Who has painted their engine with a spray gun?

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Kern Dog

Kern Dog

Build your car to handle.
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Since I have my engine out for a rebuild, I'm thinking of painting it with a catalyzed paint from a spray gun. Despite good prep, my engines seem to peel a little in some areas so I thought that better quality paint might stick longer.
The spray can stuff is cheap and anyone can paint with it. The lack of a hardener means that the shine often fades in a few years. It would be great to have this engine look great for more than a few years.
 
Above my Pay grade.. I'd hit the Local Bodyshop Paint Supplier and ask them what they recommend... and of course, Clean, Clean, Clean Baby! Do they make a High Heat Self Etching Primer?
 
we used epoxy primer and s high solids single stage urathane paint out of a gun got the motor in the dart. painted it in 2015 and still looks as good as the day we painted it. we have done quite a few motors the same way and all have held up very well.
 
abodyjoe, thats exactly how ive done mine, perfect results and long lasting. Ironracer is also correct about cleaning, i will never use a rattle can again...good luck with yours and cant wait to see it when its done...Rich
 
I recently sprayed mine with cheap rustoleum out of a spray gun and jap drier for a hardener but this is by no means a show car its just for a farm truck but it will be interesting to see if it holds up looks good for now.
I would defiantly use a higher quality automotive paint for something nice i wouldn't worry about the high heat so much as cars get pretty hot in the sun and it doesn't burn off
 
Kern Dog said:
Since I have my engine out for a rebuild, I'm thinking of painting it with a catalyzed paint from a spray gun. Despite good prep, my engines seem to peel a little in some areas so I thought that better quality paint might stick longer.
The spray can stuff is cheap and anyone can paint with it. The lack of a hardener means that the shine often fades in a few years. It would be great to have this engine look great for more than a few years.
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If you are going for an O.E. Type resto you may be stuck with painting the engine as an assembly. I clean, prep, prime in some cases, and paint every engine component separately . No painted over bolts or gasket surfaces. Just because the factory did it doesn’t mean it’s right..!! They do hold up much longer for me this way. A lot of it has to do with the use of the car. A daily or a car that see’s a lot of weather sure show it faster…Swingn’
 
I used PPG DP 40 primer then sprayed with Engine paint from Summit. Not spray bomb. Been 3 years now no issues. Just a driver.
KBS Coatings 60338 KBS Motor Coater Engine Enamels | Summit Racing

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I used Mopar brand spray cans.

Pressure washed, wire brushed, and "Easy-Offed" several times.

I think I remember 3 thin coats.

That was in 2015 and there's no peeling, fading, or wear.

The chemical composition of that paint is definitely different.
It has a very unique smell.
 
I think finding the proper paint and color by the quart is the key. Spray can's are easy to find and use.
 
I am by no means an expert, but I have been painting for about 40 years. This is how I do it. Maybe some overkill!
1. There is no such thing as TOO CLEAN! Specially with engines. Protect the engine from water getting inside places you would not want, then clean it thoroughly. I have always just used an assortment of brushes with hot soapy water. Get down in every nook and cranny. When it is absolutely clean, blow as much water off as possible, and towel dry the rest.
2. You DO need to spray some primer on it. Like @abodyjoe I like to use epoxy primer. Spray two coats of epoxy primer AFTER wiping the engine down with your favorite brand of pre-paint solvent (I really like Pre from Eastwood) and blowing it off to get rid of any dust. Follow the directions for your brand of epoxy for how long until it can be sanded. Then I scuff the engine with a green scuff pad for good mechanical adhesion. Make sure you get in every nook and cranny. Wipe the engine down with pre-paint solvent and blow it off. Now you are ready for paint.
3. Masking is the same as for using rattle cans. I REALLY like the 2K engine paints from Eastwood. They spray on beautifully, and they dry so shiny, you honestly can't tell when they are dry. I use my Devilbiss primer gun with a 1.5 tip. I spray on one light tack coat followed by two wet coats. I sprayed my 340 about 8 years ago and it still looks great.
#NO RATTLE CANS.
 
It works great if you prep well.

An engine block is typically 195-220 degrees. You can bake paint at 350 degrees.

Clear coat isn't damaged by oil.
 
Kern Dog said:
Since I have my engine out for a rebuild, I'm thinking of painting it with a catalyzed paint from a spray gun. Despite good prep, my engines seem to peel a little in some areas so I thought that better quality paint might stick longer.
The spray can stuff is cheap and anyone can paint with it. The lack of a hardener means that the shine often fades in a few years. It would be great to have this engine look great for more than a few years.
Click to expand...

Haven't tried it but you mention lack of hardener...I did use the matte clear inside wheel wells.

Eastwood 2K.

Color selection is limited

https://www.eastwood.com/2k-aerospray-high-temp-ceramic-engine-paint.html
 
Pretty much the only way I do it anymore. I use Nason single stage on top of etching primer. Way more durable than the rattle can crap but too shinny for the correct factory look but I don't care about that.
For the orange I do EV2 without the yellow metal flake.
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upload_2022-6-9_6-45-1.jpeg

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Kern Dog said:
Since I have my engine out for a rebuild, I'm thinking of painting it with a catalyzed paint from a spray gun. Despite good prep, my engines seem to peel a little in some areas so I thought that better quality paint might stick longer.
The spray can stuff is cheap and anyone can paint with it. The lack of a hardener means that the shine often fades in a few years. It would be great to have this engine look great for more than a few years.
Click to expand...
First get all the old paint and primer off the engine.
Surface perp is crucial to sucsess if you think you have it clean check it with a clean white cloth, and do it again. The best degreaser paint prep bar none is VM&P Naphtha. Wear gloves and eye protection, vent with a fan.
Scuff all aluminum and machined surface's.
I use Von Sickle implament paint and their hardner, its a high solids paint, very durable and it is very reasonablely priced. No primier required

New paint1.jpg
 
I don't have the tools for a paint gun application. Spray bomb Plastikote Chrysler Industrial Red engine enamel. After 10+ years it is still holding up well. A clean and dry surface is the key.

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To get the engine clean you might consider dry ice blasting. There are mobile units that can come to you.

 
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