340 6 Pak intake
- Thread starter RAT ROD AL
- Start date
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694spd
Well-Known Member
Here is a few pics of the factory original one that I have.
Damn Kim ! Chill out ! Lol. I don't have the intake yet. If I get it, I'll definitely post up some pictures !
This is just like mine, only I have LD6B on it. What do I have?
Woodys_Cuda
Ontario, Canada
You have an early run of the aftermarket Made by Edelbrock. The MP one is the newer aftermarket early 2000's. They all perform the same.
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Thanks for clarifying. The reason i asked the differences was to help with a value and my own curiosity. TO ME, an off the dealer shelf OEM replacement for TA/AAR would be worth more. I realize the functionality is identical between the "variations"
Thanks
Thanks
This was $700. Going to use on a stock stroke 360 with port matched X heads cleaned up with a bowl blend and guide work and FiTech. Still trying to figure out what cam to use.
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K.O. SWINGER
Meeting in the alley since 1976
The six pack is pretty versatile when it comes to camshaft selection with determining factors will still be gear ratio and weight of vehicle is it a four-speed or automatic and stall speed. Match your camshaft to those things plus the X heads and it will run beautifully. Get a camshaft with peak power at around 56 to 6800 and you'll be golden
Notice the OEM intake vs my last round run of the Edelbrock intake. The are to look at is at the bottom of the carb stand where it meets the intake runner. There is machining done there for some reason and it’s overkill. If not ugly. My “MoPar” intake vs an Edelbrock intake vs an OEM should all perform the same. Any variance is in any core shift, which I have not personally seen or heard of or smaller ports that have protruding aluminum. That is when the sand casting is slightly worn away.
The only difference after what is embossed is the price you paid and if any mods were done.
The car is my Dad’s E-body cuda. I am giving him the TKO and driveshaft that is in my 408 E-body (I am going to a T56). His car has a 3.55 rear.
I’m thinking something like a 228 @.050 cam on a 110ish LSA. Dad doesn’t want a terribly roust car. He has a radical 440 to n it now so he’s going in the other direction..
Does he want an easy driver? Something easy to operate with a clutch? The 110 LSA isn't to bad at all, dropping down 4*'s of duration will be more torquey where it counts for a driver. A wider LSA would be easier on the clutch operation. I've driven my 4spd '73 Cuda with a cam on a 108 LSA. Its a small learning curve. Being the cams idle vey differently between a 112 & a 108.
You're going to drill that for fuel injection?
Does FI Ten have a 6 pack set up?
The reasoning for the duration is based on my 408. It has a Procharger on it and it has a 228* @ .050” cam / 114 LSA and it drove great when not under boost with the TKO and hyd. clutch. It’s setup with about 7 lbs of boost. I know it’s a 4” arm in mine but I would like to see what it’ll do with a 3.58” stroke with a 110 LSA.
I have a 340 / 4 speed that I’m about to get running in a duster that has a Comp Cams 224/224 cam / 108LSA so we’ll see how that shakes out.
I like a wider lobe separation. Like you said @rumblefish360 they do come off the clutch nice for a driver.
I totally forgot about that set up. Nice.
That 340 with the 224 cam sounds like a great driver with a nice midrange. The choppy idling cams are a little crappy in traffic/stop & go. They just require a little more throttle. Also, after that 4 inch stroker crank, everything is going to seem like it lacks torque! LOL!
K.O. SWINGER
Meeting in the alley since 1976
Something in the 224 intake at 50 is a very good combo with a carbureted six pack but I'm pretty ignorant when it comes to fuel injection lol I had a 226 intake 232 exhaust on a 110 and that thing was a great combo with a set of 354 rear end gears and 26-in tire.
C
Cool. Thanks for the real world feedback. I think with the FI it’s pretty much equivalent but want more lobe separation. I’m learning too.
Cool. Thanks for the real world feedback. I think with the FI it’s pretty much equivalent but want more lobe separation. I’m learning too.
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I don’t know how the FI-Tec takes to a 110, or less. I had a friend do it on a 110 on his 383. He wasn’t in love with it.
I'd have no problem grinding on an original intake.There is a benefit of having an aftermarket six pack manifold in my opinion and that would be you can port it or modify it without feeling like you're grinding or modifying a original 1970 T/A manifold
It's only original until it reaches my hands. lol
Once I have it it's mine.
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