727 46RH conversion coming

-
Control box is wired and mounted. Notice the vacuum interrupt switch has the normally open contact wired to the pressure switch. This allows the high vacuum to maintain the switch in the closed position until the vacuum drops, as on harder acceleration to pass, allowing the circuit to open and OD/LU to drop out.
Both the OD and LU timed relays are set at 10 seconds each. This eliminates flutter on engagement if the speed/pressure varies around the set pressure. OD comes in 10 seconds after the set speed of 45mph pressure switch contact closes. LU comes in 10 seconds after OD is activated.

FC12F913-0C30-42BD-8E11-0937ED0BA3B3.jpeg
 
Mounted the box to the passenger side air box. Looks like it belongs there and doesn’t take up too much room. Still plenty of space for the passengers feet.

C395A175-7779-4642-A1C6-528DE9153CD3.jpeg
56B8ACB4-6858-45B4-ADAB-E1E2B244661D.jpeg
 
I’ve been shaking it down with some test rides the last couple days and have to say after some minor adjustments it runs and shifts super sweet, both ways. Kicks down perfectly on passing and harder acceleration on hills. Just perfect. I’m really loving it. Huge difference over the 727 it replaced.
 
plumkrazee70 said:
Saweet. Did you get a filter extension, due to your deeper pan?
Click to expand...
That B&M pan came with the tranny and has a spacer. It’s def the lowest thing on the car and I’ve already accidentally scraped it on a speed bump. I’ll have to pay better attention to it.

It was a lot of work but def worth it.
 
67dartgtgo said:
That B&M pan came with the tranny and has a spacer. It’s def the lowest thing on the car and I’ve already accidentally scraped it on a speed bump. I’ll have to pay better attention to it.

It was a lot of work but def worth it.
Click to expand...

Nice. I have a replacement dorman pan for my A500, but it looks deeper than what came off. I'll have to see about getting a extension. I'm getting closer with my install. My cross member is clearanced, so now I can work on cooler lines and switch wiring.
 
67dartgtgo said:
That B&M pan came with the tranny and has a spacer. It’s def the lowest thing on the car and I’ve already accidentally scraped it on a speed bump. I’ll have to pay better attention to it.

It was a lot of work but def worth it.
Click to expand...

Great detailed install. Thank you. The only thing I didn't comprehend was the part about cutting at the bends on the upper crossmember. You did something different than install a plate. Can you explain that to me better?
 
Here’s another good link
US Car Tool A518 Cross member
It shows how the upper crossmember can be left in place and fabricated to remove enough material and be refit to have enough clearance. This is what I did but lots of guys have just cut that section out and replaced it with a good fitting curved piece of flat stock. Doing it this way definitely gets more clearance. Not sure which way has more structural strength but I think it might be just a personal choice. I don’t know where you can get anything premodern to fit the unelected like the lower but you can probably have it done locally if you make a template.
I’m sure you’ve done lots of searches on the google by now. Lots of pictures and info out there to help.
 
67dartgtgo said:
Here’s another good link
US Car Tool A518 Cross member
It shows how the upper crossmember can be left in place and fabricated to remove enough material and be refit to have enough clearance. This is what I did but lots of guys have just cut that section out and replaced it with a good fitting curved piece of flat stock. Doing it this way definitely gets more clearance. Not sure which way has more structural strength but I think it might be just a personal choice. I don’t know where you can get anything premodern to fit the unelected like the lower but you can probably have it done locally if you make a template.
I’m sure you’ve done lots of searches on the google by now. Lots of pictures and info out there to help.
Click to expand...

I like the way that guy did the upper crossmember cut out. took the bottom off like opening a can, removed a lot of the side and put the bottom in it's new closer location. Is that what you did?
 
Dmopower said:
I like the way that guy did the upper crossmember cut out. took the bottom off like opening a can, removed a lot of the side and put the bottom in it's new closer location. Is that what you did?
Click to expand...
Yes ...that’s exactly what I did. Looking for a pic or 2
 
Cutting out the top of the crossmember like that is just a mess and doesn't leave enough metal to do anything. Then welding a section of strap below it is another messy chore that; again, doesn't really afford much stiffening. Just slice out the top completely; everything above the bolt holes by slicing thru the floor from the top; and right above the bolt holes from underneath. Then weld in some strap from the top; flush with the floor; and tacked to it. Finish up with a wider strap over that; welded all the way around it. Then you have a stiff floor. With about a 1/4" bulge if you use 1/8" metal. Barely raises the carpet. Drill some holes in the last strap before installation; so you can weld both straps together.
 
You’ll see after you fab the upper crossmember and mock up the tranny the additional clearancing you might need to do. I wanted to leave the inside bolt locations in tact and the shape of the trans housing really doesn’t allow for a straight vertical transition at all....it just won’t fit with the clearance you’ll need I think.
 
CudaFactHackJob said:
Cutting out the top of the crossmember like that is just a mess and doesn't leave enough metal to do anything. Then welding a section of strap below it is another messy chore that; again, doesn't really afford much stiffening. Just slice out the top completely; everything above the bolt holes by slicing thru the floor from the top; and right above the bolt holes from underneath. Then weld in some strap from the top; flush with the floor; and tacked to it. Finish up with a wider strap over that; welded all the way around it. Then you have a stiff floor. With about a 1/4" bulge if you use 1/8" metal. Barely raises the carpet. Drill some holes in the last strap before installation; so you can weld both straps together.
Click to expand...
Def another way to do it.....be ready to take out your interior and cut your floor.
 
Question for those that have completed this swap. How long of a speedo cable do I need for an A-500 in a 67 Cuda? And what brand cable do you recommend? Thanks guys.
 
Somebody should make a piece of 1/4" steel plate that fits snug up against the floor after the top of the crossmember is cut completely out. Say, about 8" from front to back, and fitting all the way down to bottom of the side stubs. So you'd cut the side members at an angle to match the tunnel, about 45 degrees, and weld the plate to the stubs and to the floor.
 
67dartgtgo,
Where did you get that box to put your relays in? Was going to PM you but your mailbox is full. Thanks.
 
This is the box I used. There’s a complete listing of components on cuda-challenger.com under the thread 727 to A518 swap, a novice guide. Page 8 post 119 from member katfish. I used lots from this list. Special thanks to katfish for all the legwork. sorry I wasn’t able to paste it in a good format here.

https://www.amazon.com/Hammond-Manufacturing-1591VSBK-STYRENE-PLASTIC/dp/B018CQWVJQ

Hammond Manufacturing 1591VSBK STYRENE PLASTIC CASE
4.72”x4.72”x3.8”
 
67dartgttgo,
How's your swap been holding up? Have there been any changes you had to make with your setup?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top