant opinion on running more than that.


I also see you changed your reply, was the first one not good enough?
View attachment 1715925809

Also- a salesman? I didn't promote a single product or a single seller. Heck I listed half a dozen sellers that compete with each other.



No, of course not. But if someone shoots from the hip about what they thought they remembered from 10 years ago and in the process make wildly untrue statements about the safety of certain parts they should be corrected. Because nothing even close to what was said is actually true. And "doing your homework" should mean considering the facts, not wading through a mountain of made up BS.
 
What a fuckin joke....fyi, I can post wherever AND whatever the **** I like.
Mods dont like it, I'm sure I'll hear about it lmao.
Screenshots? REALLY? Is that the REAL fabo? Its blue, mines burgundy, I think it's been photoshopped and not the real fabo....gimme a break. As far as my edit, i would let you know, BUT seeing as how it bugs you, you can figure it out.
Like I said threads nitpicked to FUCKIN DEATH!

Good grief man. Who said you couldn't post? Nobody.

All I said was if people post demonstrably false information they should be corrected. This forum will become totally useless if everyone just makes stuff up in response to a technical question.

As for the screen shot, I just happened to go from my phone to my computer and saw the post had been changed to be much more derogatory and grabbed a screen shot of the old one on my phone. So what? If you think anything you post on the internet ever goes away, let me be the first to inform you that everything you post on the internet is out in the world forever, edits or no.

Also, yeah, there's a little thing in the bottom left corner that lets you change the forum color. I like blue. The "real FABO" can be blue, red or brown. Neat huh?
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Nothing derogatory in my post, my bad I thought you were meaning I edited my post due to derogatory comments. None were made.... I've had enough...for now.
Good grief man. Who said you couldn't post? Nobody.

All I said was if people post demonstrably false information they should be corrected. This forum will become totally useless if everyone just makes stuff up in response to a technical question.

As for the screen shot, I just happened to go from my phone to my computer and saw the post had been changed to be much more derogatory and grabbed a screen shot of the old one on my phone. So what? If you think anything you post on the internet ever goes away, let me be the first to inform you that everything you post on the internet is out in the world forever, edits or no.

Also, yeah, there's a little thing in the bottom left corner that lets you change the forum color. I like blue. The "real FABO" can be blue, red or brown. Neat huh?
View attachment 1715925862
 
What do you actually have for caster now? And what tires are you going to run?

Usually with the offset UCA bushings about the best you can do for caster is +3.5*. Which might be fine depending on your tire choices, like if you’re gonna run 225/60/15 BFG’s or Coopers that’s fine.

If you’re going to 17/18 rims with wider tires than 225 you may want more caster too, the wider the front tires the more tendency they have to track ruts and things and more caster helps a lot.

If you have manual steering there also may be a number you don’t want to go past, the more positive caster you have the more stable the car is- but that also means more resistance to turning. So, more steering effort.

I run 275/35/18’s up front and have run everything from +3.5* caster all the way up to +8*. For me I’ve determined +6.5* is the happy medium, below that the 275’s start to go where they want. And above that it starts getting exponentially harder to steer. I still run a 16:1 manual steering box though.

So if the plan is to run really wide front tires, you’re probably going to want adjustable UCA’s too. If you’re not going wider than 225 or so then the offset bushings and stock UCA’s will probably be enough, as long as you find you can get at least +3* of caster or so.
Rebuilding front end now, dry rotted BFG
Ta radials. I have 235 60r rear, 195' up front. The part about 225' up front , offsets will work, has peaked my interest. .245 on rear Looks like it will just fit, Maybe. Anyone done 245 on a stock 67-72 Dart without surgery ??
 
Rebuilding front end now, dry rotted BFG
Ta radials. I have 235 60r rear, 195' up front. The part about 225' up front , offsets will work, has peaked my interest. .245 on rear Looks like it will just fit, Maybe. Anyone done 245 on a stock 67-72 Dart without surgery ??

Yes. 245/60/15 up front on 15x6.5 Chrysler rallye rims.

BUT you have to move the hole on the bottom front fender stabilizer bar way forward… that pushes out the fender a couple inches

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Rebuilding front end now, dry rotted BFG
Ta radials. I have 235 60r rear, 195' up front. The part about 225' up front , offsets will work, has peaked my interest. .245 on rear Looks like it will just fit, Maybe. Anyone done 245 on a stock 67-72 Dart without surgery ??

If the plan is 225/60/15’s up front then offset bushings with stock UCA’s will be fine. You should be able to dial in +3.5* of caster, maybe a bit more. And that will be fine. I prefer a little more than that and I do think it’s beneficial, but it’s not absolutely necessary.

There are quite a few people here running 245’s on the back of 70-72 Dart’s without any significant modifications. You have to get the backspace spot on, but it can be done. @toolmanmike has 255/60/15’s on his Dart

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Absolutely no mention of what the intended use/purpose of this car is. Street, Strip, Roadcourse, Cruiser, Groceries. That will get a better answer.
 
Absolutely no mention of what the intended use/purpose of this car is. Street, Strip, Roadcourse, Cruiser, Groceries. That will get a better answer.
Road closed coure, at safety complex, cones, 70 Dart, pebbles in asphalt half dia of pencil, porous finish
 
we are running 225/60-15 up front on our 70 dart. 15x7 rim with 4.5 backspace. should have gone 4.75 backspace.

Do you think you'd have the brake/ball joint clearance to go with a 4.75" backspace on a 15 up front? I haven't tried it, but I know that the limit for clearance on a 15" rim is pretty close to that...

Road closed coure, at safety complex, cones, 70 Dart, pebbles in asphalt half dia of pencil, porous finish

If that's the goal then get the tubular control arms unless they will put you in a racing class you don't want to be in. You will want the additional negative camber and positive caster you can get with them, and not have to worry about trading one for the other to get the alignment specs equal. With offset bushings and stock UCA's there's less range, and you may have to compromise on one alignment setting to get the other to the point that you don't get what you want in some places.

If that's the only use of the car, you'll want to dial in more negative camber as well as it will help with traction on that surface. If it's still going to be a street going car you'll want to stay at around -1° camber, otherwise you will start to see camber wear on the tires. But I'd be looking for -1° camber (or more for race only), +5° or more caster (which also adds more camber on turns), and 1/16" toe in. And you'll need at least non-adjustable tubular UCA's to get that. The gen I SPC UCA's I run from @BergmanAutoCraft would make those settings easy to get.
 
Do you think you'd have the brake/ball joint clearance to go with a 4.75" backspace on a 15 up front? I haven't tried it, but I know that the limit for clearance on a 15" rim is pretty close to that...

i think so.... thought i had more pictures but guess not.. this is all i can find. upper arm looks tight but if i remember in person there is room.. i'll have to go look when i get a chance. plenty of room on the tie rod though.

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