Burn out issues

When I spoke to an ex racer for "back in the day" with a 68 RR he said they had someone push on the right rear quarter, which they no longer allow, and his car did that too. I know the pass usually gets the extra leaf and due to the rotational forces the right rear squats first and probably drives the car to the right. And as pointed out this seems like a common thing. I like the idea of shimming the front spring hanger. I believe I have Mancini stiffening plates on the body but nothing between the hangers and the body.
As far as burn out procedures it's always been the same. Back up into water box, (on all 3 front street tire cars, blip the throttle to wet the tires, (except for street tires which get a dry burn out) step on brakes hard, engage line lock, 2nd gear burn out in 2 automatic trans cars, 2nd gear in stick car, high gear in Lenco shifted Valiant, Actually 3rd gear and then 4th as soon as they start spinning, per Lenco.
My Valiant, which is the only car I really care about as it is a race car only, will start to fishtail as well and pull me out of the groove. Car was launching straight but as I have increased launch rpms, now 5k, the car tends to go a bit to the right and then straight. Spinning my tires bunny hopping a few car lengths then straight down the quarter. Got a best 60 foot of 1.8 .and ran a 10.6 at 132....at LVD about 1000 ft above sea level this weekend. I have a few videos but they are too big to send. I realize the bunny hop is a shock setting issue. Viking DA all around. They suggested I try 9 and 9 in the rear, used to be 2 on compression and 9 on rebound. I'm sure that was the bunny hop.
Anyway I'd rely like to get the car to do a good burn out. Not getting enough heat in my 30x10.5x15 Hoosier drag tires.
Measuring and shimming sounds like a first step. Every Mopar I have run has done this. If I shim the left front hanger back a bit it won't make the car track funny? Or am I just fixing factory slop? Re aligment required afterwards? Thank you all.