Rebuilt Engine bearing wear

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I see manifolds in your video. Does your car have a heat riser valve? They can rattle, squeak, clang, and pop. If you have one, I'd suspect it before much else.
 
Every single thing John says in post #21 I agree with.....BUT plastigauge is better than NUTHIN and NUTHIN is what you did. I sure wouldn't repeat that this time around. Measuring clearances at assembly is to make sure everything goes together correctly, AND to catch any inconsistencies from the machine shop. It does happen. Without SOME form of measurement, even "crude" plastigauge, you have no idea "where you are".
I've never heard of a machine shop that didn't have hot tanking the block as part of their machining process, the one's that we used hot tanked the block before the machine work was done and then again afterwards before they would install the cam bearings and freeze plugs. I think that the bearings look good. Something else that people fail to do is to clean up the oil pump pick up tube and the oil pan. Checking the oil pump clearances is a good idea as well as the distance between the oil pump pick up tube and the bottom of the pan. I'm assuming that you replaced the rings too? If you did all this and didn't clean the block by either hot tanking or power washing the block, the rebuild won't last long. Bores have to be clean in order to get the rings to seat and for ring longevity. Believe me, taking short cuts when rebuilding a engine always costs more money in the long run. Cheaper for the most part is not good either, I'm not saying it's not good to shop around for parts and machine work, it's cutting corners.
 
worn lifter bore?
This is one thing I thought about but have no idea what to do about it. It only makes that noise when it's warmed up. I don't see anything in the bottom end that gives me any idea what this noise may be. But it was definitely coming from like the middle area of the engine. But sounded louder on the trans side. Almost made me think torque converter. When I changed my engine oil with everything else warm, the noise was still there. It doesn't do it when on the first start of the day
 
If you replace the bearings in your 360, send me the old bearings and I'll put them in my next build.
Well I have them if you want them. Or I might want them. I have a solid rod knock now. Strange thing is this is EXACTLY what it did when I started my engine for the first time. Same place even. Narrowed it down with a stethoscope. Same exact place. Same exact noise. Last time it went away the next day. This pisses me off. Hopefully it goes away like it did last time. Will update you guys. Machine shop did tell me I may as well replace the bearings while I have the pan off. Now I regret it.
 
Well I have them if you want them. Or I might want them. I have a solid rod knock now. Strange thing is this is EXACTLY what it did when I started my engine for the first time. Same place even. Narrowed it down with a stethoscope. Same exact place. Same exact noise. Last time it went away the next day. This pisses me off. Hopefully it goes away like it did last time. Will update you guys. Machine shop did tell me I may as well replace the bearings while I have the pan off. Now I regret it.
Sorry, but a rod knock doesn't just go away. I hate to suggest this but if you have a rod knock, I think that it would be a good idea to tear it down and have the rods resized and have the crankshaft re checked and possibly turned 0.010 / 0.10. Cutting corners, doing it cheaper always cost more money later on. That's something that my dad told me years ago.
 
Well I have them if you want them. Or I might want them. I have a solid rod knock now. Strange thing is this is EXACTLY what it did when I started my engine for the first time. Same place even. Narrowed it down with a stethoscope. Same exact place. Same exact noise. Last time it went away the next day. This pisses me off. Hopefully it goes away like it did last time. Will update you guys. Machine shop did tell me I may as well replace the bearings while I have the pan off. Now I regret it.

Rod knocks don't come and go. But lifter noise does. Lots of folks think lifter noises are rod noises, but usually they aren't.

A rattle on start up is often a lifter issue. If it comes and goes, the lifter is probably junk. Hard to find good hydraulic lifters these days - assuming yours are hydraulic.
 
Rod knocks don't come and go. But lifter noise does. Lots of folks think lifter noises are rod noises, but usually they aren't.

A rattle on start up is often a lifter issue. If it comes and goes, the lifter is probably junk. Hard to find good hydraulic lifters these days - assuming yours are hydraulic.
I agree with what you say. Rod knock doesn't come and go. The noise Im hearing is 100% rod knock unfortunately. The strange part to me is these bearings are fresh. It made this EXACT noise in the EXACT same area when the previous bearings were fresh. That noise did go away. I know this noise shouldn't go away, but it did last time. We will see this time though... ****
 
What you have is not rod knock. There’s no way a bearing will make noise if there’s oil pressure and 002 clearance. You have lifters that are bleeding down and not pumping up. Remove, disassemble, and clean the lifter check valves.
 
What you have is not rod knock. There’s no way a bearing will make noise if there’s oil pressure and 002 clearance. You have lifters that are bleeding down and not pumping up. Remove, disassemble, and clean the lifter check valves.
See that's what one would think. That what I thought. But it's undeniably rod knock. I have no idea how it's possible but it is. Maybe the machine shop didn't actually check the crank for roundess... but I swear they did. It's the only explanation though. All bearings are in spec.
 
What is your oil pressure cold and at operating temp? If you have a bearing problem, that will tell the tale. There's all kinds of things that can cause a knock.....fuel pump, loose balancer, excessive crank or cam end play, piston slap, flex plate/flywheel bolts, etc.....
 
Looks like it was put together in with motor oil... but not primed before start, a marginally dry start in other words..but regardless the bearings are not damaged.in any way that would need replaced.

Preload on the lifters needs verified/ checked and or a tiny exhaust leak may exist.
 
Looks like it was put together in with motor oil... but not primed before start, a marginally dry start in other words..but regardless the bearings are not damaged.in any way that would need replaced.

Preload on the lifters needs verified/ checked and or a tiny exhaust leak may exist.
I mean this time I put the bearings in with motor oil because it was started less then 2 hours after installing the bearings. The oil filter was filled to the very top. I did not prime the pump but it picked up pressure quickly. I do believe it has an exhaust leak but it also definitely had a rod knock on either cylinder 1 or 2.
 
A rod knock sound will usually change if you kill the spark on it's cylinder. That might help narrow it down to the actual cylinder.
 
A rod knock sound will usually change if you kill the spark on it's cylinder. That might help narrow it down to the actual cylinder.
That's a good idea. Almost 90% positive it's cylinder 1 but I can narrow it. But I don't know why it's knocking... its got fresh bearings the were plastigaged. Only thing I can think is the crank is out of round. Idk. Kinda discouraging.
 
I am absolutely serious. If you are going to toss those bearings, I'll take them. PM me.

BTW, in my short and uneventful life a rod sounds like a rattle, it kind of floats with rpm. A sharp hard knock on the other hand sounds like excessive piston clearance (piston slap).
 
I mean this time I put the bearings in with motor oil because it was started less then 2 hours after installing the bearings. The oil filter was filled to the very top. I did not prime the pump but it picked up pressure quickly. I do believe it has an exhaust leak but it also definitely had a rod knock on either cylinder 1 or 2.
Or a scuffed skirt...dull hollow sound.
 
I am absolutely serious. If you are going to toss those bearings, I'll take them. PM me.

BTW, in my short and uneventful life a rod sounds like a rattle, it kind of floats with rpm. A sharp hard knock on the other hand sounds like excessive piston clearance (piston slap).
This noise is a very rhythmic knock. Definitely sounds like a rod. Let's say that the bearing and crank journal is good (which they both should be). What could cause rod knock? The bearing cap? I just don't see how putting fresh bearings in caused it to have rod knock. This noise wasn't here until I replaced the bearings. It did have this noise on the first day with the old bearings... almost like it had to wear them in. But that's not how bearings work... idk
 
This noise is a very rhythmic knock. Definitely sounds like a rod. Let's say that the bearing and crank journal is good (which they both should be). What could cause rod knock? The bearing cap? I just don't see how putting fresh bearings in caused it to have rod knock. This noise wasn't here until I replaced the bearings. It did have this noise on the first day with the old bearings... almost like it had to wear them in. But that's not how bearings work... idk

Unless you have all your rod caps numbered, it is easy to get them on the wrong piston rod combo.

Connecting rods and their caps are machined as one, don't get them mixed up or you will start to get knocking sounds.
 
I hate to
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but think about this. If you measure the journal and it is acceptable (size and out of round), and the journal surface finish is good, and the bearing clearance is good (Plastigauge or bore gauge/micrometer), and the bearing shows no sign of distress, how can a rod knock occur?
 
I hate to View attachment 1715931434 but think about this. If you measure the journal and it is acceptable (size and out of round), and the journal surface finish is good, and the bearing clearance is good (Plastigauge or bore gauge/micrometer), and the bearing shows no sign of distress, how can a rod knock occur?
That's a damn good question. Maybe since I used old rods the cap may be worn. But the bearing would still show wear... the machinist gave me a bore scope. Looked fine. Wrist pin moved fine when I swapped bearings. Machinist said it doesn't sound like a rod knock. More like something hitting. But that doesn't make sense since it goes away when u unplug cylinder 2. Basically the machinist said see if it goes away or drop the pan and maybe put the old bearing back in.
 
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