Who has painted their engine with a spray gun?

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I used the eastwood red engine paint on my 65 Dart 273. It turned out pretty good I didn’t use all the eastwood prep stuff they recommend. After about 5 years it looks good still some peeling spots. Dustin
 
toolmanmike said:
I think finding the proper paint and color by the quart is the key. Spray can's are easy to find and use.
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Exact color isn't an issue. I have aluminum heads and intake so it will be just the short block that gets paint.
 
For over 40 years I've used every rattle can paint out there. VHT, Plastic Coat. Mopar, etc, etc. The fact of the matter is that rattle can paint doesn't have nearly solids that mixed paint does and no hardeners.
A friend turned me onto this years ago and it was like OMG this is sooooooooooo much better. Also get much better coverage from a gun. Even a good enamel from a gun is much better but I really like the urethane stuff.
 
here is the first one we did.. sure wasn't spotless but using brake clean and a sctochbrite pad i got it as clean as possible... went on ans held up great.

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Dana67Dart said:
To get the engine clean you might consider dry ice blasting. There are mobile units that can come to you.

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This process is amazing. YOu should also see what they do under your car and with the suspension.
 
primer and paint we used..

here is the color we used.. while i wouldn't use it on a 100 point show car because it probably isn't "correct" color wise i thought it was close enough for us.. some light it looks way more red then others it looks more orange.

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The only way to go, it cleans up nice and never gets dull. I don’t use any primer on the cast parts, never have. You can still see the cast surfaces, they are not clogged with paint.

If you need to smooth out pitting or dings on the valve covers and oil pan I use DP epoxy sealer over it.
 
Like said above, I too have used EVERY brand of rattle can for engines, including Mopar. Some brands seem to have more solid than others...some..maybe.
There is no way to get the same results from a rattle can as from the auto urethane with hardner. I say there is a difference. I use rattle cans IF I am building me a driver, don't care and don't want to fool with the time and expense to order from the auto paint supplier. I am not a fancy guy.
The average Mopar guy buying a done or sorta done car, I have found over the decades, he wants a $10,000 perfect paint job for $1000 or less. He wants a $20,000 perfect car for $7000. So I make my cars to suit me and give a chit IF I sell.
If I don't want to drive 3 hours to the auto paint store, I order thru TCP Global. Epoxy and clear thru Southern Poly urethanes.
 
I sprayed mine with a small touch up gun. Self etching primer then enamel paint with hardener.

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KBS Coatings, no primer needed, looks great and will last, we have also had good results with POR 15 engine paint. Shot out of a gun with primer tip.

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moparmarks said:
Pretty much the only way I do it anymore. I use Nason single stage on top of etching primer. Way more durable than the rattle can crap but too shinny for the correct factory look but I don't care about that.
For the orange I do EV2 without the yellow metal flake.
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You can always ad some flattening agent to the paint to get the right amount of dullness if it has too much shine
 
Rattle can don't match anyway these days.
I tried to spray my /6 a few months ago with por 15 engine paint and I don't know if it was because I had an old pint of their engine paint or if that's just how it is but the spray came out and laid on almost transparent. After 3 coats the freeze plugs were still silver. I'd had that paint here for 5-6 years though it was on a shelf in a closet in the house so I know it never froze. As much as I like the other por paint products and as well as they have treated me in the past I can't recommend their engine paint.
Next time I will buy a fresh can, and I will try either bill Hirsch engine paint or the KBS stuff. I have used the KBS hi temp manifold paint on this same slant 6 build, and I really like how that turned out.
I went to the paint shop looking for por version but they were out.
I've used kbs chassis paint as well as por 15 version and can't really tell any difference. So we'll see.

On that /6 that I sprayed mopar blue, what paint did get on there looks to be stuck but good, if it weren't for the poor coverage I'd have been happy.
I ended up spraying over the por 15 with duplicolor rattle can. Just to get it done as I was painting it on a Sunday.
 
That said, I will definitely paint my next engine with a spray gun, if I can find the right paint that does as advertised
 
When I was in the middle of painting that /6 and decided it wasn't working, every place sorta close that sold por 15 or kbs products was closed. Eastwood was open, they're about an hour away. They didn't have anything in 70s Chrysler blue. They'd have had to order it which did me no good in the middle of a job. So I wound up finishing with duplicolor as that was all that I could get at the time.
 
All of these freshly painted engines look great, but how about posting some photos of them once they have a ton of miles on them. That's more important, isn't it?
 
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