1968 340 AVS 4425S carb replacement

-
Joe1972dart

Joe1972dart

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 9, 2019
Messages
70
Reaction score
14
Location
New York
Hows it going guys, I am looking on a replacement carb for a 1968 gts 340 auto. What would be the best/correct bolt on carb with non electric choke (has the thermostat choke in the intake) for the car. I do know that Edelbrock makes replacement avs carbs, but would be the correct cfm for the car?
Any help would be appreciated
Thank you
Joe
 
Last edited:
The only difference I am aware of between off-road and [ on-road? ] is that the off road version has spring loaded needles & seats. I would just get the cheapest. Edel has added venturiis to the secondaries on their AVS version, a big plus for performance in my opinion.
 
I bought a stock 440 AVS carb 700 cfm used from a member here . He said it was fine when taken off just sat around a while. I opened it and it was clean so I threw it on and my 68 340 Eddy headed Dart and it rocks.
It was only like $75 so I didn't have much to lose.
 
Just thinkin'... if you still have the original carb, why not just rebuild it? Or have it rebuilt to "like new":
https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/sidebarbanners/WOODRUFFCARBURETOR.jpg
My main concern with the Eddy carbs is that they're not a direct hookup to your factory choke mechanism, which it sounds like you want to retain. Not sayin' the "manual choke" models can't be made to work, but it isn't made to hook up to the factory choke (intended to be cable operated) so it would still require some mods...
 
If you want something very close to the original, I would seriously consider an Edelbrock 650 Thunder Series carb. If you want more, go with the 750.
 
So a divorce choke would not just slide on to the new carb? I am trying to get something that would more or less be a plug and play carb. I am not sure, but don't these carbs also need an adapter for the Mopar linkage?

We have rebuilt the carb already cleaned out everything and it helped the running condition, but has returned back to acting like blower surge at idle and poor performance when trying to get on it.
 
If the choke will not line up, is there any brackets that could make the choke work? We are trying to keep it looking as stock as possible and would rather not run an electric choke or run a choke cable into the car.
 
I also do know that the throttle holes are set up for a Chevy application and would require a bracket to give full throttle and allow the kickdown to work properly.
 
Is there a way to make the divorced choke work or would we have to set up a electric choke? I would prefer to not run an electric choke or cut holes in the dash for the pull choke.
 
Joe1972dart said:
Is there a way to make the divorced choke work or would we have to set up a electric choke? I would prefer to not run an electric choke or cut holes in the dash for the pull choke.
Click to expand...
There's always "a way", but you would have to figure it out yourself, there is no "kit", so it becomes a matter of how creative you can be or want to be. The aftermarket just doesn't see any profit in tooling stuff like this up- hell, they don't even put a proper Mopar throttle lever on their carbs, you need to buy an extra adapter.
Electric choke is one wire, run from a switched hot circuit- normally from "run". About 18" of wire easily hidden in the engine harness.
 
My last question before pulling the trigger on a carb would be, would I be able to take the "brackets" off the original carb and put them on the new carb? If not it looks like we are going electric.
Thanks again
 
If you go with a new Edlebrock, get a new Edelbrock throttle bracket adapter. Its like $10. Pull the trigger.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top