bore guage

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pishta

pishta

I know I'm right....
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Are these accurate? Seems the diameter of the ends would prevent them from hitting the cylinder wall at the right angle >> (| << to see the entire diameter? Or would you measure across the opposites?
71oSx-AUXYL._SL1500_.jpg
 
so you just measure across flush and take the reading?
 
Yes, they are quite accurate if you have the right touch. You start with the gauge set slightly too wide for they bore at an angle with slight tension on the friction lock. As you sweep the gauge through center it will compress to the smallest diameter which is dead square with the bore. then tighten the friction lock and measure with a micrometer. You will also need a 3-4" or 4-5" micrometer to measure the snap gauge once it's out of the bore obviously. For that money just get one of these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000J4K016/?tag=fabo03-20
 
The ends that make contact with the ID of what you’re measuring are not flat. They have some taper to them.
 
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^good instructions!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thats a good price on a dial bore gauge, but you need standards to certify it.
 
Dubob said:
The ends that make contact with the ID of what you’re measuring are not flat. They have some taper to them.
Click to expand...
but what taper, equal to the smallest bore size for that sized tool?
 
ch1ll said:
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^good instructions!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thats a good price on a dial bore gauge, but you need standards to certify it.
Click to expand...
It comes with that little control piece....:rofl:
 
As C130 Chief stated they can be very accurate. The taper varies with the diameter range of the tool. Smaller has a finer point than the larger one.
 
The advantage of the dial gauge is that you can quickly "map" a bore. Take several reading at different levels, from top to bottom, and at 90 degrees. Zero it to one spot and you'll have a series of quick pluses and minuses from that point. Yes you need a standard to set absolute values, but you need them for micrometers greater than 0-1" as well. If you're going to rely on a set of calipers, than snap gauges are plenty accurate. FWIW a set of decent calipers isn't exactly cheap. These are my go to at work https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I3UA89C/?tag=fabo03-20 I've had cheaper sets, but wouldn't bet my paycheck on them.
 
It's something you have to learn. Really quick learning curve. I always like to say with dial bore gauges, you have to get the "wiggle" right. Play around with it and you'll see.
 
pishta said:
Are these accurate? Seems the diameter of the ends would prevent them from hitting the cylinder wall at the right angle >> (| << to see the entire diameter? Or would you measure across the opposites?
View attachment 1715931317
Click to expand...
I use those for checking ports.
They'll definitely work.
Jegs has a 100 dollar or so bore gauge that works great. That's what I use... but the snap gauges and a micrometer will do it, just takes longer...with the gauge you can just run up n down and see how tapered and oor it is.
 
I've got one of these. Great for checking OOR and taper, but don't give you absolute measurements. I use snap gauges or an inside mic for that.
cca-5605_yk_xl.jpg
 
Dial bore gauge, hands down..
If you want to transfer one measurement gauge to another to get a reading, then that opens a window for getting an error.
 
well, I dont think Ill need the telescoping bore gauge for this '72 1.8....its cooked.
FB_IMG_1653535241380.jpg


For what it costs to sleeve and bore, I can rebuild the '82 2.0 that's already in the truck. It just has lots of blow by due to 230K cylinder wear.

20220525_134625.jpg
 
Do these bore or are they just good parallel hones? can get quite a few grit stones and it says to have a micrometer adjustment as opposed to spring load? wonder if you could go .001 oversize or maybe even .010 with this and a bunch of patience.
LIS16000_1200Wx1200H.jpg
 
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