Anyone lay their own concrete?

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Garethw said:
Hey FABO. I’m planning a 40x48 pole barn shop. The total amount was a little crazy so I’m looking for ways to save. The concrete alone was quoted at about 12k (includes forming, material, and labor). My math says it takes 21yd of concrete for a 4” slab. At $160/yd that’s about $3400 for the material. So over $8k in labor for a slab seems ridiculous. Is it really that hard? Anyone do this themselves?
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I built a 40 x 40 shed using two shipping containers as sides with a 25 x 40 slab between them. Center section is 13 ft clearance, so makes a great shop.
The slab was 13 or 14 yards. Contractor did it all including gravel, steel and concrete for 8k. That was after some negotiation. Turned out awesome.
 
Garth McDonald said:
I built a 40 x 40 shed using two shipping containers as sides with a 25 x 40 slab between them. Center section is 13 ft clearance, so makes a great shop.
The slab was 13 or 14 yards. Contractor did it all including gravel, steel and concrete for 8k. That was after some negotiation. Turned out awesome.
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Pic?
 
I did this in 3 sections, with a little help from a couple friends. It’s 28x36, and I’ve been helping my neighbor on pours when he is short handed. I try to barter everything I can, I usually spend my $$ on materials, have a couple buddies come when they can and pay them $100 a day, and give them back the time they gave me when they need help.

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Garth McDonald said:
I built a 40 x 40 shed using two shipping containers as sides with a 25 x 40 slab between them. Center section is 13 ft clearance, so makes a great shop.
The slab was 13 or 14 yards. Contractor did it all including gravel, steel and concrete for 8k. That was after some negotiation. Turned out awesome.
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Wow, that is a great idea! If I was younger and had it to do all over I wouldn't mind trying it that way. Sends some pics if you got them.
 
You need to clearly understand that the first thing that is looked for is durability. Durability is really important. Parquet, even the most durable, massive and engineering board is still wood. And the service life is limited. Concrete is an almost eternal material, unless, of course, everything is done correctly on cement of at least M400 grade. Such a floor is not afraid of sharp heels and claws of pets. Unlike cork flooring and linoleum, there will be no traces of furniture legs on it. If the concrete floor serves perfectly in the garage, where cars drive on it, then there will be no problems with it at all in the house.
 
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I've read through this entire thread and no one has mentioned that the math on the amount of concrete for a 40' x 48' pad 4" thick is a little short at 21-yards. My calculations come to 23.7 and I would order 26-yards if I was doing the project. I have poured a lot of concrete in the 10-12-yard range always with the same 2 guys helping that also know what they are doing. I am no novice, but seriously doubt I would even begin to pour that much concrete at once myself. Dumping out 25 yards is one thing. Getting it flat, level, and ultra smooth is another. Doing in stages could be an option, but anything over 10-12 ft wide is impossible to strike off with a 2x6. You need a professional that mainly does large slabs for a living. You might think it's a lot of money to pay now, but when you have to jackhammer it all out and start over later you'll wish you had it a pro do it. There are places to save money and places to spend money. This is a spend the money place.

Tom
 
PROSTOCKTOM said:
I've read through this entire thread and no one has mentioned that the math on the amount of concrete for a 40' x 48' pad 4" thick is a little short at 21-yards. My calculations come to 23.7 and I would order 26-yards if I was doing the project. I have poured a lot of concrete in the 10-12-yard range always with the same 2 guys helping that also know what they are doing. I am no novice, but seriously doubt I would even begin to pour that much concrete at once myself. Dumping out 25 yards is one thing. Getting it flat, level, and ultra smooth is another. Doing in stages could be an option, but anything over 10-12 ft wide is impossible to strike off with a 2x6. You need a professional that mainly does large slabs for a living. You might think it's a lot of money to pay now, but when you have to jackhammer it all out and start over later you'll wish you had it a pro do it. There are places to save money and places to spend money. This is a spend the money place.

Tom
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They did my 40x60 in 4 sections, smoothing each one at a time back in 07. Total cost using the best concrete was $8500. He had 6 workers and the gas powered helicopter thing. Hand twowled. Smooth and level as glass, no cracks yet. He did my house garage in 1990 and it has no cracks, both 5-6” thick. Professional
 
continentalsey said:
You need to clearly understand that the first thing that is looked for is durability. Durability is really important. Parquet, even the most durable, massive and engineering board is still wood. And the service life is limited. Concrete is an almost eternal material, unless, of course, everything is done correctly on cement of at least M400 grade. Such a floor is not afraid of sharp heels and claws of pets. Unlike cork flooring and linoleum, there will be no traces of furniture legs on it. If the concrete floor serves perfectly in the garage, where cars drive on it, then there will be no problems with it at all in the house.
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WTH?
 
For a pole barn you can save the concrete till last. I'll be doing it myself for a 36 x 50. planning on doing it in sections so the truck can get to it without a pump. I'm estimating $3500 for ~5" and then about $1500 in rebar.
 
Loggato said:
For a pole barn you can save the concrete till last. I'll be doing it myself for a 36 x 50. planning on doing it in sections so the truck can get to it without a pump. I'm estimating $3500 for ~5" and then about $1500 in rebar.
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Saving the concrete flooring for last is the correct way of doing it, if you plan on a lot of weight being on it. If the floor drops because of the weight, your walls will not crack. It's called a "floating slab" and the only problem with them are ants coming into the building, being there will be a crack between the floor and walls. Not sure why you would use rebar when a 6" X 6" wire mesh would be fine. Sometimes I would use rebar at corners or any other weak areas, as a thin spot, but not everywhere. Poured a driveway once and did use rebar because it was used for a heavy tile truck, that would be loaded at times. Gross weight was, 12,000 lbs.
 
Swinger 340 said:
Saving the concrete flooring for last is the correct way of doing it, if you plan on a lot of weight being on it. If the floor drops because of the weight, your walls will not crack. It's called a "floating slab" and the only problem with them are ants coming into the building, being there will be a crack between the floor and walls. Not sure why you would use rebar when a 6" X 6" wire mesh would be fine. Sometimes I would use rebar at corners or any other weak areas, as a thin spot, but not everywhere. Poured a driveway once and did use rebar because it was used for a heavy tile truck, that would be loaded at times. Gross weight was, 12,000 lbs.
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Do you think for a shop floor that mesh will be enough?? it's been an ongoing debate in my head. heaviest thing that'll be on it will be my 3/4 ton truck
 
Loggato said:
Do you think for a shop floor that mesh will be enough?? it's been an ongoing debate in my head. heaviest thing that'll be on it will be my 3/4 ton truck
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I did #2 on 12" centers. 36x48, 4" deep with cross beams dug in. Took 34 yards to do. Been up for almost 3 years and no cracks. it was done by local pros in day and I don't regret the bill one bit.

There is a channel on YT called R&R buildings. They pour pylons and use some special bracket they insert into the top of the pylons to lock them in, then when the build the walls, the raise them as a unit and bolt the posts to the brackets. They seem to know what they are doing. I like their work methods. Worth a look.
 
Cuda416 said:
I did #2 on 12" centers. 36x48, 4" deep with cross beams dug in. Took 34 yards to do. Been up for almost 3 years and no cracks. it was done by local pros in day and I don't regret the bill one bit.

There is a channel on YT called R&R buildings. They pour pylons and use some special bracket they insert into the top of the pylons to lock them in, then when the build the walls, the raise them as a unit and bolt the posts to the brackets. They seem to know what they are doing. I like their work methods. Worth a look.
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That is interesting. I've never seen anyone use #2 for anything other than edge reinforcement.
 
6PakBee said:
That is interesting. I've never seen anyone use #2 for anything other than edge reinforcement.
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Well I'll be the first to tell you I'm not a concrete guy but I did stay at a holiday in... Oh wait...

Actually I was going off the recommendation of my father who started and sold a couple of concrete companies over the years and was mason before that. Spent of life doing construction etc.

And I miss-wrote.. it was/is #3 (3/8) rebar.

is #2 overkill , probably way overkill but it's looking good and the extra cost down here in TX wasn't that bad really. his opinion on the mesh wasn't bad, just that unless you lay it "just so" it isn't as consistently located within the concrete so why not just lay something that is already flat and easy to work.

Again, I'm not a crete guy so go with what you are comfortable with.
 
Never used mesh. It's smaller in diameter and can break easier, which defeats the purpose, compared to rebar. Most always use 1/2, 5/8, and 3/4 rebar
 
Loggato said:
Do you think for a shop floor that mesh will be enough?? it's been an ongoing debate in my head. heaviest thing that'll be on it will be my 3/4 ton truck
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If fully loaded, it would weight around 9,000 lbs, and should be fine with just mesh. Now if you would install a lift, I may want to add footers with some rebar where the posts would be, if it was me. Shops all over do not use footers, but just install the lifts and have no problem. Note: Rebar in 4" concrete could crack or pop due to not being thick enough, that is why I suggest a footer where used. Hope we are not getting off topic.
 
My lift required a minimum of 4" of 4000lb concrete. Need to follow the manufactures recommendation on that. Make sure you build to whomever makes the lift you'll use, specs out.
 
Im about to tackle a 30x40 pole shed myself to for first time cant afford to pay the inflation on this deal i got quoted $8500 and thats me buying crete, framing buying rebar and setting rebar, all they had.to do is pour and finish. No thanks
 
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Josh owen said:
Im about to tackle a 30x40 pole shed myself to for first time cant afford to pay the inflation on this deal i got quoted $8500 and thats me buying crete, framing buying rebar and setting rebar, all they had.to do is pour and finish. No thanks
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Wow that’s a lot for just labor, half a day job at most.
 
^^^^exactly and that was the average of 5 quotes its insane. The problem is people keep paying these prices so they keep creeping them up and up. Im building the pole shed myself might as well pour it to.
 
Josh owen said:
^^^^exactly and that was the average of 5 quotes its insane. The problem is people keep paying these prices so they keep creeping them up and up. Im building the pole shed myself might as well pour it to.
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My son just had a 2,000 ft driveway installed, $9,000 for everything. Your talking about 1,200 ft., something is wrong here. I thought the $9,000 was a lot.
 
I did find a company a guy ive known with forever that said he would do $5500 if i pay now and I don't touch a thing but said it.wont be poured this year. I trust him but he's not the owner so that seems to sketchy for me.
 
Josh owen said:
I did find a company a guy ive known with forever that said he would do $5500 if i pay now and I don't touch a thing but said it.wont be poured this year. I trust him but he's not the owner so that seems to sketchy for me.
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I hope you are kidding. As he said, "won't be poured this year" or next year or in ten years. Would not pay anything unless it is for material on site and balance (labor) upon completion. A company or not, business is business.
 
I told him if you cant pour it by then end of June then im good, i work 7 days a week at my job and my farm i work to hard to hand money over. Especially today when everyone seems to be out to rip people off to gain an extra dollar. But no i wasnt joking that was what he said to me. Like im some kind of moron to.fork over 5500 cash and "might not be poured this year"
 
Josh owen said:
I told him if you cant pour it by then end of June then im good, i work 7 days a week at my job and my farm i work to hard to hand money over. Especially today when everyone seems to be out to rip people off to gain an extra dollar. But no i wasnt joking that was what he said to me. Like im some kind of moron to.fork over 5500 cash and "might not be poured this year"
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Thanks Josh, I feel better about you now. When it's time to do your slab, write the check to the concrete co., if you are not using a legit company. GOOD LUCK, on your new garage,
 
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