I simply provide information. I've spent a lot of time researching the suspension on these cars and studying the suspension geometry, and I've spent a lot of time driving them too. I've gone through multiple suspension iterations on both of the Mopars I've had on the road, both my Challenger and my Duster have had multiple different components swapped out multiple times for different and better parts. I've run parts from CAP, Firm Feel, Hotchkis, Just Suspension, KYB, Moog, Mopar Performance, Dillinger Chassis, Energy Suspension, Magnumforce, QA1, SPC, Hellwig, Bilstein, AFCO, DoctorDiff, Flaming River, BergmanAutoCraft, Howe Racing and more I can't remember. Some of the manufacturers on that list I would never buy from again, others I will promote every time it comes up, and some I will buy certain parts from but not others. And that's because between my Challenger and my Duster I've driven over 100k year round, all weather, street driven miles. Some of those parts straight up didn't make it, some of them weren't up to snuff, and some of them have held up beautifully. And not all the most expensive parts were the best, the Hotchkis UCA's on my Challenger are a good example. Live and learn.
Since you have a car with a full RMS system and have since gone on to build a car with a torsion bar set up, I'd have to imagine that there was still something lacking about your RMS car? Afterall, if the RMS is the perfect solution, why waste your time doing something different?
Maybe I get a little enthusiastic, or even a little dramatic sometimes. But I was able to put together that list because I've spent over 14 years and over a 100k miles figuring out what works for street handling and what does not. I didn't just write a check to RMS and blindly think I had the best system ever because I spent the most money. I asked the guys that had done this sort of thing, I talked to the vendors that have been doing this the whole time, I read articles, I studied the geometry, and I picked my parts. And I've made some mistakes and I replaced them with better parts.
I'm anything but a traditionalist, I couldn't care less. That's why my '74 /6 Duster is a '71 340 Demon clone with '68 markers and a T56. I built up the torsion bar system on both my Challenger and my Duster because the suspension geometry is better when you make the right modifications. Because the best handling, fastest road course and autoX Mopars still run torsion bars. And it's not really about money for me either. If you count all the different parts I've used and then moved on from and sold I could have bought a couple of RMS's or HDK's. Hell I could buy one tomorrow if I thought they were better than what I've got, I'd write that check no problem. But I will also happily point out that you CAN build a torsion bar system up that will perform just as well or better for LESS money.
That latest list I posted exists because you refused to believe me until I literally created an itemized list showing you that you can build up a torsion bar suspension for LESS money than an HDK. The list speaks for itself, I'm not sure how you managed to spend so much on that torsion bar set up you've got. The Viper brakes are spendy but I managed to get a set for about $200 more than the Wilwoods on your RMS. And yeah, I know how a computer works, why wouldn't I have a file with all the best parts linked and ready to go? Most of them are on the list of parts I have on my own car, and yeah, I have a list to keep track.
If you don't like my advice you don't have to take it.
Nail on the head Peter. People buy the coil-over conversions because they're a nice, sexy package that takes care of everything. Shortest, easiest distance between their project that handles like a 50 year old barge to something workable.
You have a great collection of products, if you made it a single kit style product I'm sure you would sell them. I love all the stuff I've bought from you, and although I don't recommend everything you sell you definitely have some of the premier stuff out there.
