[WANTED] Lisle/Sunnen Hone

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pishta

pishta

I know I'm right....
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I want to rent or borrow a 4 stone Sunnen/Lisle 15000 series cylinder hone. The big one with the 4 stones and that weird 1/2" drill forked arbor. Ill buy stones if needed and will send back with new stones. I wanna take a worn 78mm out to <82 to set a sleeve in. Im doing this more for the experience than the need as its an extra block anyway. The other 3 bores are perfect under 97k STD so Im ultimately wanting to hone the <78mm sleeve back to STD and replace the 1 piston and rings. I know its gonna take forever but I got nothing but time for this job. Shop wants $150 for sleeve job. If you think that is cheap, go ahead and Paypal me the money. :p
 
pishta said:
I want to rent or borrow a 4 stone Sunnen/Lisle 15000 series cylinder hone. The big one with the 4 stones and that weird 1/2" drill forked arbor. Ill buy stones if needed and will send back with new stones. I wanna take a worn 78mm out to <82 to set a sleeve in. Im doing this more for the experience than the need as its an extra block anyway. The other 3 bores are perfect under 97k STD so Im ultimately wanting to hone the <78mm sleeve back to STD and replace the 1 piston and rings. I know its gonna take forever but I got nothing but time for this job. Shop wants $150 for sleeve job. If you think that is cheap, go ahead and Paypal me the money. :p
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The problem you'll have is, that when you drive the sleeve into the block, it will distort the cylinder on either side of it, and you'll need to bore them too.
 
I have one of those hones, but it needs new stones, and wipers. After you price the replacement parts, I think you will consider $150 for the shop a bargain.
You will probably need at least two different grit stones, your talking about honing approx .157, you'll need a course set for that, then a fine(r) set to finish. Plus honing oil.
 
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If you are dry honing it the stones will not last very long so you need multiple sets to remove that much material. So now you will need honing oil and a way to pump it and that makes one hell of a mess. And don’t forget you need to leave a step in the bottom of the bore for the new sleeve to sit on and you will have to cut the top of the sleeve flush with the deck surface. Just my 2 cents. 150 seem like a reasonable price for no head aches and you well.
 
If this is the first time you've ever done this, pay the money and have the shop do it. You are going to have to remove a lot of material for a sleeve and between getting the bore round and controlling the taper (better have a bore gauge) there is a lot of room for a really messed up job. I've seen people go to 0.005 oversize with a hone and even that takes skill and precision.
 
So quite a few people don't think it can be done.....I understand this device design won't taper a bore, and make a nice parallel wall round cylinder. Did I mention that I would buy the stones? Keep the can't be done comments coming.....:p then watch "The world's fastest Indian"
 
I'm not saying it can't be done. I'm saying in my opinion, it is not worth doing it yourself, in turns of time, and material. Hell, I'll lend you my hone, for free. You pay shipping and the stones. Send me a PM
 
mcode said:
The problem you'll have is, that when you drive the sleeve into the block, it will distort the cylinder on either side of it, and you'll need to bore them too.
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Nah just a light hone maybe.
Been there done that a few times.
 
pishta said:
So quite a few people don't think it can be done.....I understand this device design won't taper a bore, and make a nice parallel wall round cylinder. Did I mention that I would buy the stones? Keep the can't be done comments coming.....:p then watch "The world's fastest Indian"
Click to expand...

Just watched the "Trailer" for World's Fastest Indian. Learned how to trim toe nails with an electric drill and a grind stone.

Never Say Never . . .

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upload_2022-6-5_19-29-40.png
 
pishta said:
I want to rent or borrow a 4 stone Sunnen/Lisle 15000 series cylinder hone. The big one with the 4 stones and that weird 1/2" drill forked arbor. Ill buy stones if needed and will send back with new stones. I wanna take a worn 78mm out to <82 to set a sleeve in. Im doing this more for the experience than the need as its an extra block anyway. The other 3 bores are perfect under 97k STD so Im ultimately wanting to hone the <78mm sleeve back to STD and replace the 1 piston and rings. I know its gonna take forever but I got nothing but time for this job. Shop wants $150 for sleeve job. If you think that is cheap, go ahead and Paypal me the money. :p
Click to expand...
I don't think you will be able to take that much material out with a rigid hone.
 
pishta said:
So quite a few people don't think it can be done.....I understand this device design won't taper a bore, and make a nice parallel wall round cylinder. Did I mention that I would buy the stones? Keep the can't be done comments coming.....:p then watch "The world's fastest Indian"
Click to expand...

You want to maintain the position of the bore relative to the block. So if you are hell-bent on doing this, you start at the bottom of the bore where is is the truest and work your way up. You don't start at the top and work your way down. And as far as saying it can't be done....there are many things that can be done but probably shouldn't be.
 
Im starting the ol 2.0 tomorrow with its 1972 head on top and a fresh hone on those old cylinders. I bit the bullet and pulled the 80mm pistons out the top with the motor still in the frame. Checked the bores and they were still parallel, pistons looked good but the walls looked glazed, probably the reason for the blow by so I put a cross hatch hone back on them, took the lightest touch with the 3 leg springer hone and set them back in. The 1.8 head has square exhaust ports instead of my 2.0s round ports so the damn exhaust manifold would not seal over the square so I fashioned a port plate of 2mm AL to fill the overlap of the round manifold and used Super read RTV (highest heat 750F rated). The 1.8 rebuild is back on the back burner but rescuing this block is still gonna need some serious help, ie some sort of filler metal in the pit or a sleeve. Then Ill have to cut a new keyway in the cam gear to compensate for the 1.7mm head face the machine shop took, retarding the cam timing. Seems like alot of work to rebuild a smaller motor...? @Charrlie_S Thanks for the offer. I still may take you up on it but not today.
 
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