School Me! Rope Style Oil Seal

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eekvonzipper

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Would someone please school me on how to install the old rope-style rear main seal?
and what the extra little pieces are?
I'm assuming that they sit in the Main Cap (as pictured) before it goes in?
Use any Sealant on this???
Gonna set the Crank into a '65 273
and need to do this right the 1st time.
Thank You for any help.

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Find the nearest trash can and install it there, then get a good modern rubber seal.
 
When I have needed to do a rope seal, I used a wooden bare hammer handle and
just rolled the rope seal in the block moving up one side and down the other. You
want to take your time, and make sure it is as firm and tight as possible in the block! Just
be very careful when it comes time to cut the seal ends as straight as you can, and flush with the block. Good luck with your install!
 
Send me your address through a PM and I'll send you a rubber seal for free. You should dump that rope seal in my opinion. 65'
 
Well, 1st Attempt Failed... I snugged down the Rear Cap and the Crank wouldn't turn...
 
Lotta folks seem to have zero actual experience with rope seals....
Yes they are more work to install, the actual reason auto makers quit using ropes seals was more about speed of building an engine assemble than a better solution...

Rope seals tend to weep a little oil but it's very rare to have one actually pour out oil... Even with 100K miles they rarely truly leak... Rubber lip seals often weep too though some actually stay dry (Pretty rare) But when a lip seal goes it's common to have it pouring oil...

Yes the modern interpretation of a rope seal isn't as good as the original rope seals were.... Originals had asbestos in the seal, modern ones are graphite embedded...

I watched a few minutes of the video, it seems to cover the basics....
 
Well, 1st Attempt Failed... I snugged down the Rear Cap and the Crank wouldn't turn...
That's typical when you don't mash the seal down enough before hand and you don't cut enough off the ends. I always used a razor blade and cut flush with the block and the cap. I also smooth on a light layer of motor oil on both the block side and cap side of the seal and put a dab of RTV on the cut ends to assure a good seal.

Rope seals work, but they can be a pita and they can leak easier than a rubber seal, because they are finniky to get right. The rubber seals are light years ahead and much easier to install. Until fairly recently though, the rope seals were all you could get for some GM V8 engines, like Pontiac, for example.
 
Lotta folks seem to have zero actual experience with rope seals....
Yes they are more work to install, the actual reason auto makers quit using ropes seals was more about speed of building an engine assemble than a better solution...

Rope seals tend to weep a little oil but it's very rare to have one actually pour out oil... Even with 100K miles they rarely truly leak... Rubber lip seals often weep too though some actually stay dry (Pretty rare) But when a lip seal goes it's common to have it pouring oil...

Yes the modern interpretation of a rope seal isn't as good as the original rope seals were.... Originals had asbestos in the seal, modern ones are graphite embedded...

I watched a few minutes of the video, it seems to cover the basics....
I agree 100% with that assessment. I think speed and ease of assembly was probably the reason for the changeover. But rope seals do leak more often, since they are harder to get right. Once right though, they work well....and yes, you hit the nail on the head about the asbestos being gone. That's big brother trying to take care of us again. That was really good stuff that served a very needed purpose. I don't think there's anything else on the market that could stand up to heat like it could.
 
IIRC, Doug Dutra has a very nice detailed write write up in his Slant Six book.

The book came out after I had rebuilt my 225. Having said that, I'd use a neoprene anyway.

Also less drag so you gain a little HP.
 
Rope seal materials have changed thru the years I believe the original ones were asbestos which are no longer made but I read an article about 10 years ago that touted a graphite impregnated material. but I don't remember the source.
 
Rope seal materials have changed thru the years I believe the original ones were asbestos which are no longer made but I read an article about 10 years ago that touted a graphite impregnated material. but I don't remember the source.
You said impregnated. ahhh hahaha ahhh hehhehheh
 
Why bother. Modern seals work much better. I did this for a living, I wouldn’t put a rope seal in an engine if you paid me extra.. and I have been taught how to install them. Makes no sense with modern technology
 
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Alright, Enough. I just didn't know!
I thought "Early Barracuda" old skool stuff.
Never occurred to me that a modern seal would work in that early 273, but I'm Really glad it does!
Goin' together tomorrow...
Thanks to Everyone!

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And if you do , then use the newer viton double lip seal.
 
And if you do , then use the newer viton double lip seal.

Definitely get the best seal. I was told by someone on here to trim it. That didn’t work. I called the manufacturer & they told me to install it as it comes. That worked out well, but took me two tries due to bad advice.
 
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