Burn out issues

What happens inside the bellhousing is key to bringing the engine and chassis together as an efficient package. Most chassis adjustments revolve around what the clutch or converter does, so it makes sense to get the clutch in the ballpark first before moving on to other things.

Far easier to tune that clutch if you just throw away the weights and then put just enough spring in it to hold after shifting into high gear. From there use one of my ClutchTamers to dial in the amount of slip you need during launch. Eliminates the centrifugal vs base balancing act, makes adjusting the clutch much less of a guessing game.
......if it slips too much or not enough going into high gear, you know you need to adjust the springs.
......if it slips too much or not enough during launch, you dial that in with the 'tamer from the driver's seat.

You end up with a clutch that allows you to launch from 7200 or higher on a poor surface without knocking the tires loose, also less wear/tear/adjusting on your Lenco's clutch packs. No need to change the setup for "good" prep, as the clutch is already optimized to let the engine sing at the top of its lungs with a dead hooked chassis.

The above setup has been in winner's circle at NHRA's US Nats, allows you to take advantage of higher launch rpm without knocking the tires loose. There's 86% more stored energy available for launch if you can stick 7500 vs settling for 5500. NHRA's prep guys love 'tamers because they "don't rip the **** out of the track". Your tires will last longer too, you might even want to try radials :)

Grant