273 question

-
B

Baby huey

Active Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2022
Messages
35
Reaction score
17
Location
Pasadena
Looking for some help on which way to go. I have a 65 Cuda with a 273 that I have to rebuild. The block needs to be bored. Machine shop wants to go .60 over. Other work needed, heads, crank grinding, camshaft grinding, regular stuff. Around 3500.00 for labor, then buy new pistons, so question is is there a better cheaper way to go on this, do these prices seem in line? It's not a #'s matching car so that's no consideration. Not opposed to another engine, 318 etc.
Thanks.
 
Which transmission do you have? I like a later model engine (especially a 5.2 or 5.9 Magnum) but it would require changes to the converter pilot or changing the transmission with an automatic. Or maybe use the 273 crank in a 5.2 or 318. Mostly commenting to watch, though, I have trouble keeping up with the options of different converter spline counts and crank hub registers. But I really like a 5.2 magnum (along with your choice of timing cover and fuel pump drive) and send the stock cam to Ken at Oregon for a regrind.
:popcorn:
 
Garrett Ellison said:
Which transmission do you have? I like a later model engine (especially a 5.2 or 5.9 Magnum) but it would require changes to the converter pilot or changing the transmission with an automatic. Or maybe use the 273 crank in a 5.2 or 318. Mostly commenting to watch, though, I have trouble keeping up with the options of different converter spline counts and crank hub registers. But I really like a 5.2 magnum (along with your choice of timing cover and fuel pump drive) and send the stock cam to Ken at Oregon for a regrind.
:popcorn:
Click to expand...
Baby huey said:
Looking for some help on which way to go. I have a 65 Cuda with a 273 that I have to rebuild. The block needs to be bored. Machine shop wants to go .60 over. Other work needed, heads, crank grinding, camshaft grinding, regular stuff. Around 3500.00 for labor, then buy new pistons, so question is is there a better cheaper way to go on this, do these prices seem in line? It's not a #'s matching car so that's no consideration. Not opposed to another engine, 318 etc.
Thanks.
Click to expand...
Forgot to add, it's all original, it has the 2bbl 273 w/3 sp auto.
 
Last edited:
For $3500. you can buy a complete, remanufactured long block.
Why so much and why .060 over bore ?
If you did go that route you would need to sonic check the block to see if the block can safely even be bored that much oversize.
 
Did the shop measure anything? Typically, a 273 would have a forged crank which usually only needs polishing. Bore depends on wear, only bore it to what it would take to clean up the cylinders. Rods should be good to go, new cam, lifters, and valve springs, double roller timing chain, new oil pump with high pressure relief spring. Heads will probably need guides, 8 exhaust valves (get stainless steel ones), Viton valve seals, and a good valve job. Not sure how that would add up to $3,500 + parts. It is not a Chevy, I doubt all that work would be required to get a good rebuilt 2 barrel 273. A 318 should also be a bolt in, but would cost pretty much the same to rebuild. Maybe a 5.2 magnum, but those usually need the heads replaced, but not always.
 
I shoulda added this at the beginning..I have to get new heads, both are cracked, #! crank journal has a ding on it somehow. #2 cylinder has a small rust pocket, so I was just going to have it sleeved and bore the others. The shop has another 273 to buy that I was going to cannibalize, but wow costs are crazy.
 
Baby huey said:
Looking for some help on which way to go. I have a 65 Cuda with a 273 that I have to rebuild. The block needs to be bored. Machine shop wants to go .60 over. Other work needed, heads, crank grinding, camshaft grinding, regular stuff. Around 3500.00 for labor, then buy new pistons, so question is is there a better cheaper way to go on this, do these prices seem in line? It's not a #'s matching car so that's no consideration. Not opposed to another engine, 318 etc.
Thanks.
Click to expand...
Tell the machine shop to bore only enough to clean up the bore, a lot of times a 0.020" over bore is all that's needed but a lot of machine shops are to lazy for that as it requires more measuring
 
Dan the man said:
Tell the machine shop to bore only enough to clean up the bore, a lot of times a 0.020" over bore is all that's needed but a lot of machine shops are to lazy for that as it requires more measuring
Click to expand...
Or you can't buy +.020 pistons unless you have them special made.
 
MoparLeo said:
For $3500. you can buy a complete, remanufactured long block.
Why so much and why .060 over bore ?
If you did go that route you would need to sonic check the block to see if the block can safely even be bored that much oversize.
Click to expand...
I've never seen a long block for a mopar for $3,500. The machine shop probably wants to go 0.060" because it's easier for them, due to laziness I had a machine shop admit it
 
Go 318, thousands of them laying around, the later the model (up to 92) the better. If it running all the better, stick it in and go, crank will need a spacer for small snout on vert.
 
Dan the man said:
A 318 is a lot better choice for performance than a 273. It's 45 cubic inches more.
Click to expand...
Let's not go there. Every time there is a 273 thread it always ends up as a pissing match about 318's are bigger, how about a 340, you're a fool not to just put a 360 in it, How about a stroker, Magnum is the only way to go. Gen 3 Hemi and even a LS is the only way to go. Are you tired of it yet? I am!
 
@Baby huey does the $3500 include the shop pulling the engine and replacing it after all the machine work? Basically you pull it in with the original engine and drive out with the rebuilt engine?
 
toolmanmike said:
Let's not go there. Every time there is a 273 thread it always ends up as a pissing match about 318's are bigger, how about a 340, you're a fool not to just put a 360 in it, How about a stroker, Magnum is the only way to go. Gen 3 Hemi and even a LS is the only way to go. Are you tired of it yet? I am!
Click to expand...
I have to agree with you, I shouldn't have said anything. That happens a lot on here, guy's have a hard time just staying with what ever topic is mentioned
 
toolmanmike said:
Let's not go there. Every time there is a 273 thread it always ends up as a pissing match about 318's are bigger, how about a 340, you're a fool not to just put a 360 in it, How about a stroker, Magnum is the only way to go. Gen 3 Hemi and even a LS is the only way to go. Are you tired of it yet? I am!
Click to expand...
Opinions are like buttholes.....everybody has one.
 
toolmanmike said:
Let's not go there. Every time there is a 273 thread it always ends up as a pissing match about 318's are bigger, how about a 340, you're a fool not to just put a 360 in it, How about a stroker, Magnum is the only way to go. Gen 3 Hemi and even a LS is the only way to go. Are you tired of it yet? I am!
Click to expand...

I agree, but say that, most people would happier with a 360, doesn't seem like the OP cares about which engine he runs or even performance, but we all kind of care about performance since most modern sedan, SUV, trucks have same or more hp as classic muscle cars not many like cars slower than 16 second et. I also disagree that 273/318 can't perform just that have draw backs over a 360. Wouldn't fault the OP if sticks with
273 or moves up to 318. But I'd probably just drop a running magnum 5.2/5.9 or if rebuilt is the plan basic 360 4 bbl and mildest of cam with a 904 with lower 1st gear maybe mild stall.
 
If you end up building your engine, get some later heads for more intake manifold options. If you want to keep your intake, good luck in finding good 315 casting heads. That casting seemed to have problems with cracks on the outside of the head for some reason....thin casting there? The '66-7 920 casting heads seem to be better in that respect and still have the same combustion chamber size and shape. The '68-72 675 castings are very good (crackwise) but, have bigger combustion chambers, so, you need to take that into consideration when choosing pistons and compression ratio. Personally, I'd check around for more price quotes. That seem a bit high to me for just machine shop labor, but, hey....prices are going through the roof everywhere else, so, why not with the machinist? Check with members of the local car club or at a cruise night and get some recommendations from the locals. You might even find someone with a good used engine, or one needing less work than yours. Good Luck!
 
Baby huey said:
I shoulda added this at the beginning..I have to get new heads, both are cracked, #! crank journal has a ding on it somehow. #2 cylinder has a small rust pocket, so I was just going to have it sleeved and bore the others. The shop has another 273 to buy that I was going to cannibalize, but wow costs are crazy.
Click to expand...

Scrap that 273, keep the rocker shafts, timing cover and timing tab, and the oil pan and pickup. How much do they want for their 273? I am partial to 273's but I won't sleeve a block. At this point, any small block will do. 273 or 318 will work, depending on cost. Not sure about a magnum as I have not done one yet.
 
Baby huey said:
Thanks for all the information. One thing I know, I'm not doing the 3500.00 route.
Click to expand...
The reason I said 318, $200 tops in a pic a part yard for a core. My 5.9 magnum was out of a truck with an engine fire maybe 5000 miles, for $250. Pull the heads and if no ring groove, rings a bearings, you’re good to go for under a grand easy.
 
I built my 273 and in retrospect I would have rather gone to a 318 or larger. The issue for me is torque. Yes I can spin to 6K but it doesn't wake up until 3K and that is not the range to run a daily driver motor. The sad thing is that I was advised to do just that but I wanted to keep the original motor in the car--------------:-(
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top