Slant 6 to 360 Swap

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Nick96

Nick96

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Hey guys. I'm swapping out my slant 6 for a mild 360 this spring and I'm currently allocating all the parts I'll need. I've seen some conflicting stuff on here so let's hash this out right here.

My car is a 1968 Plymouth Valiant Signet 4 Door. I am swapping out the slant 6 and installing a small block la 360.

Will I or will I not need the drop center steering link? I have a guy with a 73 duster he's parting out that has the link, but I'd rather not spend $200 and drive 3 hours there and then another 3 hours back just to find out I don't need it. So again, is it necessary to clear the oil pan or not?

Thanks?
 
I dont know if you need it or not but the usually sell for between $75-$100 on here and pop up pretty often. Also firm feel sells brand new ones but i forget the price.
 
There is a unique v-8 link for the early a's from 64-66, but 67 and on all take the same center link, no need to replace...
 
I kept the link from a V8 parts car. Ended up just reusing my Original slant 6 center link. It's the same part!
 
$200 and 6 hours of driving for a centerlink ?
I'd build a Chebby before I did that.
 
As to the 72 and older Centerlink on a 68 to 72,SBM-K, and a 360 with a car-oilpan, yes it will all fit.
If you're installing TTI headers you might need the 73 up steering stuff.
If you want to install a front sway bar, the 73 up K is a better fit. But then you need the engine brackets too.
On my 68 Barracuda;I used a K from a 70 Duster 340, and steering from a 73Dart, and a Hotckiss front bar that went on OK. And I used the KH 4-piston front brakes from the Duster 340 donor.I was able to make everything fit, but it all took time and fudging.
Give yourself a week or two to get all worked out, and then there is the exhaust.
You'll probably want some bigger T-bars, and HD rear suspension, And you know that 7.25 has to go, and that means the driveshaft too.
The 6-rad will be inadequate next summer, even with a shroud. You'll also need a 7 blade fan and a thermostatic clutch, and a hi-flo pump with a matching stat.You MAY need to upgrade your fuel-system. You'll probably have some issues with the air filter house being too tall to close the hood, so don't forget to remove the hold-down stud out of the carb before you close the hood for the first time.
If you're not bumping up the compression I suggest you stick with the stock cam. Or else you will need a higher than stock stall TC and at least 3.55s. If you leave the factory cam in there, then you can keep the factory TC and whatever gears are in the back. If you peg-leg the 7.25, expect to be calling a tow-truck sooner or later. Everytime you do it,a little damage will occur, and then without warning POOF! Ziiing! and you are walking. It's like an eraser. Every time you use it gives up some life, and in the end it breaks in half, and you throw it all away.
What else? Oh yeah, brakes. Your car will be a lot heavier when done,and capable of double to triple the acceleration rate. So.....brakes should be high on your list of to-dos.
 
AJ/FormS said:
As to the 72 and older Centerlink on a 68 to 72,SBM-K, and a 360 with a car-oilpan, yes it will all fit.
If you're installing TTI headers you might need the 73 up steering stuff.
If you want to install a front sway bar, the 73 up K is a better fit. But then you need the engine brackets too.
On my 68 Barracuda;I used a K from a 70 Duster 340, and steering from a 73Dart, and a Hotckiss front bar that went on OK. And I used the KH 4-piston front brakes from the Duster 340 donor.I was able to make everything fit, but it all took time and fudging.
Give yourself a week or two to get all worked out, and then there is the exhaust.
You'll probably want some bigger T-bars, and HD rear suspension, And you know that 7.25 has to go, and that means the driveshaft too.
The 6-rad will be inadequate next summer, even with a shroud. You'll also need a 7 blade fan and a thermostatic clutch, and a hi-flo pump with a matching stat.You MAY need to upgrade your fuel-system. You'll probably have some issues with the air filter house being too tall to close the hood, so don't forget to remove the hold-down stud out of the carb before you close the hood for the first time.
If you're not bumping up the compression I suggest you stick with the stock cam. Or else you will need a higher than stock stall TC and at least 3.55s. If you leave the factory cam in there, then you can keep the factory TC and whatever gears are in the back. If you peg-leg the 7.25, expect to be calling a tow-truck sooner or later. Everytime you do it,a little damage will occur, and then without warning POOF! Ziiing! and you are walking. It's like an eraser. Every time you use it gives up some life, and in the end it breaks in half, and you throw it all away.
What else? Oh yeah, brakes. Your car will be a lot heavier when done,and capable of double to triple the acceleration rate. So.....brakes should be high on your list of to-dos.
Click to expand...
I know this is a few years old. But dang AJ, thanks for the write up. Do you know if anybody has ever published a check list (step by step), what to do first, etc.? I'm almost done collecting parts and getting ready to do this swap.
 
Norm.P said:
I know this is a few years old. But dang AJ, thanks for the write up. Do you know if anybody has ever published a check list (step by step), what to do first, etc.? I'm almost done collecting parts and getting ready to do this swap.
Click to expand...
IDK about any checklist; but it's pretty straightforward.
 
My 70 Dart originally slant 6, has a 360 apassenger pan on it, no clearance problems
 
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