Plymouth duster rear suspension questions

Bryan bravo said
All righty well seems the general consensus is that I goofed in ordering this relocation kit. Well it will soon be up for sale lol. Now regarding the springs after making this post seems that the oval track springs are not the best option. I mean they look like a great option and at that price point is a killer deal. However they are on back order for a while so I canceled the order.

That leaves me still needing a relocation kit and a set of springs lol.

I looked into both the Hotchkiss springs and the Dr diff relocation kit but it seems like there's some overlap in the parts namely the front hanger? I wouldn't want to spend money on these kids if I only need one certain aspect of it. I'm still looking to have either 120 or 130 stiff springs.

Any other recommendations on parts or part numbers that would work in junction as a set that I could just slap into my cart and check out. Please don't take this as I'm too lazy to do shopping it's more so I know some of you have traversed this line more proficiently than I have lol. I I would want something that sits flat with the adjustability of the PST torsion bars and is still compatible with the PST Bilstein shocks.

Parts for reference.
Doctor diffs relocation kit

Https://www.doctordiff.com/a-body-offset-spring-hanger-shackle-kit.html

Hotchkiss springs

HOTCHKIS SPORT SUSPENSION SYSTEMS, PARTS, AND COMPLETE BOLT-IN PACKAGES » Blog Archive 1967-1976 Dodge A-Body Geometry Corrected Leaf Springs

You're better off without the circle track springs. I bought them, put about 20 miles on them and threw them in the trash. Photos of the problems are in my build thread. I went with the Hotchkis springs and never looked back. I'm using the old MP offset spring hanger which has two mounting locations. I'm actually in the process of reworking them with 3 holes to have more adjustability because I want to get the back of the car down. In comparing them to the spring hanger that came with the leaf springs, the holes are either higher or lower than the Hotchkis hanger hole location. I'm setting them up with the center hole in the same location as the Hotchkis hanger. That way I have one step up and one down. I'm not familiar with the Dr. D hangers and the relationship of the holes.
I'm running a 10" wheel and a 285 tire with a stock wheel well. I do think a 10.5 or 11" wheel would fit if the wheel lip would be completely flat, mine is just trimmed. The next problem with that is the "hump" in the outer wheel house, but that would likely only be a problem for a really low car.