what sealant did the factory use?

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el5dart

el5dart

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hey guys, when i had my body stripped to metal and after paint i missed two spots when sealing the body back up. i thought it was my rear glass leaking but it turns out its body seams leaking at the bottom left and right corners of the rear glass where the quarter panels and the panel in between the quarters in front of trunk lid come together. pinch weld area under rear glass rubber in the bottom corners. i now have to pull the back glass out and seal it up there.

does anyone know what was used to seal in these areas from the factory? so i don't buy the wrong stuff.
 
These seams on either side of the trunk filler panel?

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Tan in color, smooth with a wet finger quick before it sets. Let dry 24 hours then paint.

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A bit spendy, compared to doing body work it's not. Can use it on lots of seams, keeps well once opened for future use.

Cleans up with fast dry enamel reducer.
 
Lord Fusor is also another great product. Lots of professional restoration shops use it. It's not cheap. It's good.
 
here is where my leaks are on both sides. whatever the factory put there must have been blasted off. where you see the rust is where the water is pouring in at.

i was just wondering what the factory used in those spots.

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Window weld urethane, it sticks to glass, it sticks to rubber, it is black.

Can go around the window rubber with a fine bead. Wear some mechanics Gloves, hard to get off your skin.

Can smooth It in with a wet finger quick before it sets. Can paint after cured if you need to.

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Went around my whole '76 D100 windshield to fill in the poor fitting gaps and seal it from any water getting in.
 
Be sue to read instructions. I applied mine to bare metal but required application to painted surface. They make both types so make sure you get what you need.
 
I be danged if I would want "what the factory used". I would want something that's actually in the 21st century. Technology has advanced by LEAPS and BOUNDS compared to the sealer the factory used. If I were you, I'd go talk to a local high end paint/body/restoration shop and see what they use.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I be danged if I would want "what the factory used". I would want something that's actually in the 21st century. Technology has advanced by LEAPS and BOUNDS compared to the sealer the factory used. If I were you, I'd go talk to a local high end paint/body/restoration shop and see what they use.
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Think the good auto body shops use a two part product.
 
jawbone said:
Think the good auto body shops use a two part product.
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I think that's correct for the most part. I recommended Lord Fusor. It's a two part self leveling clearish sealant. It's especially good for the drip rails.
 
i appreciate the suggestions. i will use one of them for sure. i am not opposed to using non factory products. but what i don't know is whether or not the stuff the factory used stays soft or gets hard. i would guess it gets hard so the window rubber doesn't rub it down with vibrations and whatnot.
 
el5dart said:
i appreciate the suggestions. i will use one of them for sure. i am not opposed to using non factory products. but what i don't know is whether or not the stuff the factory used stays soft or gets hard. i would guess it gets hard so the window rubber doesn't rub it down with vibrations and whatnot.
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DOMINION SURE SEAL - it comes in black and grey - it's not a 2K product but it will last just as long, if not longer.
 
sscuda said:
DOMINION SURE SEAL - it comes in black and grey - it's not a 2K product but it will last just as long, if not longer.
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I tried it. Twice. It's all cracked up in the drip rails on Vixen. I did it right too. Twice. I'm going to spend the money on a good product next time. I've even recommended the Dominion here before. It went on really easily and looked really good. I cannot recommend it anymore though.
 
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