Suspension Recommendations

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nodemon

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I'm looking for recommendations on a front suspension kit for my 72 Demon. I don't have a ton of cash, so no top of the line options will work.
Wanting choices that you've used and you're happy with.
I've been told I should convert to disc brakes in front. Open to opinions and options. I currently have 14", small bolt pattern Rallye wheels and would like to keep them if possible.
Thanks in advance..!
John
 
Stock rebuilt Kelsey Hayes 4 piston caliper disc brakes all on the torsion bars of your chosen size. The stock style Mopar suspension is extremely versatile and can do probably more than you'll ever do with your car.
 
I'm looking for recommendations on a front suspension kit for my 72 Demon. I don't have a ton of cash, so no top of the line options will work.
Wanting choices that you've used and you're happy with.
I've been told I should convert to disc brakes in front. Open to opinions and options. I currently have 14", small bolt pattern Rallye wheels and would like to keep them if possible.
Thanks in advance..!
John
I would get the car up on a lift and do a complete review of the existing front and rear suspension and underbody for: wear and corrosion. If you see items there that need attention that may impact your priority list.
As far suspension improvements, new and better modern shocks can make a big difference as well as stiffer larger diameter torsion bars. Folks that are into suspension tuning tend to upgrade shocks and torsion bars from timer to time. Watch the for sale adds or start a parts wanted post. You may be able to get lightly used components at a nice discount from new.
And yes, disk brakes will add a safety margin over drum brakes. The change to disks should be a priority. To keep the SBP the Kelsey Hays 4 piston disk brakes from a 72 and down A body would work. There are probably other SBP options.
Sub frame connectors can also be an inexpensive item to upgrade the cars feel. The subframe connectors available as a ready to install kit can be pricy, but if you or a buddy can weld and has access to a couple if lengths of steel tube, you can build and install them yourself. Google “ home made subframe connectors “.
 
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If you haven't done sub frame connectors I strongly recommend it. I made mine from 1 1/2" x 2" stock and the car handles much better. Cheap....was less than $60 + some time to cut and weld. That size doesn't require you to cut the floor pan and i was able to clear the parking brake cable as well.
 
If I was on a budget i'd look at my cheapest disc brake conversion and big bolt pattern. MAke sure the shocks at least function.

The rest can wait.
 
PirateJack has a front (and rear) disc conversion that uses all new components and let's you keep 5 on 4, and 14"wheels.
I have not used any of his stuff personally.
 
Your first choice would be brake choice. Then order a kit for your choice of brakes due to lower ball joint differences with brakes chosen. Get the kit from from PST. Your spindles you use determine the kit you'll order. Stay away from the poly kit or you may run into strut rod bushing fitment issues on pre 73 cars
 
I'm looking for recommendations on a front suspension kit for my 72 Demon. I don't have a ton of cash, so no top of the line options will work.
Just for clarification- by "front suspension kit", do you mean you are looking for a rebuild kit for your stock front suspension, or an upgrade kit to further improve your handling?
 
PirateJack has a front (and rear) disc conversion that uses all new components and let's you keep 5 on 4, and 14"wheels.
I have not used any of his stuff personally.

PirateJack is just a ‘73+ disk brake conversion with the rotors drilled for 5x4” and the hub turned down a little bit. The hub may still not fit into the hub bore on the original SBP rallye’s.

DoctorDiff sells this same kit now, except you’ll get much better quality parts and actual customer service.
 
John, it all depends on how much money is available. Usually there are one or two worn out parts that make it drive bad. Find and replace the bad parts and have it aligned by someone that know old cars.

These chineese kit parts these days aren’t that good quality and some of the old parts under your car may work just fine.

What kind of driving are you doing with this car? How much power does it have? Disc brakes are nice but are not absolutely necessary.
 
Just for clarification- by "front suspension kit", do you mean you are looking for a rebuild kit for your stock front suspension, or an upgrade kit to further improve your handling?
A rebuild kit, I suppose. There's a kit on eBay that I've had my eye on, but not sure if it's the right move.
Just for clarification- by "front suspension kit", do you mean you are looking for a rebuild kit for your stock front suspension, or an upgrade kit to further improve your handling?
 
As others have already suggested, if money is an issue you should start with what needs to be replaced rather than just wholesale replacing everything.

And it depends on the kit, some have stuff you don’t need and others won’t have things you do need. The brakes also make a difference in some of those kits.

There are also a few different forum vendors that sell suspension parts. PST gives a 10% discount for FABO members. Bergman Autocraft has some really nice parts of your goal is improved handling.
 
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John, it all depends on how much money is available. Usually there are one or two worn out parts that make it drive bad. Find and replace the bad parts and have it aligned by someone that know old cars.

These chineese kit parts these days aren’t that good quality and some of the old parts under your car may work just fine.

What kind of driving are you doing with this car? How much power does it have? Disc brakes are nice but are not absolutely necessary.
This car has not seen the road in at least 15...maybe 20 years.. Everything bushing I can see is dry rotted completely. I'd like to replace all bushings, ball joints, etc... If I can get away with spending 1k or less, I'd be good with that.
 
So this is a good example of what I was talking about with that kit.

It includes lower ball joints, but those are different for drum brakes vs disks.

It has camber bolts that you might not need at all. Same for the tie rod sleeves. And same for the end links if you don’t have a sway bar.

The upper ball joints will be for the small ball joint UCA’s, if you use a 73+ disk kit you may want to just go to large ball joint UCA’s vs using a ball joint sleeve.

So depending on the rest of your plans and your own parts, you could end up paying for stuff you don’t need or can’t use.
 
Check out PST , they are a sponsor/vendor here and you get a member discount , you have to call them and they will help guide you to what you need. Way cheaper than $1000.
I think it cost me about 300 a couple years ago.
 
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i found it cheaper to buy my stuff from rockauto
in one order, adjusted so all parts came from 1 wharehouse.
kits are nice but kits are expensive and you get stuff you don't need or it is spoiled by after market parts that you don't need or do not improve in anyway over what was there from the factory originaly.

if you want an anti sway bar now is the time to change to the lower arms with the sway bar mounting tabs on

moog upper bushes
moog lower bushes
upper bump stops (any)
lower bump stops (any)
moog improved strut rod bushes (follow their instructions not your workshop manual which was written year specific for the oem bush fitted that day in the factory)
i went for a three 555 lower balljoints the best of a very small pool of manufatueers for RHD cars like mine (japanese RHD mopar joints Sankei three555 make parts for moog anyway mainly for toyotas )
I went for NOS A body uppers

i needed 1 new camber bolt washer

with hindsight my upper joints were probably fine, its the lowers that wear out
my track rod ends needed doing i just purchased any with the seal i wanted and branded by a company name i recognised

with all joints i looked for a manufactuere who included the orginal style plastic-rim seals, like a taperd top hat seal rather than anything with the brand x baloon style balljoint boot set up which are throw away items, crap in this application, they don't stay put

i put big block A body torsion bars in becasue i had some
i run an anti sway bar as standard
i set my car up at factory ride height front and rear so i could actually get some positive castor

if you can get disk brake spindles for an A body that takes the standard small balljoint then you can fit hubs and standard rotors and you have a choice on calipers

the mounting centres on the spindle = 3.5 inch
any braket based slider caliper from mopar will fit but pay heed to suggestions above regarding what fits with your wheel and you need A F M body brakes not the big stuff

or you could use australian slider caliper and braket these claipers do not fit US brakets 1/16 inch different, pleanty about in Oz 99% of cars from 1969 had disk brakes but obvioulsy import for you. i had some so i used 73 australian girlock 1 piston sliders off a VJ valiant

post 73 US single pot sliders work nice same design slightly bigger sit on the short bracket onky for A body car, the one for 11 inch rotors is too long

or you could bolt the 4 pot sumitomo caliper off a 90s toyota hiliux/4runner/surf
see here
landcruiser caliper upgrade - Mopar Muscle Association UK

or you might get Jaguar XL calipers on

or you could pick up some wilwood that also use the 3.5 inch mounting

you might get datsun 240 z calipers on

any disk brake set up needs a disk brake master...for peace of mind

if you run in your new disks properly then seperate Hub/rotor brakes are fine
if you don't you can warp the rotors

cheap good bang for buck shock is a kyb gas-a-just, wait for holiday weekend, rockauto does a discount on 4
they work ok on a standard ride height car which has not had its weight changed or re distributed
better exist way better exist but not for this money

I used a nolethane Idler bush. beter than rubber not as good as a bearing conversion NOLATHANE STEERING IDLER ARM BUSHES SUITS CHRYSLER VALIANT VC VE VF VG VH 41012 | eBay

i used a new pitman arm but discovred that the only place it wears is the rubber bush sealed into the crimped on head for the stud. if you can weld you can swap this out for nylon or aluminim drill for a zerk so you can grease it and weld the back back on if your local laws allow welding on steering parts 2 tack welds and some sealer .

worked out cheaper in $$ but more expensive in time and effort

i like the way my car handles and i don't expect to have to do this all again

all bolts that clamp bushes done up only....only.... when car at ride height and on all 4 wheels idler included, wheels straight if you use a rubber bushed one

Dave
 
We have many choices of front end kits you can choose from. We have kits with either rubber bushings or if you are looking for improved handling we have polygraphite bushings. These are available it either our standard for super kits depending on how many component you are in need of. Here is a quick link to start from:

PST | Front End Parts | Front End Kits | Suspension Rebuild Kits

As for disc brakes we have a couple of options. We have a leed brakes kit that will allow you to use 14" wheels that use a KH style caliper or we have wilwood as well. If you want to go to the 73-76 single piston caliper brake conversion you will need to upgrade to a 15" wheel.

Please let me know exactly what you are looking for and I can point in the right direction.

Also as a member of the forum you are eligible for 10% off orders of $200 or more and free shipping within the US 48 states.

Thanks
James From
PST
 
I put the Wilwood Forged Dynalite Pro 140-11022 disc brake conversion on my dart and have been satisfied with them. They are not slotted or cross drilled but I don't do any autocrossing with it so that is not a concern for me. My car had nine inch drums but they make a kit for ten inch as well 140-11023 and the 14" aftermarket wheels I have fit fine. I don't know about the diameter of the spindle hub as far as fitting the original rallye wheels. They are basically the same set up as the original factory discs. Also they are for 4" and 4.5" bolt pattern but the studs are 1/2" so all I had to do was buy 10 new shank style lug nuts in 1/2" instead of 7/16". With this kit they claim the difference in the track from the car's centerline is only .100" outboard of original position.
 
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We have all the options covered.
We are the only vendor to offer complete steering kits, complete suspension kits and brake kits. We even have high performance pads and shoes lined with Carbon Kevlar. We always pick up the phone and have tons of experience
Bergmanautocraft.com
 
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