318 Pulley alignment issue...

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H8z2luze

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I read some threads on this issue but couldn't find the exact issue I have. So sorry in advance lol.

Here is what I am dealing with. The 72 Duster I have came with a 360 (not sure what year) Crank was broke. So I got a 318 from a guy to swap in for now until I can build something faster. Anyway the 318 came out of a 69 Truck. I knew I would have to swap the oil pan and pick up which I did. However i realized once it was sat in the car I needed to change the water pump as the outlet was on the drivers side and the radiator was set up for the passenger side. So I got a water pump for a 72 Duster with a 318. Bolted up fine. All good. Well now the tuck pulleys obviously wont work since the water pump snout is different and I am also having a hard time with the "dress up kit" pulleys that were on the 360. It seems the crank pulley and water pump wont line up. The crank is further back. So I did see a crankshaft pulley spacer online that is 1/8" or 1/4" I am not that worried about the Alt as it can be spaced however. I also don'
pulleys.jpg
t have P/S. I just wondered what you guys think I should do in this situation? Try the spacer and hope it gets close or should I swap dampeners? Water pumps? I am at a loss. Thanks in advance. Here is a pic of what I am dealing with.
 
The damper looks to be correct... so I would not mess with that, unless after you purchased the 318 motor, you put the 360 damper on the 318, which I am sure you
do know its a no no. You could tell if ithe balancer is the newer style, as it has a long
area on the face of balancer where its been milled out for external balance. I think I
would purchase 1 of each of the crank pulley spacers and you will be very close. Alot
of the aftermarket aluminum pulleys were not made to exact tolerances.
 
Yours look to be aftermarket pulleys. You need to use either a '70-up set of pulleys and brackets for the aluminum water pump, or, the '69 and earlier pulley and bracket set for the cast iron water pump. You can't mix and match if you want things to line up and spin at the correct RPM.
 
So you just put a '70 and later water pump on a '69 and earlier timing cover? That pump inlet and hose just buried your timing marks. When they switched inlet sides in '70 they also switched the timing marks from the passenger side to the driver's side.
As far as the pullies go, it looks like the crank pulley and the alternator both need to get spaced out almost half a belt width. Ya do what ya gotta do.
 
Yours look to be aftermarket pulleys. You need to use either a '70-up set of pulleys and brackets for the aluminum water pump, or, the '69 and earlier pulley and bracket set for the cast iron water pump. You can't mix and match if you want things to line up and spin at the correct RPM.
These pulleys are all off the 360 that was in it. I didn't check alignment cause the crank was broke and hanging out the front of the block lol. ‍♂️ didn't think about the timing marks. Great. What is your suggestion in this situation? Lol
 
So you just put a '70 and later water pump on a '69 and earlier timing cover? That pump inlet and hose just buried your timing marks. When they switched inlet sides in '70 they also switched the timing marks from the passenger side to the driver's side.
As far as the pullies go, it looks like the crank pulley and the alternator both need to get spaced out almost half a belt width. Ya do what ya gotta do.
I didn't think about the timing marks. ‍♂️ what's the other option? Different radiator?
 
Yep as said mixing and matching sucks. Kinda like Hellen Keller doing a puzzle.
Either go 69 wp with a different rad OR stay with 70+ wp you got(remember timing marks) and buy a matched pulley set for 70+.
Good luck, most of us has been thru this.
 
I didn't think about the timing marks. ‍♂️ what's the other option? Different radiator?
Since this is a temporary engine, I would take the easy way out- make a bracket on one of the driver's side timing cover bolts to serve as a pointer on the balancer- doesn't matter where, as long as it's visible. Find top dead center on #1 and make a corresponding mark on the balancer. Then you can use a standard dial-back timing light to set your timing. (Or use timing tape. Here's a free one: Printable Timing Tape | Degree Tape | All Sizes - Inch (blocklayer.com) ).
 
I really appreciate the input and knowledge guys. I just joined yesterday and have already learned a ton of Mopar knowledge lol. With all the info in consideration I think I am just going to put the 69 WP and pulleys back on and buy a new radiator with both inlet and outlet on the drivers side. Frostbite makes one for $299 with a integrated trans cooler. I say this engine is temporary but I really would like to just get the Duster on the road and then not really mess with it until my other project that is a much larger one is done then go back to this lol.
 
Bouchilon (sp?) makes new sets of replacement stock style pulleys
 
Scrap that, I had it backwards. I might have a 318 balancer if you need it. From a 74 teener. Pulleys, I don’t know. I had a similar problem on a stroker I built. I got a wp pulley spacer and cut pieces of a jack handle to space the alt, one of them small one tons, and it lines up great in an a-100. Are you using the 360 or 318 flywheel/flex plate? Quite sure it has a weight on it for the 360. I also noticed the pulley is too far forward, not back. Sorry that didnt help either.
 
Scrap that, I had it backwards. I might have a 318 balancer if you need it. From a 74 teener. Pulleys, I don’t know. I had a similar problem on a stroker I built. I got a wp pulley spacer and cut pieces of a jack handle to space the alt, one of them small one tons, and it lines up great in an a-100. Are you using the 360 or 318 flywheel/flex plate? Quite sure it has a weight on it for the 360


Everything was from the 318 except the pulleys and the WP was just from a newer year 318. But I ordered a radiator with the inlet and outlet both on the driver side and I will just put all the 318 stuff back on. That should fix all my headaches lol.
 
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