Cast to forged crank

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furyus2

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I have a complete 440 cast crank engine.
I also have a forged crank.
Can I put the forged crank into my cast crank engine without changing the rods, and pistons?
 
What about balance, especially if the forged crank came out of an unknown engine?
 
Yep. I have a 76 cast crank 440 that I built using a 69 forged crank. Make sure you use the correct balancer and flywheel/converter.
 
Yes, if you use the right balancer and flexplate/converter, or flywheel. I would pull a piston and rod, and get the crank balanced to it.
 
383, 413, 426, 440 RB crank?
High or low compression pistons?
440-6 crank - bigger rods?

Gotta check the crank balance to the rods/pistons you want to put on it. Engine will be apart.
 
Honestly you're probably better off just leaving the cast crank in there. I've never had one break and I've ran the Hell out of them running a roller cam and drag racing it. Can it be done Yes, will it be easy and cost effective No. There are several versions of a forged crank depending on what rods were used and as previously mentioned you have to use the correct damper and flexplate. The only true way to get all correct is to have the entire assembly balanced. I just wouldn't get hung up on going through all the hassle and expense for just a forged crank.

Tom
 
The cast crank will handle 600hp. As stated is best to change the crank when doing a complete build and rebalanced. Six pack rods were used in 440 truck motors thru 78. I toss those heavy *** rods into the scrap pile.
 
Cast crank is almost as strong as the forged, because like Ford, Chrysler used nodular cast iron. It's much stronger. Also has the benefit of being a good bit lighter, too. I don't think I'd change it.
 
It's physically possible yes, I wouldn't without the block seeing a line hone & the crank at least polished.
There's a dude running a blower on a cast crank 440 engine & for a long time, I don't think it's necessary to change it out.
 
Im running a cast crank in my 613hp 440 and running a 150 shot on top of that.... Im at 750-ish on the bottle, I was nervous at first too but I've watched a guy run 9.30's on a 250 hp nitrous hit on his 440 in a 3700lb car for years without issue.
 
Im running a cast crank in my 613hp 440 and running a 150 shot on top of that.... Im at 750-ish on the bottle, I was nervous at first too but I've watched a guy run 9.30's on a 250 hp nitrous hit on his 440 in a 3700lb car for years without issue.
And there you have it. Cast cranks ain't the debble. Lawd hammercy.
 
Only hiccup of using the cast crank would be if you intend on using a standard transmission. There wouldn't be any factory provisions for a trans input shaft. If using an auto, then no worries.
 
Only hiccup of using the cast crank would be if you intend on using a standard transmission. There wouldn't be any factory provisions for a trans input shaft. If using an auto, then no worries.
That's a very valid point. Also, the cast cranks normally cannot be drilled to accommodate a manual transmission, without using the pilot bearing that presses into the crank register and cutting about 3/4" off of the transmission input shaft. If you try to drill them, you'll break into the crankshaft's oil galley. That would suck.
 
Thanks for everything guys. I have a cast crank 446 that is coming out of my Sport Fury, and will be replaced with a 505.
I ended up with a nice forged crank, and was wondering if it would be worth the effort.
I think I will just keep it as a cast crank engine. It has been a great engine. It went low 12's. I am not sure what I would use it in. I will just have to freshen it up after I finish the 505. Again, thanks.
 
Thanks for everything guys. I have a cast crank 446 that is coming out of my Sport Fury, and will be replaced with a 505.
I ended up with a nice forged crank, and was wondering if it would be worth the effort.
I think I will just keep it as a cast crank engine. It has been a great engine. It went low 12's. I am not sure what I would use it in. I will just have to freshen it up after I finish the 505. Again, thanks.


I would feel safe getting well into the 10's on cast crank...
 
Im running a cast crank in my 613hp 440 and running a 150 shot on top of that.... Im at 750-ish on the bottle, I was nervous at first too but I've watched a guy run 9.30's on a 250 hp nitrous hit on his 440 in a 3700lb car for years without issue.
That's Pretty Brutal Man!
 
That's a very valid point. Also, the cast cranks normally cannot be drilled to accommodate a manual transmission, without using the pilot bearing that presses into the crank register and cutting about 3/4" off of the transmission input shaft. If you try to drill them, you'll break into the crankshaft's oil galley. That would suck.
Ain't they got some roller bearing conversion? Not that I'd ever go that way, personally, just for forum record? Lol
 
Ain't they got some roller bearing conversion? Not that I'd ever go that way, personally, just for forum record? Lol
Yes, that's the one I was referring to that presses into the crank register. Since the crank is still not drilled, and cannot be, that's why you have to cut generally about 3/4" off the end of the input shaft. Lots of people have done it. Doesn't hurt a thing.
 
Yes, that's the one I was referring to that presses into the crank register. Since the crank is still not drilled, and cannot be, that's why you have to cut generally about 3/4" off the end of the input shaft. Lots of people have done it. Doesn't hurt a thing.
Cool Man, it's Great Knowledge Y'all Share here! I'll never get a 4 spd again, Id have to sell the whole darn car to buy one! Lol, now about that ball bearing that fell outta my 70s BB 727 when I tried to lift the RM VB from it for my 83 Small block Van Trans.... lol! Just kiddin' Rob! It DID Happen, but ain't going there Here! Lol hope Y'all Are Doing Good!
 
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