I thought I said that. YES WHAT I meant was when I say "same as battery" is not some figure "12 v" I mean it should be "same as what the battery is actually reading." And if the battery is low, do something with that, charge it, test it replace it etc.
You must also understand "a bit" how this works.
Ballast resistor voltage (ANY resistor) is dependent on the load THROUGH it. So with the key "in run" the coil draws current and causes the coil connection to DROP in voltage. Normal. But you need "same as battery" getting TO the resistor and you don't
BUT THAT IS THE RUN circuit, NOT the start circuit
When you twist the key to start, the IGN2 "bypass" circuit comes into play. If you read earlier I talked about checking for spark, I specified "while using the key" to crank. This is important.
If something is wrong with the bypass circuit, the ign. system will not get any/ adequate voltage to start
THE RUN (IGN1) circuit GOES DEAD during "start." The ONLY source if IGN system power for starting is the IGN2 "bypass" circuit. This is a separate wire, comes off a separate contact from the key, and to the coil + side of the ballast
With your meter on coil+ and ground, and twist to start, the coil+ should read "same as battery."