HELP! transmission case repair?

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str12-340

str12-340

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Today I went to to install the fittings for the transmission lines in my freshly rebuilt A500 (RH42). As I tightened up the fitting the part of the case that is threaded for the fitting broke apart. Is there anything that can be done to repair this or do I just have to find a whole new case and have the internals swapped?

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The hard part is keeping the trash out of the trans while you're fixing it. Stuff some steel wool down in there but just use one hard chunk. Something that you can get out later with tweezers. Cut off all the broken uneven part and drill down in there and cut new threads. I think you can use the original fitting if you can find the right size tap.
 
I spose it COULD be welded and re-tapped, but fairly costly. And you'll have to tear it down "bare" to get it clean and clean up afterwards. On the other hand, those girls are not that easy to find.

You should not need to get them very tight. That is pipe thread which is tapered, so as it goes in it stretches the case. BE CAREFUL. Use sealer and "no more than snug"
 
I'd maybe try cutting it off flush and redrilling/tapping. You may have to go one size larger though. I believe they are 1/8" npt, right? It may take a 1/4 npt to clean it up - that is, if there's enough meat for some threads.
 
As a professional welder- that looks really clean. A lot of the Ford transmissions are made from an aluminum that absorbs everything and anything. Take it to a really good weld shop and explain the situation. They may be able to cut off what’s left of the nub and flush it off. Make a new boss and heliarc it back together and there is a good chance it will be better than before. Any questions pm me. Joe
 
A reputable welding shop should be able to take care of that. I've TIG welded cast aluminum steering box housings before and that looks a ton cleaner, much nicer casting.
 
What do you guys think a professional welding shop would charge to make that repair? Or at least weld it up so he could drill and tap it?
 
I’m Connecticut I would get about $500.00
If that was brought into my shop with no guarantee mind you. There are a lot of variables to consider - but again yours looks really clean and that cooler line has not a lot of pressure. I believe it’s like 35-50psi. If you choose the different case route be mindful of how much you crank those fittings down. It is easy to over torque and steel fitting or bolt into aluminum. Good luck which ever route you choose.
 
No welding. See, what nobody is considering (except ME) is that that's an INLET hole. It has to stay CLEAN. And welding will fry that gasket next to it. Just do like I said and cut it off and re-tap it and install the original fitting, or go look at Lowe's broad selection of brass fittings that could be used to extend it out from the case. This isn't really a big deal to fix. Worst case scenario, you make mess of the hole and have to use JB weld to seal it up around the new fitting. NUMBER ONE is to cram something in there FIRST that you can pull back out when you're done.
 
CudaFactHackJob said:
No welding. See, what nobody is considering (except ME) is that that's an INLET hole. It has to stay CLEAN. And welding will fry that gasket next to it. Just do like I said and cut it off and re-tap it and install the original fitting, or go look at Lowe's broad selection of brass fittings that could be used to extend it out from the case. This isn't really a big deal to fix. Worst case scenario, you make mess of the hole and have to use JB weld to seal it up around the new fitting. NUMBER ONE is to cram something in there FIRST that you can pull back out when you're done.
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You think you're the only one that knows it's an open passage into the transmission? C'mon man.

By far the worst part of that operation for "keeping it clean" will be retapping that hole like you suggest. In reality the thing should be disassembled for any kind of repair. But this is aluminum welding not MIG with flux core, spatter isn't an issue. And not frying that gasket shouldn't be a problem for any welder capable of that repair. Aluminum melts at half the temperature of steel, and the gasket itself should be able to withstand a couple hundred degrees. The gasket is the easy part. Still might not find a shop that will weld on anything other than a bare case.

Using JB weld on a threaded inlet that sees pressure and will be attached to a line that's going to vibrate is just setting the stage for the day you're going to be sitting on the side of the road covered in transmission fluid waiting for a tow.
 
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72bluNblu said:
Using JB weld on a threaded inlet that sees pressure and will be attached to a line that's going to vibrate is just setting the stage for the day you're going to be sitting on the side of the road covered in transmission fluid waiting for a tow.
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What he said ^^^^^^^
 
Oh no, am I involved in a controversy?!? JB Weld has it's place, and I've used it for many many repairs and modifications. I actually have used it to repair inlet castings on TF transmissions!Lots of friendly advice on here on how NOT to fix this problem..."replace the case"...."do it right"..."any competent welder"...you guys are DREAMERS...not dealing with the reality of the situation. For me, this is a twenty minute fix. For some of you guys, it's a days long job involving over a thousand dollars...but you wanna "do it right"...Oh, and this is not "an open passage into the transmission"...if it was, there would be no need to avoid contamination.
 
I’d look for a new case. Check your local transmission repair shops. They might have a case in their junk pile.
 
OP....Have you asked a transmission shop? I'm sure that they have seen this before. I too would be leery heading out for a long road trip with "will it hold" in the back of my mind. Stress you don't need.
 
Some people are just helpless when it comes to actually fixing something instead of buying new. Is it fear? I guess I'd be scared too if I was helpless...hahaha..those that can...DO...those that can't...AAMCO!!
 
CFD244 said:
Time to hit the "unwatch" button Rob:)
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No, I just caint believe people are advocating trying to repair that. To get it done professionally will cost more than another case. All in the name of being lazy and not swapping guts to another case. Makes no sense. ZERO.
 
I'm not advocating "trying" to repair that. I know I can repair it; no big deal. "Lazy"?? Face it; there are people in this world who can do things easily that scare you to even try...If you can't drill and tap a hole in ALUMINUM....you're HOPELESS.
 
CudaFactHackJob said:
I'm not advocating "trying" to repair that. I know I can repair it; no big deal. "Lazy"?? Face it; there are people in this world who can do things easily that scare you to even try...If you can't drill and tap a hole in ALUMINUM....you're HOPELESS.
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IMHO......You don't sound like a very nice person. Give the OP your advice and move on. Who cares how he does it in the end. That's his choice after hearing varying opinions.
 
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